Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

M35 DIY turbo replacement

Hi all, 

Apologies for creating a new thread but I can't for the life of me find any DIY threads for replacing a blown turbo on the VQ25.

Funnily enough the threads I have found refer OP to the search function. 

I understand a few owners have had to go through this heartache but has anyone documented it for use on this forum?

Keen to grab an M35 and want to research turbo replacement as it's going to need it sometime down the track but sale depends mostly on ease of replacing this critical part.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/468871-m35-diy-turbo-replacement/
Share on other sites

Here is a swap I did over 5 years ago.

https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/352166-m35-engine-and-turbo-out/

Its a fun job that I personally would only do once so never again. 

Some owners love swapping there turbos out.

  • Like 1
  • 3 weeks later...

Have just been unfortunate enough to have replaced the turbo on my M35. It is definitely diy able but by no means an easy job. Patience is the key. What makes it difficult, is the lack of access to the dump pipe/t3 flange bolts. The bolts are more than likely rusty and fused on. Each bolt takes quite a while to remove because of this.

You will need a jack, stands/ramps or hoist, wd40, inox or penetrine etc to spray the bolts with and let soak overnight (i used chemsearch yield) worked brilliantly. A range of extensions, uni swivels for your ratchet, long spanners, shorty spanners, an obstruction style 14mm spanner helps with dump pipe bolts as well, a 22mm spanner for the 02 sensor. A couple of brake line clamps to clamp the coolant feeds so you don't have to dump the coolant. You may have to make or bend a spanner to remove one of the heat shield bolts or smash it off. You will need to remove the front pipe, brackets, disconnect the gear shifter and then unbolt the gearbox cross member and lower transmission to give you access to dump pipe bolts. If you've removed turbos before you will eventually get there, if you haven't, it's not the car to learn on. Just pay someone else to do it and save yourself the headaches.

lol......after doing about 30 of these I can tell you its a different experience everytime. I think the fastest I ever did one was 5hrs......the slowest was about 18hrs. You could never guess which one was to make you its little b@#ch.....the only thing that was always consistent were the little cuts all over your hands and arms. I ended up with 2 draws of my toolbox that was specific to the NM35 turbo change.

 

Glad you had fun....and I'm glad I will never touch another NM35 for the rest of my life!

19 minutes ago, Jetwreck said:

lol......after doing about 30 of these I can tell you its a different experience everytime. I think the fastest I ever did one was 5hrs......the slowest was about 18hrs. You could never guess which one was to make you its little b@#ch.....the only thing that was always consistent were the little cuts all over your hands and arms. I ended up with 2 draws of my toolbox that was specific to the NM35 turbo change.

 

Glad you had fun....and I'm glad I will never touch another NM35 for the rest of my life!

Bullshit you still owe me a turbo change :P

lol......after doing about 30 of these I can tell you its a different experience everytime. I think the fastest I ever did one was 5hrs......the slowest was about 18hrs. You could never guess which one was to make you its little b@#ch.....the only thing that was always consistent were the little cuts all over your hands and arms. I ended up with 2 draws of my toolbox that was specific to the NM35 turbo change.

 

Glad you had fun....and I'm glad I will never touch another NM35 for the rest of my life!

Lol, sounds like fond memories. I wouldn't touch another one either unless it's mine. Believe it or not, no cuts on my hands but elbows took a beating. Definitely the shittest job I've ever done on a car, actually timing belt and supplementary auxiliary drive system on an import diesel Toyota estima was almost just as bad.

 

P.s I put a used stock turbo in it, may need to be done again soon. I'll bring it over to you[emoji1]

 

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I agree on doing some better than factory pistons, rods, and oil pump. For anyone using the vehicle on the road, I don't get why everyone wants big cams. The stock cam profile, with some more lift would be mint for road usage. Everyone going big cams and then wondering why it isn't as responsive in traffic, when they've shifted the torque curve upwards an additional 1000RPM. Make torque, at lower RPM. Sure it's not as cool as claiming "500KW" and revving it to 8,0000RPM, but that same torque 2,000RPM earlier... Then you don't need the extremely high end pistons and rods, and blah blah blah.
    • Personal experience. Those f**kers burn. And are actually a PITA to put out. Next time I walk down the back, I'll snap a photo of what the inside of the bonnet looks like when that thing ignites. PS, powder fire extinguishers are useless on that stuff too as it's fibrous and when it ignites, it starts to pull apart. And you end up just blowing powder through a sieve effectively.   Like the big thing is, if it's fire resistant, it's job is to stop what burning? The METAL above it? It's just to try keep heat off the bonnet paint work.
    • Oh man, sorry, $60.00000000... 😛
    • That's more or less what he meant. What it really means is that you do not have to go full crazy on the build. Don't need the best oil pump, expensive rods & pistons, big cams, etc. You can upgrade whatever you want instead of using stock level items, but you don't have to. Having said that - any time an RB is opened up, if anything is getting replaced, I think the opportunity should be taken to do all the sensible upgrades. Pistons, rods, pump, etc.
    • February update 🙂 We managed to get the very last 1/18th "Extra Scale" cars stock available from bookstores in Kyoto. These are actually the last ones and will not be restocked again! Hachette Collections Japan have not decided on a release date for these or other models in the series, so for the time being these are all there are available new.  These are showing up on Yahoo auctions at inflated prices already (especially the Celica and NSX) so get yours now at a very reasonable price before they disappear! Stock quantities: NA1 Honda NSX - 1 left: https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/1-18-extra-scale-1990-na1-honda-nsx 1973 Toyota Celica LB 2000GT - 2 left: https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/1-18-extra-scale-1973-toyota-celica-lb-2000gt 1968 Mazda Cosmo Sport - 2 left: https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/1-18-extra-scale-1968-mazda-cosmo-sport 1970 KPGC10 Nissan Skyline 2000GT-R - 2 left: https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/1-18-extra-scale-1970-kpgc10-nissan-skyline-2000gt-r
×
×
  • Create New...