Oil - RB26

[admS15]

I use Motul 300V and unlike apparently most of you I change it after 20,000km (including track days). I have sent samples for oil analysis and the results have suggested there is no reason to change it more often.

Kiwi, over what time frame is the 20k done. oil companies used to tell us oil loses its viscosity after 6 months, now with synthetic they say 12. Wondering if your analysis proves it can keep for longer.

[Deza3000]

31 minutes ago, MrStabby said:

I like that you dont throw away expensive oil that's in good condition. There should be more of this good sense.

See the attached. The Oil may be in "good condition" but its only good for the intended application which is track days. The data sheet on Motuls website states 300v is intended for track-GT-Rally (short distance race) use. This in my opinion would mean it provides worse protection than conventional fully synthetic oils (i.e. castrol, penrite or even motul 8100) on road use. Thats just my theory anyway based on the technical data sheet.

track days = 300v --> Fully synthetic
Road use = Everything else --> 300v

300V_Trophy_0W-40_(GB).pdf

[GodziRRa]

Since it's not mentioned, I just like to add that 15W50 is one of the most popular oil viscosity choice among GT-R owners around the world. I even remember in GTROC U.K, there was a poll back then, 15W50 came on top, followed by 10W60. GT-R's RB26 is high revving so they like these kinds of "thick" oil. Nismo in fact, has these oils recommended for the RB26. Nismo competition oil 15W50 and Nismo RB26 oil 10W60. The 10W60 is more of the street / track performance one, while the 15W50 is more like the 300V, a race oil.

Also an Evo (CT9A) driver here, and I can tell, these boys has different taste when it come to their oil. 

Here's the Nismo 10W60 RB26 oil BTW.

Edited October 2, 2017 by GodziRRa

[niZmO_Man]

I've had no issues with Penrite Premium 5 (5W-60) and Racing 10 (10W-40), even after overheating a few times.

[djr81]

Its like a competition to see who can spend the most on engine oil.  If it is synthetic it will be more than good enough.  When the RB26 came out (Back in the olden days - 1989) Nissan only ever recommended a semi synthetic oil.  The worst synthetic you can buy now is going to be much better than that.

But yeah spend up on pretty coloured boxes and marketing.  Or just buy what's on special.

As an aside Penrite promises to have loads on zinc in it which is no bad thing.

[mick-r34gtt-]

Motul 300v chrono... and a baffled sump... ya pay for quality..

[GodziRRa]

Yup, it’s different strokes for different folks, people will believe what they wanna. But I must disagree it’s just about those pretty packages. Remember, those old Porsches, Ferraris, etc. are also not into pure synthetics back in the day. But nowadays, that’s what they recommend for their old models too. Oil technology have gone very far now, anything that gives optimum performance, and will prolonging engine life will be the one recommended. 

I agree with mick, "ya pay for quality". Because at the end of the day, better quality = more cost. As the saying goes, and this is a car enthusiast favorite, you get what you paid for. ?

Edited October 3, 2017 by GodziRRa

[niZmO_Man]

I ran Mobil 1 full syn 10W-40 or whatever in my old RB20DET, engine became noisier after about 3,000km of daily driving. Dumped it and put Penrite HPR10, was quiet ever since, and saved myself $20 a bottle. Engine is still going in another car I believe.

So yeah, marketing.