Jump to content
SAU Community

Does anyone know what these cheap coil overs are like on ebay?

BR11GY
 Share

Recommended Posts

hardsteppa Grand Master

hardsteppa

Posted
Posted

Although i will add, bc's coming out of the same factory as greddy's does show you don't need to pay top $$, but consider minimum production cost for materials, manufacturing, engineering etc. They can only go so low before cutting corners. 

  • 1 month later...
BR11GY Contributor

BR11GY

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Good news all you "Nay sayers" out there.

 

We gave these shitty cheap coil overs ago at SMP we cracked 1:54.98 on old ku31 kumhos in a r32 gtst with a stock unboosted rb20det.

 

So as suspected they are pretty good considering the cost. We couldn't tell much from soft to hard adjustment but meh its $400 i think that's a win!

Steve85 Mentor

Steve85

Posted
Posted

What height do these coilovers run at? I am "sort of" always looking for nice tall suspension for shipping purposes. That is, change from low coilovers (yes they are at the top) to cheap tall suspension, then ship the car, once car is shipped change suspension back. 

If you have the specs for your new suspension I would love to see it.

 

GH05T Grand Master

GH05T

Posted
Posted
On 4/22/2017 at 10:58 PM, BR11GY said:

Good news all you "Nay sayers" out there.

 

We gave these shitty cheap coil overs ago at SMP we cracked 1:54.98 on old ku31 kumhos in a r32 gtst with a stock unboosted rb20det.

 

So as suspected they are pretty good considering the cost. We couldn't tell much from soft to hard adjustment but meh its $400 i think that's a win!

all good....till it goes bad......

  • Like 1
vetter2769 Proficient

vetter2769

Posted
Posted
On 02/05/2017 at 10:16 AM, Adz2332 said:

so $400 sounds good upfront.... but when they fail youll pay another $400 for another set? so now $800 and your almost at the price point of something decent

Not to mention the things that would break from such a failure, a poor man pays twice.

 

to OP - you've asked for feedback on cheap coilovers, you have received such feedback, the general consensus is that they are shit, but the current situation you're in with cut springs is also of concern. 

I have a feeling you were hoping for answers such as "yeah they ok" they all right" but in reality they will cause you more headaches than they're worth.

Good advice here would be to take car of road till decent suspension components can be installed.

Cheers.

  • Like 1
niZmO_Man Grand Master

niZmO_Man

Posted
Posted
On 07/03/2017 at 8:26 AM, hardsteppa said:

Although i will add, bc's coming out of the same factory as greddy's does show you don't need to pay top $$, but consider minimum production cost for materials, manufacturing, engineering etc. They can only go so low before cutting corners. 

There's more to quality of a product than "coming out of the same factory" i.e. quality control. But if it's a simple re-labelling, then yeah :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Potential MAP Reference Point

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Getting a decent signal from all 6 throats is a challenge. I don't know for sure, but I suspect that the stock balance tube is not ideal for it. I have done it on an ALFA 4 cylinder (about 35 years ago, so don't ask for too many details). We drilled 4x holes in the manifold runners, put in some fittings and ran hoses to a decent sized (I think it was about 20mm diameter) pipe that ran the length of the inlet manifold. So, it was quite a decent volume. There is a "tuning" balance to be found between the volume of the common plenum on such a thing and the diameter of the pipes running from it to the runners. You need the volume to be large enough to damp out the sharp spikes in pressure signal you get as each runner gets sucked on by its cylinder, but not so large that it becomes too slow to respond to actual changes in MAP. And you need the hoses to be small enough to transmit the signal quickly, but not so small that they delay the signal. You might have to have more than one go at it, if there isn't any actual success based wisdom to be had here. Hopefully there is. Anyway, I would not do it on only a couple of cylinders. I would also not care about "permanently modifying a part". Just bloody drill holes and make stuff better. There is nothing sacred about any GTR unless it is a genuine museum piece that you shouldn't be modifying at all anyway.
    • MBS206
      NC MX5

      By MBS206 · Posted

      He's still joining you, he's just delayed it and won't have the fulleh sick ITBs...
    • Kinkstaah
      R34 GTT front hood lip

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      The strange thing is this is a URAS front bumper (or clone of it). The bumper actually does not sit flush with the GTT hood - You need the addon to make the hood 'long' enough to reach the bumper. I have no idea why they didn't incorporate this piece into the bumper itself.. instead of sticking it to the hood instead.
    • AdiR34
      R34 GTT front hood lip

      By AdiR34 · Posted

      Another thought on this OLD topic: When you paint your bonnet lip, leave a small unpainted back lip/line along the back of the lip, where it rests on the bumper. That way, the line in the back is much more prominent than the gaps in the front/under the lip - and it breaks the hood-to-bumper connection at the "correct" place, when comparing to a GTR. I'm gonna do this with mine this week, so stay tuned for pics!
    • Radical_Goodspeed
      Potential MAP Reference Point

      By Radical_Goodspeed · Posted

      So I'm in the final stages of assembling my single turbo RB30/26 and had a question regarding MAP reference points.  I've seen several recommendations such as tapping the cylinder 2/3 ITB, tapping the intake manifold at cylinder 2/3, or using a point on IAC. First two are doable but require permanently modify part and the third is "out" as I plan to delete the IAC.  All that to say my question is can I used the "bleeder" in the center of the ballance tube as a MAP Reference? I'm running a catch can so I don't need it for the PCV system. My thought process is it "pulls" from all 6 cylinder, and it's between the ITB and the cylinders making it ideal for MAP reference according to what I can find. Thoughts?
×
×
  • Create New...