Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 GTR fuel pump setup.


MJTru
 Share

Recommended Posts

Well after my r32 gtr fuel pump setup. We all came to the conclusion that it was over kill.

I going for 800 hp and may run E85 later on. I looking to do the simplest setup, intank would be great. I'm not looking to upgrade alternator or nothing that crazy. But I am willing to run a separate power supply. I just think it's hard to do in a r33 gtr due to the tank design. I'm just wondering what people has done to achieve these goals. I'm still searching and hope by making this thread, maybe I'll get some new up today suggestions.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites


Spend the change in Power FC Pro 


Boy never letting it go aye. Lol
I see some duel 460 surge tanks by radium. For around 5 hundred dollars. Looks clean and simple. Do you really feel that lift pump will be good enough.??

We're would you recommend returning it from the fpr. To surge tank or fuel tank. Also with dual pumps would I need a fuel cooler.
I'm looking for the simplest setup. Also was looking at fuel lab stuff. Like there variable pumps.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would get the Aftermarket Industries surge tank as they're a little more compact and also you're supporting Australian products :)

Although the Radium stuff is porn.

You could run 2x Walbro 460L pumps in the surge into the rail and stage them via your ECU, wait.... you can't do that on a PowerFC Pro.

Yes FPR return to surge tank, surge tank return back into fuel tank. If you're constantly on corn juice, no real need for a fuel cooler however it's always good to run one regardless. Some people who don't mind losing boost space actually run their fuel coolers in there.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I support Australian products all the time. I just got 2 manifolds from Kyle at 6 boost. To date I have ordered 6 or 7. Next I ordered 2 extended sumps from Rob at face fab. So I really don't mind. Oh. Don't forget a power fc pro from an Australian mate. Lol

I'm still looking at fuel setup other guys are using. I could however use an rpm signal switch or boost signal switch to stage the next pump, when running the pro. But I'm thinking about using the Haltech ps2000. I have joined there fourm and seeing if I can work things out. Last time I mest with it. I noticed it has 2 method of tuning.

Next I had to setup the actual timing. Like using a timing light with a spark plug wire on number one cylinder to get the right timing and then input it. Next was fuel pressure and a whole bunch of other stuff just to start up. One of my problems was getting a good wiring diagrams of the plug and play harness for the pre-made harness that came with the ecu. Next was extra pins for the plugs to run extra stuff. Like outputs. I feel all of this is just me being lazy. Hence why I like the power fc.

I'll give it a good this time.

I know I'll need help.

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, Borci88 said:

I would love to see a GTR make 800hp on 98 through a single 8mm fuel line... let alone when you add E85..

he's got a while before he gets there.. so when that time comes, we'll recommend using his return line as a 2nd feed and run a new return line lol

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Where does the extra power come from to run all these pumps and increased load here, there and everywhere? 800 hp reliably on a stock alternator? 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The two diagrams are equivalent. The R32 one is just one sheet out of about 3 showing everything in the whole car all at once. And without knowing the functionality that occurs in the modules, they are both equally opaque.
    • 8v - 2.48ms 9v - 2.15ms 10v - 1.74ms 11v - 1.41ms 12v - 1.15ms 13v - 0.99ms 14v - 0.89ms 15v - 0.82ms 16v - 0.81ms I'm running these values on my RB20 Neo with 570cc Denso R35 stock jets and it's great. Also bought a set for my Legnum VR4, love these injectors!
    • Thanks for your reply,  Those blue/green wires running to the actuator aren't attached to anything, so I'm not sure how the central locking is still working. I will have to take a good look tomorrow, I don't have the car with me. After googling it seems like a pretty common aftermarket actuator which even uses the same green/blue wires the immobiliser required. i'll test everything tomorrow and if it's working i'll melt the solder, strip it, resolder and neaten it all up with some heat shrink. I don't have to understand it if it works hahaha I just don't want a fire/ short circuit. That R32 diagram looks more like a continuity chart? Can you make sense of this form the R34 manual? 10V is probably due to very flat battery, i'll recheck as well tomorrow, I did have to jump start it haha. Thanks again!  
    • So, COM doesn't mean comms. It means common. What common itself means will depend on the type of device. For a two directional actuator (ie, one that can push and pull on the same output rod) then the common will typically just be the earth connection. There will be at least 2 other wires. If you put 12V on one of the other wires, then the actuator will push. On the other 12V wire, it will pull. Can't quite make out what is going on with the wiring of your actuator. It appears to have several wires at the actuator plug, but there only appears to be 2 wires where its loom approaches the door control module, with at least one of the others cut off. I don't know these actuators off by heart. I'd have to look at a wiring diagram for one before knowing what the wires were about, and that's despite me having to replace one in my car not all that long ago. Just not interesting enough to have dedicated memory set aside for trivia like that any more. That actuator is an aftermarket one, not the original one, which probably died and was replaced. That might require some sort of bodge job on wiring to make it work. Although nothing should justify the bodginess of the bodge job done. As to the soldering job on the door module's loom plug. Ahhahhahaha. Yes, very nasty. Again, I cant tell you what any of those wires do. You'd need to study the R34 wiring diagram (if you can find one that shows the door module). I don't think I have any. I'd have to study the R32 diagram to start to understand what mine is doing, and again, even though I've had a problem with mine for the last 25 years (where it locks the passenger door when the driver's window reaches top or bottom of travel) I'm just not interested enough to try to to work it out. So long as it's not burning down, it's fine with me. Here's the R32 GTR diagram, which, confusingly, has rear door lock actuators and window motors on it!! As you can see, unless you understand the functions of the door lock timer and the power window amplifier, you'll never be able to work out how it works just from the diagram. I don't imagine that the R34 one is any better. Hopefully an R34 aware bod can help. FWIW, the two wires that are cut and joined look like they are both power supply - so hopefully it is not fatal to join them. The 10V you measured on the cut off free end of one of them is concerning. You'd expect 12V, and it might be the reason for the bodge job joining them together.
×
×
  • Create New...