Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

 

Wondering if any of you that have built or had built an RB short block would mind posting your estimated build cost.

 

I am in the process of getting quotes and they range from 5k to 15k

 

This is short block only.

 

Peak rpm 8000

Power 700hp

 

Professional job with quality parts.

 

Any input is appreciated.

 

Don't mind the look of the spool short block on their website at $6600 thoughts?

 

 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/469110-short-block-build-cost/
Share on other sites

This is only an approximation based on mine.  There would be a lot higher examples and possibly a bit lower but you'd get a pretty good engine for that.

$1500 pistons

$1000 rods

$500 bearings

$1000 Machining

$1000 Labour

 

$15k looks a bit OTT

Ewan's $5k is more like it...although you might want to fully balance the lot.

For NZ$8K Rips wil biuld you a fully forged 2wd RB30 short block  or for $13K a complete engine.

Everyone forget all the little things that add up, oil pump, studs, gaskets, new factory oil cooler, hoses, drilling out oil returns, Welch plugs and the list goes on 

+1 for this. Also depending on what engine it is. If rb26 I would b adding in an extended sump so that's another 1500+ and while the motor is out I would also be doing the front diff
5 minutes ago, UWISSH! said:


+1 for this. Also depending on what engine it is. If rb26 I would b adding in an extended sump so that's another 1500+ and while the motor is out I would also be doing the front diff.

+ 1 on this!

7 hours ago, r32-25t said:

Everyone forget all the little things that add up, oil pump, studs, gaskets, new factory oil cooler, hoses, drilling out oil returns, Welch plugs and the list goes on 

was going to post exactly this. its the little bits that blow it out. few hundred on this, few hundred on that.. maybe replace this and that while im here.

With no labour for assembly as I'm a mech my long motor cost me 11k 

That's spool I beams, cp pistons, spline driven oil gears, new oil pump for the housing, new water pump, new timing belt kit, seals and gaskets, cometic head gasket. Arp mains, arp head bolts,new valve Springs, exhaust head porting, head reco, block decked, bored, tunnel bored and chemical clean, crank linished and collar fitted, random fittings for external oil feed for vct, sump modifications, a few other bits and peices

  • Like 1

Yep to the pins and fasteners yet no the rb26 bearings. My motor currently only making 335awkw on e85, yet will go alot higher once I have more funding to upgrade the turbo and manifold as its currently just the stock rb25 manifold with an internal gate hypergear atr43g3

Sent from my E5823 using SAU Community mobile app

 

 

 

 

  • Like 1

and while the motor is out I would also be doing the front diff


Yeah this bit. Wish that I had this done but when the unexpectedly high (to me at the time at least) engine rebuild costs mount up it is so hard to justify.
10 hours ago, Piggaz said:

If you're gonna rebuild... build a stroker! It's so little.. for so much more!

If staying 2.6, put another stock engine into it....

HUH? If ou need a new crank then perhaps....but if your crank is healthy than 2k on rods and pistons...whats the cheapest stroker kit these days?

23 minutes ago, Roy said:

HUH? If ou need a new crank then perhaps....but if your crank is healthy than 2k on rods and pistons...whats the cheapest stroker kit these days?

Why would you leave the factory throw crank in there when for a little bit more you could have a stroker?

You're paying for machining, assembly, studs, gaskets, pumps and consumables anyway.

Baffles me why guys go to all that effort and leave it standard capacity. 

LOL Price? They all seem 6k. For me thats another 6-9 months of saving over an ebay piston/rod deal for 2k:( Baffles me that peple have the disposable income to shell out on stuff...by baffle i mean envious. I am still trying to piece my car back together after 2 years of being off the road and tired of being broke and spending all my spare cash on cars :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Result of another R35GTR build. Similar specs as above except this is running our bigger size SS-2 profile option. Made similar power except this car runs on Pump 98 fuel. Build specs are: Nissan R35 GTR 2015 model stock engine and box. ETS street intercooler boost logi intercooler piping with tial bov, boost logi turbo inlet pipe ID 1050 injector DW 300C fuel pump Decatted oem down pipe and y pipe& HKS exaust 3inch intake pipe Upgraded actautors HyperGear SS-2 high flow option Final result is 639whp / 477wkws hubs, Ron 93 / P98 fuel at 20psi.  
    • Duncan:- it affect both sides.  Driver side is worse.
    • That seems like a very special issue!  Does it affect both sides? Either way, I would disconnect the driver's side switch and see if it still happens, noting that might require removal of the whole door card which is a bit of a pain (it does on V37 and HY51)  
    • MBS206:- The windows start to slowly open themselves. GTSBoy:- Battery is new since Dec. 
    • I currently have a 2008 370GT Coupe, with the big brakes (Akebeno if I'm correct), and Its coming time to get new pads. Previously, I had a 2003 350GT Coupe with the stock sized brakes, not Brembos. I had custom wheels on it that were pretty open to the brakes, and when I first put the wheels on it, the rims where completely coated with brake dust. A few years after adding the new rims, I needed to change to pads on that car. I didn't do any research, but I told the mechanic of the problem with the brake dust. I also told him I didn't track the car or even drive around the streets harshley. But the dust was an issue. The mechanics changed the pads to a different compound, and the dust was GONE! The other change I noted was that when coming to a complete stop, instead of having to press harder on the pedal as I approached 0kph, I had to actually lift off a little to not come to a hard jerky stop.( My unfounded explanation is they became stickier as they heated by stopping ) Since I got my 370gt with big brakes, I noticed that that as I came closer to stopping, I had to press harder and harder to reach a full stop. I am not talking about hard, just harder. I brought the car in from another state, so when I had a blue slip done, I asked the mechanic what he thought of the brakes, and he thought they were brilliant. The only negative of these pads on the 350GT, was that they squealed when cold. So driving out of a shopping center carpark, it was a little embarrassing, as the brakes squealed, and I am sure people thought that I needed new brakes, when they were actually fresh. I have no idea of what type of compound they were on the 350gt, but whatever it was, I want to get the exact same on my 370GT. They weren't ridiculously expensive, and were replaced at the local JAX (which is no longer open), so I am certain they would be a pretty common big brand, off the shelf type/brand. My current mechanic suggested I need top get the rear pads changed soonish, but he suggested standard Brembo pads. Which I expect to behave the same as the current ones and not like the ones on the 350GT.  I don't think dust will be an issue on the 370GT. With the behaviour I describe above on the 360GT, does anyone have a suggestion of pad material that will act like the change I had done on the 350GT?
×
×
  • Create New...