S13 Sprint/Time Attack Style Build

[No Crust Racing]

So car aligned up all OK. steering wheel is straight now lol 

Basically ended up with the settings I mentioned above give or take a few .1 of a mm here and there. Didn't quite get to -1.5 rear camber, I reckon something is bent in the hub on one side as it just runs out of adjustment. My 33 was like that and ended up needing a new hub. -1.3 will do.

He used those whiteline adjusters to give me the 3 deg I wanted up front, but at the same time taking some out of the strut top so I have some easy adjustment for more if needed and he mentioned there's good clearance now with the 15mm spacer, he said 4 was doable but cant see me needing it. I haven't checked but will see what the cars appetite for bigger rubber will be when I get it back. 

Ended up with 8.5 degrees front castor 0_0 that seems like a lot? I would have thought 6-7 would be enough, I heard it grab the left guard liner lightly when loading it, I bet it chews through it.. 

Track width looks even now with the spacers also. 

I rang the tuner on the off chance he had space in his workshop and he did so I just took it straight in instead of having to unload and reload to drop it down Monday (I don't own the trailer). 

So the car is now with him and he reckons he'll start looking at it Monday. See how he goes, he's flat out so I'm not expecting miracles plus he has the exhaust adjustments to make. The goal there is just to make the same 190-200rwkw but to smooth out that ugly torque curve and make the car more linear, maybe move the torque curve a little right so it's less aggressive onto boost. 

Nothing further from me for a few days, time to forget about cars. 

[260DET]

Those alignments sound OK, 8.5 caster is a about right for a track car together with 3 to 3.5 negative camber. It may be a bit fussy with damper settings though.

[No Crust Racing]

See how we go. Steering feels little dead in the centre which I think is those high tie rod ends moving in the ball joint before turning the hub.

Hoping it feels magic track sidre but in reality so much has changed that I'm prepared to spend most of my time crusing around dialing things in.

[No Crust Racing]

Double post.

[No Crust Racing]

Wtf is going on lol

 

 

[No Crust Racing]

Not looking good for getting a spot at the track day Was talking with the boys about a test and tune at Winton this month instead, before Winter settles in and it's too wet. 

There's also a Women's track day coming up on the 17th that my partner showed some interest in. I am looking at rails and passenger seat options to see if we can get a seating arrangement worked out for her as my eat is fully fixed. 

Forgot I had a solid steering spacer, dropped that off to the workshop this morning. I think GKtech should sponsor me. 

No update from tuner, but knew he was busy and was not expecting him to start it on Monday as he said. 

What would you preference be for a cheap passenger seat? 

This auction is for 2 seats, rails and some mounting brackets. Could sell second seat? 

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/172686388923?_trksid=p2380057.m570.l5999&_trkparms=gh1g%3DI172686388923.N36.S1.R1.TR4

Or can get this fake Bride for $150 (haven't negotiated yet) and it's local. Comes with drivers rail that I could sell/swap for a passenger one. 

I'm OK with red as my driver seat is a velo podium (version 1 so not as pretty as V2) in black and red. 

I've got a velo magnum 4pt harness for the dreiver side, will get something similar for passenger, 

 

 

 

 

 

[No Crust Racing]

Scratch those seats, will just wait till a nice fixed back frp one comes up, after reading about reclining units​ snapping.

Also, stop the press.

I have a spot for this weekend's track day after some format changes allowed more entries.

Tuner said he had done the exhaust and the steering column bush and was confident no issues getting the tune done.

Awww yeah.

[GTofuS-T]

Good call. Also those "bucket seats" don't even look to offer much side support, they're more suited for hard parking.

[No Crust Racing]

On 5/26/2017 at 4:16 PM, 260DET said:

Those alignments sound OK, 8.5 caster is a about right for a track car together with 3 to 3.5 negative camber. It may be a bit fussy with damper settings though.

Define fussy? 

The shocks are just cheapo BCs which only have basic damper control (and are probs too firm at 8kg front 6kg rear). I have them set to max soft all round already. 

[No Crust Racing]

Car is on the dyno, tuner making progress but ran into an odd fuel cut issue at 4800rpm. 

Noted that Nistune had launch control set for 4800, but didn't think this was enabled. He is going to talk to Nistune. 

On the drive back to the office it occurred to me that factory resetting the SAFC may mean it's got the wrong AFM selected and is outputting the wrong voltage as that's still connected. 

He's calling me back shortly and we'll check that over the phone. 

Sunday draws ever closer. Car no longer sounds like hektik drift pig anymore either. 

 

 

[No Crust Racing]

So, results are in, 192rwkw and 550Nm at 16-17psi - Tuner said mainline almost always reads lower power than dyno dynamics, around 10% or so meaning he pegs this into the low 200s which is odd as the power is 6kw down, but the torque is much higher than previous tune (365Nm)

Torque curve looks a lot smoother now too. cams not touched this time, and were previously set for max response. See how it drives and go from there

Old graph first

.

 

 

VS New Graphs. 

[iruvyouskyrine]

What was the fuel issue?

[No Crust Racing]

"On the drive back to the office it occurred to me that factory resetting the SAFC may mean it's got the wrong AFM selected and is outputting the wrong voltage as that's still connected. "

Was set to 07 in and 07 out (standard CA). Changed to 02 in and 02 out (Z32). 

Lucky I'm such a gun mechanic/problem solver of my own f**k ups... He'd have been there for ever. 

 

[No Crust Racing]

Picked the car up from the tuner and noticed the wheel was mad crooked.

Turns out he misaligned the rack and column by one spline when fitting that solid bush.

Got the car home and into the shed. Fixed that.

Removed the master cylinder and made some adjustments to the booster rod, helped pedal travel but will need another adjustment tomorrow.

Checked oil and noticed some milky frothy residue. Coolant all looked good, no oil, no bubbles.

Praying the fresh headgasket was fine. Dropped oil, spilled it everywhere lol. Oil looked fine, tuner said it'll be from the car having actually done some work after sitting for ages (condensation).

New filter and fresh oil for safety.

Refitted splitter and cover over ecu.

Loaded up car etc. Banged up splitter loading solo in my haste, woops.

Fingers crossed for tomorrow. Car feels very different to me.

See how the old hard RSRs hold up.

[260DET]

On 5/31/2017 at 8:56 AM, ActionDan said:

Define fussy? 

The shocks are just cheapo BCs which only have basic damper control (and are probs too firm at 8kg front 6kg rear). I have them set to max soft all round already. 

Sensitive would be a better word, the closer the suspension gets to just right the more sensitive it becomes to damping adjustment. Or so I've found.

[No Crust Racing]

So, race day update. What a mixed bag. 

• Only managed to basically run the same as my previous PB of a low 59s lap. Though I ran a lot more 59s and all of my other hot laps were 1m flat type deals. Disappointing given the changes. 
• Had to make a number of adjustments to the steering wheel before it was finally "straightish". Cheated by doing this at the boss kit. 
• Car felt breathless and like it had no balls at all, but checking old RaceChrono data showed max top speed on the straight as being basically identical? I forgot to check corner exit speed on the straight so will check to compare. I am either right, its down on power, but corner exit is faster, or I'm wrong and it's all in my head and I'm just used to more power now/the power and torque delivery is more linear and deceiving. Lap times were the same so not sure what to make of this.
• Car pushed bulk oil out the breathers and the oil cap. I was trying my crank case evac kit connected to the dipstick, which was working as shown by the smoke out the rear, but the oil air separator not doing enough as the smoke was a bit much (or old busted turbo?). I will comp test the motor and if it's still healthy will re-work the breather setup, reintroduce the PVC and intake vac sources and get some more connection points to the catch can.
• Car felt more planted in the rear and more forgiving in general, and less bounce mid corner, but still wanted to understeer. Tried different camber settings in smallish increments and 1 small damper setting with basically no change in lap time. Pic of tyres below, after 5yrs, are they just cactus and have no more grip? Front runs out of grip before the rear. Too much swaybar? too stiff coilovers?
• Car was a handful under heavy brakes, locking 1 or both tyres and squirming everywhere. Camber has the most impact on this. Will check ride heights to check corner weighting isn't throwing it out, any other way to stop the lock ups? 
• Tyre pressures were about 21-22psi hot (14deg ambient temp). 
• Pads (TRW) seemed OK, but not a fast track and I have brake ducts on all corners. Given I'm locking up, tyres seem to be the limit? 
• Car pinged a little from mid to high rpm in 3rd and missed/hesitated a little in 3rd gear corners at times. Can't tell if electrical or fuel surge (car has surge tank). Tuner did note fuel pressure was changing with temp and it only seemed to miss/ping after a few laps. Not sure where to go on that one. 
• Managed to somehow win my Class (up to 4L with road tyres - seems not having slicks/semis is what puts me here despite it being a race car) and got some random prizes. Had a laugh. 
• Old mate in a Radical binned it in the top 10 shootout end of the day, sad
• I think I want the seat lower? But that means cutting out the floor pan =\ 
• Had my first off, only minor, but shows I was having a go at least lol 

Tyres. 

Front right. 

Front left

 

Busted Radical 

 

Random Prizes (Beanie, can of some anti static interior spray? Aeroflow catalogue and stickers, aeroflow pen, 2x little block up aeroflow bashing sticks, kids love'em). 

 

Old setup:

Front: Whiteline swaybar, -2.5 camber from strut tops, approx 1mm toe out each side. 

Rear: 32R swaybar, standard diff, -1.3 camber, approx 1mm toe in each side. 

New setup: 

Front: Whiteline swaybar, castor rods on 8.5deg, -3 camber from strut tops/whiteline bolts (mainly bolts as can use strut tops for more or less now), approx 1mm toe out each side. Roll centre adjusters, high misalignment tie rod ends, solid engine and box mounts. 15mm bolt on spacers to match rear increase in track. 

Rear: s14 swaybar, s15 diff and solid bushes, s14 reinforced subframe and solid mounts (angled down at the front for better squat geometry), -1.3 camber, approx 1mm  TOTAL toe in each side, aligner got it wrong and gave me .5 each side. 

Fastest lap is about lap 6-7

 

Bonus pic of an Evo's tyre who forgot to clip down his bonnet, smashed his windscreen, and was driving the wheels of it in general...

 

Short clip of whoops. 

 

Edited June 5, 2017 by ActionDan

[No Crust Racing]

Comp tested at 150-160 acros the board dead cold so that seems fine (172 is brand new and warm). 

Will re-work breather setup and head back to the dyno to work on ping issue. Plus the plugs look unhappy. 

Will also check turbo as it was a $100 second hand unit

Downloaded a copy of my tune and sent to another tuner for review also. 

 

[No Crust Racing]

Convo with a another tuner shed some more light on ping issue. 

Shared that with Silvia tuner, see what he says. 

In chasing an issue on the GT-R It appears I may have used the wrong guage wire for the fuel pumps as the wire is max 15amps and it seems a lot of Walbro's pull up into the 20s when under load. Given the tuner said he say fuel pressure fluctuation, i will re-do it just to be sure. 

A few pics that popped up from the track day, no action shots

[Mitch_Dubya]

jeez i really want to drive this thing

[No Crust Racing]

@Mitch_Dubya Yeah maybe I won't adjust that seat, I don't need someone else going faster in my car

Speaking off the car, plugs and coil packs back in. 

Removed turbo intake and checked turbo, cannot believe this was a $100 "blown" ball bearing turbo, shit is still fresh. No oil. 

 

OK, here's my version eleventy breather setup. 

 

Blue is crank case breather setup.

• Dipstick into can (which allows drain back)
• Left side sump breather (normally into rocker cover) will go via oil air separator into catch can (also baffled can). Can is under vacuum from Morrosso crankcase evac kit. 

Yellow is top end breathing. 

• Rockers tee'd together.
• Into baffled catch can.
• Atmo breather. 

Both ends of the engine can breath, nothing plumbed back into intake. 
See how it goes on the dyno.