r32 gtr country roads performance

[dave123456789]

r32 gtr country roads performance

hi guys,

 

car handles like crap on country roads. feels like its trying to throw me off the road all the time. the road is in ok condition for a rural road and I have taken may cars for a thrash through it as I used to live there. last weekend took the r32 gtr out there and found I couldn't reach the speeds my old Toyota starlet could hit in certain points as it felt like my car was trying to kill me. even on the straights it would feel like its trying to throw me into the oncoming lane or into the trees.

car is lowered on bilstein shocks and unknown springs, ride isn't slammed, still a finger gap between tyre and guard. suspension isn't crazy stiff either, I had an old ae86 with 8kg front 6kg rear and on this road handled beautifully and was damn quick through the corners and road a lot harsher than the gtr. I also expected bilstein shocks would be awesome but so far doesn't inspire much confidence.

on a smooth motorway its fine but I prefer country roads for a bit of fun.

 

where do I start?

[niZmO_Man]

Rip that suspension out and put in some MCA blues. I bet those Bilsteins aren't valved for your country roads.

[Duncan]

well....you start with checking the wheel alignment. If they don't find something wrong make sure you get a print out of the before and after settings and maybe post them up here to see what anyone can spot.

nothing wrong with bilstein shocks as such for this use, so their age and valving is a question (although you may not know their history). Also springs; what colour? Do they have any markings? what is the gap between the middle of the wheel and the guard front and rear?

Are you sure all bushes are in good condition? common points of wear are the front castor rod bushes, upper arm bushes, front and rear steering inner rack ends and rear steering ball joints. The last in particular can make driving interesting....

[GTSBoy]

HICAS can also participate in your attempted murder.  Either through fault or wear....as Duncan said.

[Dobz]

+1 for check alignment. 

Does it feel like the car is trying to pull the steering wheel from your hands when you travel over bumps and undulations?

[dave123456789]

15 hours ago, Duncan said:

well....you start with checking the wheel alignment. If they don't find something wrong make sure you get a print out of the before and after settings and maybe post them up here to see what anyone can spot.

nothing wrong with bilstein shocks as such for this use, so their age and valving is a question (although you may not know their history). Also springs; what colour? Do they have any markings? what is the gap between the middle of the wheel and the guard front and rear?

Are you sure all bushes are in good condition? common points of wear are the front castor rod bushes, upper arm bushes, front and rear steering inner rack ends and rear steering ball joints. The last in particular can make driving interesting....

im going to go get it aligned this weekend or next when I have some free to see if that fixes the problem. I will post a print out.

I have no idea about the shocks history, they don't look severely aged though. springs are a black color, will need to have a look for markings. car isn't excessively slammed either. will report back about bushes. I have been under the car a few times any previously nothing looked out of the ordinary. its a very clean good condition car with low mileage.

14 hours ago, Dobz said:

+1 for check alignment.

Does it feel like the car is trying to pull the steering wheel from your hands when you travel over bumps and undulations?

not really, I know what tram lining feels like and it isn't the same as that, its more the car is squiggly if you can understand, squirming all over the place. have to use a lot of steering input to get it straight at speed on an average surface.

[GH05T]

could be excess toe out.

could be loose bushes. shit it could be soo many things. i had a steering rack loose on one car i drove, that was interesting.

but normal operating bilsteins should not be trying to kill you, something i broken or wrong.

[niZmO_Man]

Worn steering rack bushes are fun.
BTW I completely missed the bit where OP said it wasn't stable. HICAS for sure lol.

Get into the boot, on the driver's side there's a small computer, unplug the smaller of the two plugs.

[dave123456789]

1 hour ago, niZmO_Man said:

Worn steering rack bushes are fun.
BTW I completely missed the bit where OP said it wasn't stable. HICAS for sure lol.

Get into the boot, on the driver's side there's a small computer, unplug the smaller of the two plugs.

if I unplug that what will happen? wont I have rear wheels going all over the show?

hicas lights all work fine on the dash, can hear the pump prime for 5 seconds or so when you turn the key. car is a 1994 model, just done over 80ks.

 

so far its going to be wheel alignment, check play in bushes as per Duncans post and hope its better. kinda ruins the fun when you cant enjoy it. didn't buy the car for 60k an hour commuting.

[GTSBoy]

55 minutes ago, dave123456789 said:

if I unplug that what will happen? wont I have rear wheels going all over the show?

hicas lights all work fine on the dash, can hear the pump prime for 5 seconds or so when you turn the key. car is a 1994 model, just done over 80ks.

 

so far its going to be wheel alignment, check play in bushes as per Duncans post and hope its better. kinda ruins the fun when you cant enjoy it. didn't buy the car for 60k an hour commuting.

 

Let's deal with those top two one line at a time.

First, if you unplug it HICAS will go into fault, lock up the rear rack in the centre position, and you won't get a dash light.  Cheap and easy way to stop HICAS from attempting to send you into the weeds.

Second, HICAS lights not on the dash means nothing  Some twat may have taken the globe out years ago.  There is no HICAS pump.  It runs from the power steering.  The noise you hear is either the fuel pump or ATESSA.  Not same-same.

 

[dave123456789]

28 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

 

Let's deal with those top two one line at a time.

First, if you unplug it HICAS will go into fault, lock up the rear rack in the centre position, and you won't get a dash light.  Cheap and easy way to stop HICAS from attempting to send you into the weeds.

Second, HICAS lights not on the dash means nothing  Some twat may have taken the globe out years ago.  There is no HICAS pump.  It runs from the power steering.  The noise you hear is either the fuel pump or ATESSA.  Not same-same.

 

Ok I am going to try that as that will eliminate one possibility. Wont be able to head out for a good test drive till the weekend though.

Ah I understand now. Thought that was the hicas pump priming.

Is it possible to fix the hicas or is it a bin it once its faulty situation?

[GTSBoy]

It may be possible to fix the HICAS, but seeing as it is a stupid f**king system, you should do what everyone else does and fit a HICAS DELETE kit and drive away happy.

[niZmO_Man]

5 hours ago, dave123456789 said:

if I unplug that what will happen? wont I have rear wheels going all over the show?

 

It stop the system from trying to use the rear steering. It stopped my car from trying to kill me (would randomly 'kick' and sway). Another thing I experienced, when my alternator was dying, low voltage caused the HICAS computer to keep "restarting" and would 'kick' the steering violently.

[Nismo 3.2ish]

On 07/02/2017 at 2:38 PM, dave123456789 said:

r32 gtr country roads performance

hi guys,

 

car handles like crap on country roads. feels like its trying to throw me off the road all the time. the road is in ok condition for a rural road and I have taken may cars for a thrash through it as I used to live there. last weekend took the r32 gtr out there and found I couldn't reach the speeds my old Toyota starlet could hit in certain points as it felt like my car was trying to kill me. even on the straights it would feel like its trying to throw me into the oncoming lane or into the trees.

car is lowered on bilstein shocks and unknown springs, ride isn't slammed, still a finger gap between tyre and guard. suspension isn't crazy stiff either, I had an old ae86 with 8kg front 6kg rear and on this road handled beautifully and was damn quick through the corners and road a lot harsher than the gtr. I also expected bilstein shocks would be awesome but so far doesn't inspire much confidence.

on a smooth motorway its fine but I prefer country roads for a bit of fun.

 

where do I start?

Had a similar problem, mainly on straight country roads that are pretty bad, ruts being the worst but not bad on the twisty bits.

First time I gunned it, it pulled very hard to the left towards the trees and gully, oh and cows . It would go left or right depending on the road surface. Had to check the undies when I got home.  

The back end was all over the place under power through the gears, I thought that was normal with a lot of power but Paul and Micko said, no way it is dangerous and said to get the work below done, Pussies , lol

Went with the MCA X-Cs and kept it legal height, then had "ALL" of the bushes changed , plus new rear camber arms, still have to do a final alignment.

Car is much better now, still tramlines but not as bad,  the back end is much more stable now . Just wants to hurt me now , not kill me , well

I was told at Heasman the wider the tyres the more it will tram-line on crappy road surfaces , mine are 265s. Never any trouble at all on the Freeway etc.

[dave123456789]

7 hours ago, Nismo 3.2ish said:

Had a similar problem, mainly on straight country roads that are pretty bad, ruts being the worst but not bad on the twisty bits.

First time I gunned it, it pulled very hard to the left towards the trees and gully, oh and cows . It would go left or right depending on the road surface. Had to check the undies when I got home.  

The back end was all over the place under power through the gears, I thought that was normal with a lot of power but Paul and Micko said, no way it is dangerous and said to get the work below done, Pussies , lol

Went with the MCA X-Cs and kept it legal height, then had "ALL" of the bushes changed , plus new rear camber arms, still have to do a final alignment.

Car is much better now, still tramlines but not as bad,  the back end is much more stable now . Just wants to hurt me now , not kill me , well

I was told at Heasman the wider the tyres the more it will tram-line on crappy road surfaces , mine are 265s. Never any trouble at all on the Freeway etc.

Thanks for your input. Sounds exactly like my issue but I'm confident its not a tramlining issue, I'm running 265s. I have a suspicious looking tie rod in the rear which I doubt is helping and although the bushes look ok they have probably been there since the car was new. I have also notice the rear is a bit wiggly when accelerating hard, isn't a traction issue it just wallows around a bit. I'm also only putting out no where near your power, I'm probably not much more than stock.

 

my plan of attack for this is hicas eliminator kit, all new bushing in rear including sub frame then go from there. Will do front bushings at a later date.

 

will report back with hopefully positive news!

[Nismo 3.2ish]

14 hours ago, dave123456789 said:

Thanks for your input. Sounds exactly like my issue but I'm confident its not a tramlining issue, I'm running 265s. I have a suspicious looking tie rod in the rear which I doubt is helping and although the bushes look ok they have probably been there since the car was new. I have also notice the rear is a bit wiggly when accelerating hard, isn't a traction issue it just wallows around a bit. I'm also only putting out no where near your power, I'm probably not much more than stock.

 

my plan of attack for this is hicas eliminator kit, all new bushing in rear including sub frame then go from there. Will do front bushings at a later date.

 

will report back with hopefully positive news!

Mine caused traction loss , once the bushes in the sub frame etc were done it was not only more stable but I did not loose traction as bad. it was that bad it was like the clutch was letting go once full boost came on and it would rev out in a flash through 1,2 and 3rd , if the road surface was a bit off it would also do it in 4th. This does not happen now

All the best with the problem. Keep us updated .