Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Whats a good drift car for under 10k

Hey All,

Recently i have been looking into getting a drift car so far i've been looking into getting an r33 gtst but i am unsure of how reliable they would be on track and how good they would be for drifting. I know a lot of people seem to go with the s chassis but availability in SA seem to be very low and the few that come up are to far out of what i want to spend. some other options for drift cars under the 10k budget would be greatly appreciated. Also i want the car to be a respectable looking car cause it will be used as a weekender.

Cheers

5 hours ago, Anfanee said:

a filthy 180.

ahah i though about that but i want to keep the car as respectable looking as possible so i can drive it on the streets as well as take it to the track. If a decent 180 comes up ill defiantly consider one of those. 

I'm sorry but 'track' and 'reliable' and 'registered' and 'under 10k' cannot co-exist in the same vehicle, at least in anything with forced induction.

I'm happy to be proven otherwise but please have a scan of my105/Tracksales/Carsales/Gumtree/Ebay and report back on what you find

12 hours ago, KiwiRS4T said:

Don't know if you can get them where you are but Laurels and Cefiros are popular budget track cars over here.

Not cheap over here haha

 

R32 or 33 would be the best options

If you can squeeze the budget a bit more maybe a JZX100, probably a dirty word around here though

20 hours ago, V28VX37 said:

I'm sorry but 'track' and 'reliable' and 'registered' and 'under 10k' cannot co-exist in the same vehicle, at least in anything with forced induction.

I'm happy to be proven otherwise but please have a scan of my105/Tracksales/Carsales/Gumtree/Ebay and report back on what you find

Adam Lz on youtube has a 240 that he uses on track and drives it on road. Obviously there is going to be little issues here and there but i just dont want it breaking down every single time i drive it.

20 hours ago, NickRB20 said:

Not cheap over here haha

 

R32 or 33 would be the best options

If you can squeeze the budget a bit more maybe a JZX100, probably a dirty word around here though

yeah would definitely push the budget up a little bit more to have a JZX100. I've seen a couple of decent looking ones on car sales for under 15k which would work with the budget.

It isn’t uncommon to hear someone putting out 600hp out of the VR6 engine in the R32.  With some transmission work and modifications, you could be on your way to having a five-door Lambo killer.

11 hours ago, Harpreet Singh said:

It isn’t uncommon to hear someone putting out 600hp out of the VR6 engine in the R32.  With some transmission work and modifications, you could be on your way to having a five-door Lambo killer.

What does that have to do with drifting for under $10,000?

  • Like 1
On 22/03/2017 at 10:47 PM, Harpreet Singh said:

It isn’t uncommon to hear someone putting out 600hp out of the VR6 engine in the R32.  With some transmission work and modifications, you could be on your way to having a five-door Lambo killer.

You retard.

 

  • Like 1
On 3/26/2017 at 1:32 PM, DJBarnstar said:

VE V8 with an L98. Can have for 7K with bolt ons. Spend 3 K on the cheese rear end and there ya go.

Was going to say this, surprised nobody else had mentioned a cheap V8 commy.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I agree, don't go trusting those trims. As I said, first step is to put the logger away, and do the basics in diagnosis.   I spend plenty of time with data loggers. I also spend plenty of time teaching "technicians" why they need to stop using their data loggers, and learn real diagnostics.   The amount of data logs I play with would probably blow most people away. I don't just use it to diagnose. I log raw CAN data too, as a nice chunk of my job is reverse engineering what automotive manufacturers are doing.
    • I'm aware, but unless you're actually seeing the voltage the ECU is seeing and you're able to verify the sensors are actually working I find it hard to just trust STFT/LTFT. I will say, logging the ECU comes naturally to me because it's one of the lowest effort methods of diagnosis and I do similar things in my day job all the time. Staring at 20+ charts looking for something that isn't quite right isn't for everyone. NDS1 allows you to log almost everything so that's normally what I do and then sort out the data later. 
    • Silly question, as I bet you've checked already, but the motor turns over by hand yes? I suspect Neil has a spare starter, though if not, I believe I have a spare R33 (or two) starter.
    • Yeah just run one of those posts to the Link like GTSBoy said. From google it looks like a "mishimoto boost controller" is a manual boost controller. Since you already have the link just buy any MAC valve and plumb it in where the mishimoto is now. Wires to the solenoid should come from the Link's / standard loom boost control wiring (I guess you have an r32, not sure if it is gtst or gtr, if it is GTR where is a 2 pin connector near the engine bay fuse box/injector resistor for that purpose, assuming the standard boost controller is gone)  
    • No. The ECU's hose is for a connetcion between the plenum (assuming single throttle body, not ITBs) and the ECU's internal MAP sensor. This is the primary load measurement of the ECU - so you need to get this one right. This has NOTHING to do with the boost contol. The wastegate also needs to see a boost signal - but it is actually far better for it NOT TO COME FROM THE PLENUM (again, assuming single TB, and not ITBs). This should come from the turbo's compressor housing (assuming there is a nipple on there, which there might well not be), or on the boost pipe somewhere between the turbo and the TB. On the pipe from the turbo to the intercooler is usually most convenient. The boost controller is then located between that boost source and the wastegate, ACCORDING TO THE CORRECT PLUMBING DRAWING FOR THAT BOOST CONTROLLER. There is no general diagram or instruction that will be correct for every case. Then the other ports on the plenum are for purposes such as Duncan described. If the boost controller has an internal MAP sensor, for a boost display, etc, then it will want to be hooked up there, alongside the ECU and the FPR.
×
×
  • Create New...