Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Looks like it was too hot when you sprayed, the powder is paint that has had the thinners used to transport it out of the can and onto the part evaporate on exposure to air, and dry out the paint.  This makes a powder that mixes with the rest of the paint and goes clumpy like that.

Try and spray in the shade in an area with minimal wind. Also before you start spraying let the can sit in some hot water for a couple mins then shake the can for a minute before spraying.

Do a couple of light coats, then do heavier coats. I used a whole 2 cans for 4 calipers and had a small amount left over for 4 brake rotors. Ended up doing like 8 coats all up for the calipers.20170129_210945.jpeg

My top 3 least favourite DIY's on the car:

  1. Removing steel sleeved bushes
  2. Sorting electrical gremlins
  3. Painting parts

I've done 2 sets of wheels (Just Don't Do It) and my roof and boot lip wings and they're never perfect. I reckon beyond what others have said above, you really need an enclosed indoor space with minimal dust and airflow to get a decent finish. I've done most of my painting outside and the amount of dust and bugs and crap in the air is just amazing, not really conducive to a great result.

Also body shops use ovens to cure the paint at the correct temperature, to achieve a good finish and seal especially for the clear coat. Very hard to do at home.

Try and spray in the shade in an area with minimal wind. Also before you start spraying let the can sit in some hot water for a couple mins then shake the can for a minute before spraying.

Do a couple of light coats, then do heavier coats. I used a whole 2 cans for 4 calipers and had a small amount left over for 4 brake rotors. Ended up doing like 8 coats all up for the calipers.20170129_210945.thumb.jpeg.632ce7ba500a7ab6be072fce4ca28091.jpeg


Looks good. Did u prime it first? Looks like it's clear coated.
I'm just going to prime then paint mine that's it


Looks good. Did u prime it first? Looks like it's clear coated.
I'm just going to prime then paint mine that's it

Nahh i didnt prime or clear coat. I used the vht gloss black caliper paint. For prep i just sanded, used brake clean and followed with wax and grease remover. The vht caliper paint label didn't say anything about primer so i assumed you dont need it.

Here's a better pic, a bit dirty though.
20170209_223430.jpeg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • They see me rollin' they hatin'....... Took me most of the day to make the necessary mods to the mounts to make them fit the car.  Fortunately I was able to just use the mounts that came with the rotisserie. The rear ones are really secure, the front I feel i might reinforce a bit more as it doesn't seem like enough attachment to the vehicle. I'm sure it's fine but better to be safe than (extremely...) sorry.  I drilled and tapped thread into additional M12 holes to each car mount where it attaches to the rotisserie as an extra fail-safe. Without them the side to side movement is just restricted by the allen head pinch bolts, nothing actually goes though the beam. Does now! I still need to adjust the rotisserie to get the car centred in terms of centre of gravity. If it's too high or too low relative to the rotational centre line of the car, it will be like a turtle and roll onto its back or as it currently sits, I dont think I'd be able to rotate it as it sits as it needs to lift the whole car up as it rotates. Ain't happening... I'm going to be nervous as hell the first time I go to spin it on its side...    
    • Oh yes done this when the window started flopping around.  Turns out the guides that run along the rail chanel had crumbed way. Took off the door card and pulled out the window mech, then the window, which you have to pull out through the top. As said unbolt the guide rail and don't spend 30 minutes getting frustrated trying to find a way to slide it out upwards cause that don't frigging work. Drop it down and out through the door hole. All I did to repair it was slice some 10mm clear plastic tube, vertically, then screw it to the guide rail both sides. This tubing rolls inward on both sides and leaves a gap wide enough to hold the window. To finish all I did was lube the plastic tube with olive oil and Bob's your uncle . . . well if he has the operation he can be your Aunt ! !  10 bucks in plastic tube and another 5 minute job done again . . . . YEH BULLSH#T ! My love for Skylines knows no bounds !
    • So was there a solution to this problem? I’m having this issue now. 
    • not expensive, just irreplaceable if you don't go sub 60 at wakie in that thing people will start talking
    • I haven't replaced that, but I have had the doors apart on the r32 a couple of times The door skin will be held on by a combination of clips and bolts, just take it slowly and make sure all the sneaky hidden bolts are out Once the skin is off you should be able to pop that piece off pretty easily, looks like there are only 2 bolts holding it on
×
×
  • Create New...