Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

R33 Running Rich, Rough and Struggling to Start

Hi all,

New to the site after trying to find answers through existing posts and come up with nothing

1993 R33 RB25DET (bought it NA and put the RB25DET in it) its been sitting for a year before I decided to register it.

was running somewhat fine misfiring and rough on high boost through gears but idled ok. 5 weeks into it and its overfuelling extremely strong blowing black smoke and sounds like a wrx no matter what speed im doing. on start up whether it was hot or cold it sounded like a dead battery but eventually wound over, this is progressively getting worse taking longer and longer to wind over, when it does wind over it takes a while to start (thinking fuel issue)

im getting 350km out of a tank and extremely fuelly inside and out of the car.

pinging when boosting

was wanting advice for where to look first? was thinking to test coil packs, maybe the CAS (a tune maybe?) suspected timing issue maybe?

standard motor and ecu with the usual mods.

I am using the non turbo exhaust could that play a part?

any help appreciated so I can start eliminating potential causes. thinking maybe its running advanced can I alter this via the CAS?

mechanically minded on naturally aspirated cars but bring fuel injection and ECUs in and im lost

A CAS wouldn't stop your motor from winding over.  What boost are you running?  Timing and other stuff wouldn't stop you winding over, a timing belt that is out could, but it has to be out a lot and then you are in even more trouble. 

Sounds like hydraulic lock, but I can't figure out how unless the fuel pump is still alive and you have a leaking injector - but that's unlikely.

 

Cleaned the injectors? Replaced the fuel filter? Running the DET ECU? Set correct base timing?

How many litres is "a tank of fuel"? If you are continually boosting, then 350k might not be such a bad consumption rate.

Your starting problems - maybe a bad earth, or a dying starter motor.

its running standard boost, fully serviced although I haven't checked the injectors as yet a full tank as in around 45-50 litres. I thought it was initially the starter however when you pump the throttle it seems to have some sort of affect in starting, I can hear the fuel pump kick in on reds and at lights I can hear it click on and off so im assuming that's ok??

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Lucky pick up Best to find these things before something horrible happened to the yoke flange thingies I would hate to think what would happen if it dropped the tailshaft  Hopefully the holes are not flogged out in the yokes and it was just the bolts that got munted  As for the hand brake.....ouch, look like the disc got rather hot, and I assume smokey, I recall when I had a front caliper seize on the Commodore, there was lots of smoke and the disc was glowing cherry red when I was able to eventually stop and have a look, and stopping a big heavy car, going down a big hill with some rather high RPM down shifts and some hand brake action is something that makes you think hard about life
    • One of the things that never seemed right was the handbrake. Put in some nice new Project Mu shoes. We figured the rears were out, so why not. We're right there. My handbrake never worked well anyway. Well, this is them, 15km later. 67fdcf94-9763-4522-97a4-8f04b2ad0826.mp4 Keen eyes would note the difference in this picture too:   And this picture: Also, this was my Tailshaft bolts: 4ad3c7dd-51d0-4577-8e72-ba8bc82f6e87.mp4 It turns out my suspicions that one side of the handbrake cable was stretched all along were pretty accurate, as was my intuition that I didn't want to drop the tailshaft to swap them on jack stands and wasn't entirely sure about bolt torque. I have since bought the handbrake cables which have gone in. I'm very glad that I went to my mechanic friend who owns an alignment machine to get an alignment before the track day, because his eyes spotted these various levels of "WHAT THE f**k IS GOING ON HERE?". Turns out the alignment wasn't that bad, considering we changed the adjustable castor arms out for un-adjustable castor arms, and messed with the heights. Car drove pretty good with one side of the handbrake stuck on, unbleedable rear brakes, alignment screwy, and the tailshaft about to go flying and generally being a death trap waiting to happen! (I did have covid) (I maintain I adjusted the handbrake correctly, but movement caused shennanigans and/or I dislodged the spring on the problem side somewhat, or god knows what). G R E G G E D
    • Very interesting, im not sure how all those complications fit in to running a haltech instead of a stock ecu but I'm starting to think I'm a bit out of my league.
    • I just put 2 and 2 together. This is a Neo converted R32. The Neo ECU (in concert with the R34's AC controller) runs the AC quite differently to how the R32 ECU and AC controller do it. If you just drop it all in, it won't work. There is some tricky wiring required, including changing to the pressure switch that the Neo controllers want to see. I don't know what it is, because mine was done by a guru. It was a year or so after I did that transplant before he worked out what needed to be done.
    • Don't assume the AC relay signal from the ECU is +, some models including Stagea use an earth trigger.
×
×
  • Create New...