Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Haltech Anti-Lag Launch and Rally

A few queries regarding both, but keep in mind this is just for shits and giggles, will not be used in compeition etc is simply just for laughs/noise. 

Platinum pro on an 34R with -9s etc. 

How harsh is the launch function if I'm only using it for a few seconds here and there, say when pulling up at a mates place to be a goose and not actually launching. Is it less harsh if dropping the rpm or TPS limits or using fuel or ignition cut or is it just all having the same negative impact on gaskets, manifolds, and turbos/temp?

Regarding the Rally setting, similar questions is there a "nicer" value for fuel enrichment and timing retard? As this is not needed for genuine performance and only for driving enjoyment/noise/giggles. Does it still work without a throttle kicker/manually adjusted throttle plate to allow for extra air coming in? Given the time between WOT gear changes (say on an on ramp between 2nd and 3rd, is there going to be an impact anyway? 

Appreciate the input from people who have actively played with both settings. 

Cheers

 

 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/469536-haltech-anti-lag-launch-and-rally/
Share on other sites

Have used the launch function on my adaptronic probably about 30 times, no damage that I know of has occurred, yet (stock rb25 around 300rwkw). If used sparingly with cool downs before attempts to launch the risks are reduced. Cant comment on the settings for haltech or the rally style anti lag.

Had a play with this last night, was funny. 

 Anti Lag Launch is hilarious (didn't actually launch just got it on the 2 step and let it bang bang and spool for giggles). Anti Lag Rally is interesting, you need to drive a certain way to make use of it, but is hilarious to have a WOT blast up towards a corner, lift off, go to shift down and have it bang bang between the shifts and trailing throttle, many giggles had. 

You need to think about it in advance though as the first pull arms it then you have to dip below a threshold for it to fire, I can see this working well on the track. 

I didn't notice anything concerning about EGTs during this testing, but I wasn't using it heavily. 

Launch that's reliant on ignition retard and extra fuel is much easier on the oil pump drive. 2 step (ignition cut limiter) for launch will break your oil pump drive gear eventually.

If you want it to sound tough (not sure if the ecu has it) you can setup cyclic idle, though it's much easier with an electronic throttle as it requires the throttle to be permanently partiality open, will sound like the car has a cammed v8 at idle and helps a lot with cooling the exhaust/turbos down when using antilag.

Yeah it has rotational idle, which as you said requires a throttle adjustment to work. 

It's getting cammed soon anyway so will have a nicer idle as a result. 

Oddly I can select what type of anti lag i want for the rally setting (fuel or ignition, i have ignition set) but not for the launch setting. 

You'd have to think it's an ignition cut also though. 

Only got one clip of anti lag and no flames in this one, boys told me they're very obvious when it does it though​, will get a night clip for extra rice points.

 

ALS rally would work well on the track, for cruising at 7/10ths it's actually more intrusive as it cuts your ability to add your own throttle while it's firing.

 

I played with the duration and engagement points and got it running well, but is most effective when pushing harder.

 

Exhaust temps reached 740 peak during the most spirited part of the drive.

 

 

I wasn't actually launching, just rerevving it up for the noise and a laugh.

Having another conversation at the moment which suggests that the real potential issue is the oil pump.

So while this was fun, I'm not looking for a rebuild any time soon :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For something a little more serious, Davinci Resolve is about the best there is for free video editors. No expiration dates or watermarks, completely free.
    • Well, it's taken me until the last week of 2024 to actually do something on the Skyline but I consider it a good head start to 2025's efforts! I managed to justify (to myself anyway...) my purchase of the lift table. It made taking the rear subframe out a lot easier than it would have been without anyway! Everything is out and stripped down ready for a clean then powdercoating.  She's pretty grubby under there but pretty good condition for a 38 year old Japanese tin bucket. 12 years of zero street time have obviously helped that... I need to decide which of the factory suspension arms I will keep and replace so I only get what I'm keeping powdercoated.  Baby steps but it's a start!  
    • Turbo gods, some assistance and recommendations please I'm looking into a turbo kit for my 2.5 from MX5 Mania >>>>> https://mx5mania.com.au/products/copy-of-mx-5-nc-2-5-litre-engine-conversion-turbo-2005-2013 Power wise I would like about 200kw atw, and of course dose noises, apparently if you keep a stock 2.5 under around 200kwatw the engine and drivetrain will not hate life even when ragging on it a bit Max RPM on the 2.5 is around 6500rpm The turbo MX5 use is something around the disco potato size as  packaging room for the turbo is pretty limited, which will, I believe, give me my power goals I want and not have the turbo either under, or oversized, but the rear housing bit is confusing  It comes with either a 0.64 or 0.86 From my understanding, which so far is based off googling, so make of that what you will 0.64: spools faster = good Makes more EGT heat on boost = bad Less topend power than 0.86 = I'm only looking for 200 atw so that point may be mute????, I don't know, hence my questions  0.86: Spools a "little" slower = how much slower??? remembering 6500 is my max rpm Makes less EGT heat = good Makes a little more power up top = again, power goals is only around 200 Also, this is a street car, so there will not really be any long track sessions, in saying this I would want it so it was happy with at least 3 hot laps at Wakefield Park if the need arises  I already have a fancy pants triple pass radiator, and a oil cooler with thermostat will be getting installed as well Thanks for any information or recommendations you have 👍, and of course, the comments about me wasting money on drive in drive out modifications, or any other snide remarks about my manhood for owning a MX5 🤣    
    • Tape some wool onto the vent then take it for a drive I did this to my reverse cowl and was instantly unhappy, as anything over about 60kph would have the wool enter the engine bay, thus just adding underbonnet pressure and stooging my coolant stack, it did let alot of heat out when stationary though, which really didn't help once the car was moving, with the reverse cowl you could watch the coolant temps cheap up the faster you went on the hwy, I assume it would be alot worse doing track day speed With the vented bonnet (just after the radiator and about 1/3 up the bonnet) on my old R33 the wool on the leading edge sat at about a 45° angle as air poured out of it From looking where your vents are, and their size, I believe you should be fine at speed and air should be evacuated from the engine bay, I think it will be a night and day difference when stuck in traffic though for removing the trapped heat, and not sitting there cooking when parked up after driving around... #convection  Post wool tuft pics and data for science  This beastie is one nice and unique rig, enjoy
    • It is possible to do this stuff for "cheap". But you need to be able to get deals on all the bigger items, and it really helps if you're fully capable of doing your own work. As soon as you're paying retail for new parts, or buying "kits" because you can't fabricate necessary bits and pieces, and if you really need someone else to take the reins of doing the work because you don't have the space/time/skills/confidence to  rip deep into the car and put it back together in a working fashions.....then you pay. And these days, pay means a lot of money. You'd think things would get cheaper, but they don't. They just seem to keep getting more and more expensive.
×
×
  • Create New...