Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

9 hours ago, MatthewT85 said:

It's interesting seeing your results. I have atr43ss2 with a cooling pro return flow and the first time I had it tuned it made about 280. Not long after getting it back it started knocking coming on boost. Took it back and 4 degrees of timing was taken out to keep it safe. Bringing it back to 250ish. Apparently it just couldn't take sensible timing and had high IAT. Wondering if it's same issues.

Also i had a gasket fail too, but it was the manifold one, was some cheap shit one and studs were finger tight

From all the threads I have read, it seems return flow is not ideal for trying to get past 250rwkw on 98. 
They just aren't efficient enough. Plenty of people have made more power but it's normally with bigger turbos and better setups. 

Tuner didn't mention anything about high IAT or timing issues on mine, it seemed though to have pressure drop across the intercooler.
Post intercooler it would hit 20psi and bleed down to 16psi, pre intercooler it would hit 20psi and hold around 19psi. 

Enjoy the 250rwkw though and if you feel like chasing down the issue then do that once the 250 gets boring, that's what I'm doing :)

3 hours ago, Manuel Kasko said:

From all the threads I have read, it seems return flow is not ideal for trying to get past 250rwkw on 98. 
They just aren't efficient enough. Plenty of people have made more power but it's normally with bigger turbos and better setups. 

Tuner didn't mention anything about high IAT or timing issues on mine, it seemed though to have pressure drop across the intercooler.
Post intercooler it would hit 20psi and bleed down to 16psi, pre intercooler it would hit 20psi and hold around 19psi. 

Enjoy the 250rwkw though and if you feel like chasing down the issue then do that once the 250 gets boring, that's what I'm doing :)

yeah i have noticed that too about 250 being the average.  Just weird that I had 280 at one point, although tuner did find the gate slightly open and once that was tightened maybe it didnt like it... but didnt show up at the time.

The only thing I can see different on your graph is mine has boost around 16psi and slowly rises to 19-20ish at redline, in my other thread people have mentioned things like CAS so I guess I just have to work out what I want to start with...

Well having 280 at one point makes the 250 boring straight away :(

  • 1 month later...
Currently have a weird grinding noise between 1000-2000rpm coming from the front of the engine around the CAS/Cylinder 1 
Going to try get the CAS off over the next few days and work out if that's what's causing it.

Video of the grinding noise if anyone is interested in hearing it.

The video is just there for the sound, not for the actual footage.
Had a few people comment on it being potato footage, the intent was just to get the noise not footage of the front of a normal RB25neo...

 

Also have a loud fuel pump, so might pull that out and try cut a bit off the bracket and install another clamp on there.
Hopefully that will stop the buzzing that it currently has.


Did you change your timing belt when I changed mine the idler made it whine like that.
  • 2 weeks later...
On 2/23/2017 at 9:53 PM, Manuel Kasko said:

Currently have a weird grinding noise between 1000-2000rpm coming from the front of the engine around the CAS/Cylinder 1 
Going to try get the CAS off over the next few days and work out if that's what's causing it.

Video of the grinding noise if anyone is interested in hearing it.

The video is just there for the sound, not for the actual footage.
Had a few people comment on it being potato footage, the intent was just to get the noise not footage of the front of a normal RB25neo...

 


Also have a loud fuel pump, so might pull that out and try cut a bit off the bracket and install another clamp on there.
Hopefully that will stop the buzzing that it currently has.

I'd be pretty confident in saying that you are running a gates racing timing belt? They usually make that sound for the first couple thousand kms. The noise from the belt will go away after running in. It's also quite possible that your timing belt may be a touch to tight. 

1 hour ago, jmknights93 said:

I'd be pretty confident in saying that you are running a gates racing timing belt? They usually make that sound for the first couple thousand kms. The noise from the belt will go away after running in. It's also quite possible that your timing belt may be a touch to tight. 

Hey mate, thanks for the info.

I'm actually running just a genuine timing belt.
Someone actually presumed the same thing when they heard the noise so maybe it is a touch too tight and makes it sound like the gates do.
I purposely didn't get a gates because I saw so many posts about them being loud. 

  • Like 1
6 minutes ago, Manuel Kasko said:

Hey mate, thanks for the info.

I'm actually running just a genuine timing belt.
Someone actually presumed the same thing when they heard the noise so maybe it is a touch too tight and makes it sound like the gates do.
I purposely didn't get a gates because I saw so many posts about them being loud. 

I was half right with my answer then haha. Easy fix.

  • 2 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks Duncan! Yeah it's street use for me only. Maybe occasional track day. Any difference in noise when running with the two pumps? I would expect the lift pump to be more quiet than the main pump so hopefully not? And yes, unfortunately quite a big price difference to the simple hanger setup. Though I'm usually willing to trade money for better reliability and future-proofing. Buy once, cry once and all that. I'd be very happy to never have to deal with fuel pump / wiring issues again  
    • The old manifold was quite under the GTR strut brace.  The new manifold is quite [unknown] the GTR strut brace. The GTR strut brace was needed to clear the bonnet vents. The Old strut brace will almost certainly clear the new manifold, but not the bonnet vents. The old strut brace will almost certainly clear the new manifold, and the new bonnet without vents. But I am hoping the GTR strut brace clears the new manifold :p
    • On the bright side, at least you knew that it happened and remedied before anything happened. A friend of mine just took his Fiat 124 to a shop for an oil change and they didn't tighten the oil filter housing properly. 4.5 quarts spewed out and even after refilling + tightening the cap the engine has a tick now.
    • So, more pain. The FAST manifold is a little larger than the stocker. This is problematic because there really wasn't much clearance to begin with, so going from 'barely enough' well into 'no' is sad based on the external dimensions of the thing, even though where it bolts to the head is the same. Result is the fuel rails sit a good 25mm higher, and this is a bit of an issue with the wiring that runs behind the motor, and the fuel lines, and everything else. When pushing the manifold on, it required a huge amount of force to crush wiring looms to fit it, sensors like the MAP sensor are about 1mm from the firewall, and the FPR just has to bend ABS lines to be forced into place. After some brainstorming and some sad drinking, the loom for some reason ran from the grommet behind the ABS sensor, then to the driver side head, then back to the passenger side head. So all of this was pulled back and stripped, a few wires cut and rejoined, so that the 'branch' was now on the passenger side's head as below: Before you basically couldn't see anything behind the driver head. This is much improved! The MAP sensor is now pointing up (instead of at the firewall) Brackets have been made up for the rail. The rails are for a LS1, the manifold is designed around a LS2 as it's base. Which of course has slightly different bracketry and water pump clearance, hence the mods people need to do. Should be hopefully mounted tonight. I spent money on a new FPR that is slightly more compact than my Turbosmart FPR1200. The gauge has also been moved to the rail. There's also apparently an ORB to AN Union instead of the adapter, because the ~25mm of the current adapter is going to make the difference. Provided this all goes together and arrives today, it'll be the totally not stressful attempt to start it.
×
×
  • Create New...