Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 GTS-T - Headlight Permanently On

32_love

By 32_love,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

32_love Collaborator

32_love

Posted
Posted
R32 GTS-T - Headlight Permanently On

Last Friday, when I was leaving work, I discovered the remote wouldn't unlock my 32. The car is alarmed, so I didn't want to try opening it with the keys (in the end this didn't matter anyway)

I assumed I had left my headlights on and decided to return the next morning with a mate to jump start it.

When we returned the next day, we discovered the battery was completely dead. However, I hadn't left the headlights on so I was confused as to why the battery died.

With keys in my pocket, we fitted the new battery and immediately my passenger side headlight turned on. (Normal headlight, not hi-beam or fog etc.)

I was able to start the car, and flicking the headlight knob turned the drivers side headlight on. Flicking the knob in to the off position, the drivers side light turned off and the passenger side remained on. (This was not a problem previously, however I suspect it is the cause of the dead battery)

For a few weeks prior to the battery dying, my passenger side indicator had been doing the 'double-speed' thing. To be honest, I had just ignored this.

Now, that indicator works properly, but I still have the headlight problem.

Has anyone encountered this before? Or knows where I should start looking?

 

Thank you for reading,

 

Aaron

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/469068-r32-gts-t-headlight-permanently-on/
Share on other sites
Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

Yes, either the switch or the headlight relay has failed. Can you tell if it is regular or high beam that is stuck on?

The relay is easiest to start with and only impacts your high beam flashing. Under the bonnet near the battery is a small black fuse box, find and remove the headlight relay. It is probably brown. If the headlight goes out you just need to replace that relay, and everything is fine to drive in the meantime if you can't get one straight away.

If that makes no difference, or if it is the low beams that are on you need to remove the steering column surround to get to the wiring for the headlight switch. Once you get there unplug the wiring from the switch, if the light goes out you need to replace the switch. If that's the problem people like Just Jap keep them in stock because they are failing more often as the cars are 30 years old.

If it's not that....head to an auto electrician :)

  • Like 1
32_love Collaborator

32_love

Posted
  • Author
Posted
29 minutes ago, Duncan said:

Yes, either the switch or the headlight relay has failed. Can you tell if it is regular or high beam that is stuck on?

The relay is easiest to start with and only impacts your high beam flashing. Under the bonnet near the battery is a small black fuse box, find and remove the headlight relay. It is probably brown. If the headlight goes out you just need to replace that relay, and everything is fine to drive in the meantime if you can't get one straight away.

If that makes no difference, or if it is the low beams that are on you need to remove the steering column surround to get to the wiring for the headlight switch. Once you get there unplug the wiring from the switch, if the light goes out you need to replace the switch. If that's the problem people like Just Jap keep them in stock because they are failing more often as the cars are 30 years old.

If it's not that....head to an auto electrician :)

You're a legend. Thank you for all that info.

I'll give all of that a go. Unfortunately it appears to be the low beams, but I'll still check it all out anyway.

 

32_love Collaborator

32_love

Posted
  • Author
Posted
1 hour ago, jmknights93 said:

Hey mate,

If it turns out that you need a new indicator stalk/headlight switch I have plenty of these spare. PM me if you need one or the other. Happy to help out.

Cheers. 

Thanks mate, much appreciated.

I probably won't get to look at it until the weekend, but I'll definitely msg you if that's what I need.

  • Like 1
niZmO_Man Grand Master

niZmO_Man

Posted
Posted

Pull the cluster surround off, then pull the headlight switch off. Pop the cover off and inspect the pins.
My car came with a burnt plug (probably caused by crappy 100W bulbs). I spliced a good condition plug in and wired up some relays for the headlights.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      When's the rear mounted turbo kit coming? Needs dose and V8 chop idle lol.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I was very unimpressed with how the car came up from the A pillar forward, before I hit things (twice). It all has to go. It had to go, but now it has to go... more. So we finally found the very first Shennanigans with the entirely perfectly setup engine that had no problems being pulled apart to improve on 'was perfectly fine'. Cam bearings looked a bit... stock. Which isn't entirely bad given they were stock and this is a ~20 year old engine. So new cam bearings are on the way because it's somewhat difficult to get to this stage to do it later, and it will trash the block. It was quite unusual that it wasn't done when the perfectly new-looking VCM cam was originally installed by [unknown] What IS unusual is the cam that was installed there was advanced SIX degrees. As to why there is no way to know.. however it could have been @Dose Pipe Sutututu's mate who wanted a larger cam sound but also wanted it to come on earlier to be more usable. This is my dyno sheet with the previous setup - This cam is not supposed to peak until 7000+ RPM, according to VCM. This is what lead me down the whole 'my heads/intake setup is running out of puff and can't support the cam' line of thinking to begin with. Anyway too late now - New cam is in! It could be rather funny if this smaller cam acts like a larger cam because it isn't advanced six degrees. In the spirit of everything is working amazingly - the COMP cam required no dialling in whatsoever. It was about 0.5 degrees advanced, which seems pretty bang on. Any adjustment either way would be further out. In the spirit of everything was previously working amazingly - The timing gear that was taken out turned out to be was an N-Motion double timing chain kit, with adjustable cam gear (which is how it was 6 degrees advanced) and all looks entirely perfectly new. It also had a Torrington bearing, which was one of the reasons I ended up getting the Cloyes kit which they used in the C5R 24 hour racecar - Because I couldn't confirm what was in the engine when talking to Tony Mamo. I did believe however it was a Double chain kit of some kind... but found no supporting documentation or evidence for it.
    • Yeetus
      Has anyone put in brand new full carpet? (not floor mats)

      By Yeetus · Posted

      I recently did this to my R33 with the full set from Car Mats Direct, they can't do the vinyl anymore that's advertised on the website due to a supplier issue so I ended up with the Black Loop Pile which looks great. I went all out with rubber sound deadening sheets from Repco and also added the sound deadening foam layer option with the carpet. Makes a world of difference and got rid of all the weird smells in the 29 year old interior. It was a bit of work but I'd 100% recommend it, Car Mats Direct had awesome customer service and quick postage. Replaced my seats with some sporty ones from Autotechnia while I was at it, feels like a new car.
    • TurboTapin
      R32 GTST - 600KW+ RB28/CD009 Build

      By TurboTapin · Posted

      Got the motor out and torn down. I'll be dropping off the block Monday. Luckily the scoring on Cyl6 is much less pronounced then the pictures made it out to seem. It can barely be felt. If you pass your finger over it 10x you'll barely notice it. Hopefully by some chance it will only require a honing. I'm not in the mood to buy one size larger pistons or another block. Oddly enough my 6th cylinder with the scoring has extremely clean intake valves compared to my other 5 cylinders. I'm worried the scoring was caused by too much fuel or Water/Methanol washing the cylinder. I'll review some old logs to confirm.  This was also the first time I pull an engine with the transmission still attached. It went much better then expected. I was worried my CD009 wouldn't make it easy due to its sheer size but it was much easier this way. 
    • joshuaho96
      Nismo coppermix twinplate clutch

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      From the pictures I have when doing the job the flywheel is the same diameter, I don't think they're playing weird tricks like putting weights at the outer diameter to increase flywheel inertia or anything like that. The OEM flywheel is definitely heavier, but it's not a huge difference. Quoted weight savings of the clutch is 2 kg so I can't imagine the flywheel being lighter than ~7 kg. Kind of regret not weighing it before the clutch went into the car but as far as driveability goes I have no complaints.
×
×
  • Create New...