Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

18 hours ago, SRS13 said:

Yeah mate been a while! Have had so many things on the go recently. I'm os at the moment on holiday.

The car made 512rwk on 34psi with full boost at 4300rpm on JEM dyno (conservative tune) so quite happy!

Still more things to do as there always is. Plan on taking it to the track soon, hence the AR1 interest. All in time!

Just a lazy 5600+rwkw! What turbo did you end up with? Must be insane to drive :D

17 hours ago, Anfanee said:

Definitely do bolt on flares Dan. Will look Mad. Looking mad is worth at least what... 10%? 

Looking mad is worth heaps more dude :D I just dont want massive flares on wheels that only just sit outside the guards, will look homo. 

16 hours ago, SRS13 said:

I've done the bolt on flares on my car Dan. It fits the 10.5 wide wheels with 295. I think they are 40 and 50mm or 50 and 60mm??

J

Yeah I'm only running 9" and 255. I kind just need a 20mm flare which is hard to find as that's usually bolt on overfender territory which i don't like. 

52 minutes ago, ActionDan said:

Just a lazy 5600+rwkw! What turbo did you end up with? Must be insane to drive

Looking mad is worth heaps more dude  I just dont want massive flares on wheels that only just sit outside the guards, will look homo. 

Yeah I'm only running 9" and 255. I kind just need a 20mm flare which is hard to find as that's usually bolt on overfender territory which i don't like. 

Go massive flares, do a giant burnout to ruin the new rubber you have, hit a gutter and destroy those rims.

Buy new larger rims and rubber. 

You're welcome, I'm a solutions man. 

I've only driven it on 20psi and that was 4th gear hit on the freeway. I haven't turned it up yet! Quick enough lol

It's a 6466 T4 twin scroll. Fantastic response for 4 cylinder and makes top power. There's still heaps more in it but I'm happy for now.

Looked at some pics over the weekend and think I prefer to look of rolled/flared guards vs bolt on flares. 

Spoke to panel beater and he said we can easily pull/flare enough to get the coverage but expect the paint to crack, as Hadouken said. 

Given I wouldn't mind painting it later anyway and the rest of the car is already covered in blemishes, I will probs go that way. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Diagnosing with and without is mostly the same. You need to know, as Duncan asked, and what conditions. Car hot, cold, idling, driving, if while driving what rpms, is when you're varying, or is it when held constant.   From there it's understanding what can be causing it. Starting with pretending all of the sensors are correct. Which means if it's going rich, why would it be thinking more air is going in than it is, and under what conditions. So things like if only when under boost, it could be be a loose intake piping joint. It's just understanding the system, and understanding when/how the problem occurs, and then if it's only occuring in specific scenarios, what can be causing it.   ECU specifically, if it's aftermarket, it'll have software you can use, for the Skylines on factory ECU, there is Nissan Consult you can use. Most ECUs have a way to get data from them.
    • How do you go about diagnosing ecu's that don't have data logging, is it more experience at that point and just trying out things that you think will fix the issue?
    • Stock O2 are basically useless beyond anything at stoich. Any misfire will also be seen as lean. The stock O2 also read a collective exhaust gas volume, not each cylinder. Sputtering and missing means not each cycle is firing, and some are. Which means even if rich, as shit, on cylinders as they miss, they'll read lean, but the cylinders that did fire will read rich, and combined, well, they can read anything from rich to lean.   Start with the basics before even going looking at sensor values.   Edit: I say the above, and that's coming from the guy with a few thousand dollars worth of scan tools sitting right beside me right now that I use frequently for my job.
    • I just finished up a manual swap and I have a 1999 S2 AWD automatic in my garage, depending on where you are located. I'm in the the midwest of the US.
    • I’ve heard it can be done, you need to redrill the holes where they bolt to the chassis and apart from that they are the same. I’ve never done it or know anyone personally that has, it’s just something I’ve heard 
×
×
  • Create New...