Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 GTS-T - Headlight Permanently On

32_love

By 32_love,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

32_love Collaborator

32_love

Posted
Posted
R32 GTS-T - Headlight Permanently On

Last Friday, when I was leaving work, I discovered the remote wouldn't unlock my 32. The car is alarmed, so I didn't want to try opening it with the keys (in the end this didn't matter anyway)

I assumed I had left my headlights on and decided to return the next morning with a mate to jump start it.

When we returned the next day, we discovered the battery was completely dead. However, I hadn't left the headlights on so I was confused as to why the battery died.

With keys in my pocket, we fitted the new battery and immediately my passenger side headlight turned on. (Normal headlight, not hi-beam or fog etc.)

I was able to start the car, and flicking the headlight knob turned the drivers side headlight on. Flicking the knob in to the off position, the drivers side light turned off and the passenger side remained on. (This was not a problem previously, however I suspect it is the cause of the dead battery)

For a few weeks prior to the battery dying, my passenger side indicator had been doing the 'double-speed' thing. To be honest, I had just ignored this.

Now, that indicator works properly, but I still have the headlight problem.

Has anyone encountered this before? Or knows where I should start looking?

 

Thank you for reading,

 

Aaron

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/469068-r32-gts-t-headlight-permanently-on/
Share on other sites
Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

Yes, either the switch or the headlight relay has failed. Can you tell if it is regular or high beam that is stuck on?

The relay is easiest to start with and only impacts your high beam flashing. Under the bonnet near the battery is a small black fuse box, find and remove the headlight relay. It is probably brown. If the headlight goes out you just need to replace that relay, and everything is fine to drive in the meantime if you can't get one straight away.

If that makes no difference, or if it is the low beams that are on you need to remove the steering column surround to get to the wiring for the headlight switch. Once you get there unplug the wiring from the switch, if the light goes out you need to replace the switch. If that's the problem people like Just Jap keep them in stock because they are failing more often as the cars are 30 years old.

If it's not that....head to an auto electrician :)

  • Like 1
32_love Collaborator

32_love

Posted
  • Author
Posted
29 minutes ago, Duncan said:

Yes, either the switch or the headlight relay has failed. Can you tell if it is regular or high beam that is stuck on?

The relay is easiest to start with and only impacts your high beam flashing. Under the bonnet near the battery is a small black fuse box, find and remove the headlight relay. It is probably brown. If the headlight goes out you just need to replace that relay, and everything is fine to drive in the meantime if you can't get one straight away.

If that makes no difference, or if it is the low beams that are on you need to remove the steering column surround to get to the wiring for the headlight switch. Once you get there unplug the wiring from the switch, if the light goes out you need to replace the switch. If that's the problem people like Just Jap keep them in stock because they are failing more often as the cars are 30 years old.

If it's not that....head to an auto electrician :)

You're a legend. Thank you for all that info.

I'll give all of that a go. Unfortunately it appears to be the low beams, but I'll still check it all out anyway.

 

32_love Collaborator

32_love

Posted
  • Author
Posted
1 hour ago, jmknights93 said:

Hey mate,

If it turns out that you need a new indicator stalk/headlight switch I have plenty of these spare. PM me if you need one or the other. Happy to help out.

Cheers. 

Thanks mate, much appreciated.

I probably won't get to look at it until the weekend, but I'll definitely msg you if that's what I need.

  • Like 1
niZmO_Man Grand Master

niZmO_Man

Posted
Posted

Pull the cluster surround off, then pull the headlight switch off. Pop the cover off and inspect the pins.
My car came with a burnt plug (probably caused by crappy 100W bulbs). I spliced a good condition plug in and wired up some relays for the headlights.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • joshuaho96
      Are you an oil nerd?

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      You're not wrong but 5W30 at 100C is like 10 cSt vs 25 cSt for 10W60. If we think in terms of viscosity margin 10W60 will probably still be ok at 130C but 5W30 is probably too little. It's absolutely shocking how hot the oil gets in something like a stock FL5 from only ~3 minutes of use on the Nordschleife. I would not risk taking a car like that to anything remotely intense without a ton of work done for cooling. Heat shielding on the manifold/turbo/downpipe, oil coolers, etc. 
    • Kinkstaah
      Are you an oil nerd?

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I think the concept is highlighting the various scenarios where thicker oil helps, and thicker oil potentially doesn't help and only generates heat and costs power, in turn for safety which isn't actually any safer (unless you're going real hot). If anything this does highlight why throwing Castrol 10w-60 for your track days is always a solid, safe bet. 
    • GTSBoy
      Are you an oil nerd?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Jason should have shown a real viscosity vs temp chart. All the grades have very little viscosity difference at full operating temperature.
    • dbm7
      BCNR33 Blower Motor Resistor - Testing

      By dbm7 · Posted

      Oops... I meant to include the connector  view... BR/W - power from fuse L/W - motor negative to fan control amp (and off to HVAC pin19) OR/B - PWM signal (from HVAC pin20) B --  ground  
    • Murray_Calavera
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      Yep, if you are applying filler it sounds like there is something wrong with the body lol. Safe to assume there is going to be a lot of sanding going on if your still applying fillers.  Picture a perfect bare metal panel, smooth as glass. You lay down your primer, it's perfect. (why are you going to sand it?) You lay down the colour and clear, it's perfect. No sanding at all took place and you've got a perfectly finished panel.  You won't be chasing your tail, sounds like you were prepping to start laying filler. If your happy with the body after the sanding, there is some bare metal exposed and some areas with primer, no issues at all, start laying the filler. You are safe to lay filler on bare metal or primer (of course check your technical data sheet as usual for what your filler is happy to adhere to).  This isn't a 100% correct statement. There is primer that is happy to adhere to smooth bare metal. There are fillers that are happy to adhere to smooth bare metal. Just make sure you're using the right materials for the job.  Typically if you are using filler, you would go primer, colour and clear. I've never seen any instances before where someone has laid colour over body filler (maybe this happens, but I haven't seen it before). So your plan sounds pretty normal to me. 
×
×
  • Create New...