Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

2006 250GT Tire Pressure?

Hey guys,

 

Probably an incredibly silly question, but I just want to be sure.

I have 225/55R17's all round and I just realized I haven't checked their pressure since I got the car.

I got told from a friend that it's 32PSI so I went out to the gas station to go check it all.

It's 24 degree weather today (Not sure if that matters) A couple were around 40PSI as the others were mid 30.

 

I changed them all to 35PSI and I'm not too sure if I was meant to do that all around?

I don't know if it's just my brain thinking the ride was a bit more 'bouncy' or if it actually is.

Am I meant to have higher pressure in the rear or vice-versa?

 

I have too many questions, if someone could put my mind at ease it would be greatly appreciated.

 

Cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/469493-2006-250gt-tire-pressure/
Share on other sites

Awesome, thanks. So it's normal to have the same pressure on all wheels?

Also just another quick question. I found the sticker on the inside of the door that tells you it's recommended kPa.

The tire description is all the same apart from the last bit (95V) on the sticker and I've got '97W' on my actual tires?

(Probably still stressing, but just curious)

 

Thanks again.

53 minutes ago, Huskian said:

Awesome, thanks. So it's normal to have the same pressure on all wheels?

Also just another quick question. I found the sticker on the inside of the door that tells you it's recommended kPa.

The tire description is all the same apart from the last bit (95V) on the sticker and I've got '97W' on my actual tires?

(Probably still stressing, but just curious)

 

Thanks again.

97 is a slightly higher load rating than 95 and W is a slightly higher speed rating than V but for practical purposes they are not that different.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My take on gg2 48mm, 54mm, 58mm, and 62mm compressor map for same size compressor vs gg1 : All gg2 only outflow gg1 above 20 psi. As all g gen 2 surge line at lower left of comp map move to the right, all gg2 sacrifice spool vs same size gg1, surge line move to the right worst for 54mm gg2. So for same size compressor if you want best response, use gg1, if you want max hp at >20psi use gg2 but you will be laggier vs same size gg1. Max compressor efficiency drops to max 75% on all gg2 vs max 76%-80% of same size gg1. Iirc lower efficiency means hotter iat less dense air so lower hp at same operating point of comp map. Also curious why gg2 is mapped to lower max rpm vs same size gg1 (only 48mm size both gg1 gg2 mapped to same rpm) : 54mm gg1 165,000 rpm  vs  gg2 160,000 rpm. 58mm gg1 150,000 rpm vs gg2 140,000rpm. 62mm gg1 145,000 rpm vs gg2 140,000 rpm. If gg2 can safely spin to gg1 rpm then they can flow a bit more than as mapped. Good thing that all gg 2 interchange compressor and turbine housings with same size gg 1. So gg1 owners can buy gg2 chra only if planning to boost >20psi.
    • My stuff is all with Shannon's, granted, I don't really have imports I'm driving on the road, however, I've had multiple cars at the same time with them. Presently we have the Landcruiser on laid up cover, Sarah's Kluger on full cover, and the house insured. About 18 months ago Sarah wrote her Subaru Liberty GTB off, insured with Shannon's, and the payout, and buy back of the wreck was super quick. In 2020 we had the VF Commodore totalled in a major hailstorm. Storm was on the Saturday, I called on the Sunday and lodged it, vehicle was towed on Tuesday night, assessment team called on Wednesday to say it was a total loss and get payout details, money was in the bank on Thursday morning. Have had a few other claims both at fault, and not at fault, over the years, and never had an issue with them.   Funnily enough, they're also the cheapest insurer I find for things like Sarah's Kluger.   I will say I'm less impressed dealing with them lately around "the experience", as a lot of their staff that you deal with aren't car enthusiasts. Shannon's has a much more main stream feel ever since they decided to become "big corporate", laid a heap of staff off, and then hired a bunch of non enthusiasts. At the same time they've been making a push to be less "call us and we'll personally have someone who cares help" to "hey, this computer can do stuff for you" and are trying to get more square pegs to fit round holes. (That's just the vibe I get from them). Again, have had no issues with claims with them, but get a bit of a "less personal" feel from them.
    • A thing I wasn’t happy with with enthusiast was during the initial phone call they told me they’d insure it for 130k but needed photos.   I then sent them photos and they told me $80k as there were other cars either similar modifications available for around that price, I told them to send me the links to said cars so that I can buy them. i then sent the modification list with prices of the parts (no labor) and the price then came to 115k, which is still shy of the 130 that was agreed in the initial phone call 
    • Ask me a bit later this week before payday
    • I agree that delayed payment probably isn't the most suitable solution. It seems a solid complete transaction would be best. As I wouldn't be using this sale as a line of credit that would typically earn interest, we can probably arrange a much cleaner single transaction deal. I can do $92.52 today. Would you prefer EFT, or Cash on Pickup?  😛
×
×
  • Create New...