Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Change to the V band.  Effort is worthwhile.

30mm flares might get you out of trouble for now but wider set would have given you room for future changes.  You're going to need to use tin snips on the guards anyway, and good clearance helps when the fronts move up/down and lock to lock.  Hint - flares to suit 240Z are remarkably close to what's required on these things.

All steps forward though, looking good.

I don't like big flares and 255 is plenty.

The issue is less vband and more T3 manifold. I can run an adapter I guess but didn't want to change manifold just for this turbo when I wanna have it cut up for a ext gate flange anyway.

  • 3 weeks later...

Yep, little flares. Didn't want big ones so had to wait for OS shipping to find some smaller ones. 

These:http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Universal-JDM-Fender-Flares-Wheel-Arch-1-2inch-30mm-4pcs-Wide-set-ABS-Plastic/282457560738?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

As you can see from the pics on the car, they are not huge. 

  • 1 month later...

So as with everything, when it comes time to actually do the job, you run into hassles. 

Flares were no different so they are not on the car just yet, but progress has been made and hopefully they will be fitted this weekend.

On the back of the flare, you have a right angle mounting surface behind the recessed sections. These will work really well on guards that are very flat, silvia guards, especially the front are very much not flat/right angles to the ground. 

In trimming these back to the point where you can get the flare to sit nicely on each guard you basically take that mounting surface out completely so we'll be using Sikaflex as we did with body kit and as seen on most modern car mouldings. Have also marked the guards with the panel beater so we know where they'll get trimmed. 

Spoke to Nistune and looked at doco in how they wire in flex fuel capability and could see that with a simple switch, I could give the ECU the 5V input it wants and have dual map capability. The CA ECU has a 5V point you can use that's left over from the removal of bits when the Nistune goes in. I managed to remove the existing wire shielding and solder in some new ones, tested OK.

Have been wiring in some new switches and lights for some other things and have left a littler space on the panel for another switch for a future project. 

Next track day is the 26th, I'm hoping to have the flares on so I can use the new tyres, if not can just run the old rubber again as there's still tread on those. 


 

20171112_152427.jpg

20171111_182658.jpg

20171111_182651.jpg

20171111_182357.jpg

20171112_144504.jpg

20171112_161830.jpg

20171112_201323 - Copy.jpg

Painful job, but flares and wheels are on, and fouling shit of course!

For anyone that's done it, you know how fun it is working with Sikaflex. 

Guards all cut, fronts flared up under the plastic flare, rears cut higher and sealed up. 

Inner seam on chassis rail cut back and sealed up and I'm now working through trying to cut/tuck as much of the guard liner as possible to keep some element of protection for the looms, oil cooler, BOV etc. 

Also had some scrap metal and some race tape so made a quality radiator air guide, Tucks into the grill nicely. 

 

 

20171119_165701.jpg

20171119_165644.jpg

20171119_165624.jpg

20171119_165522.jpg

20171117_222815.jpg

20171117_224537.jpg

20171117_225040.jpg

Edited by ActionDan

So, a grinder, sledgehammer, some self tappers, and cable ties later I have done all I think I can for now in terms of guard clearance. 

Folded the seam down at the back of the guard and clearanced the front tub section up. Kept as much of the liner in where it was protecting the loom. 

Just need to block up the moroso crankcase evac kit valve to stop that exhaust leak and we're good for Sunday. Car is looking Ricetastic now with 40mm more track. 

Forum has disabled media sharing? 

 

Edited by ActionDan

Footage from yesterday is useless as I accidentally aimed the GoPro at the revision mirror so that takes up most of the frame, as does my serious expression. Quality is good though so I'm happy with the new camera setup. Wouldn't mind a better GPS as there's some syncing issues with my older 5hz model. 

Anyway, shaved off 2 tenths from the PB and had a class win, won a shirt. That's 3 from 3. 

Was a very mixed day with rain all over the place as some interesting groupings (I almost hit 1 guy a few times as he just wasn't watching his mirrors). 

First session was wet and the car misfired like a bitch, almost rear ended someone and drove off track to avoid, good times. Coulnd't find the cause of the misfire, but removed and reseated all connections, checked all hoses etc and it just went away 0_0

Second session was dry and clear track so that was the PB. 3rd session I almost hit people again and never got a clean lap then the coolant line to the turbo broke away from the fitting and I couldn't be assed trying to fix it given I was confident the time would be enough and the rain kept coming and going. 

Was expecting more from the AR1s, they are wider and softer than the RS-R. I can see in my footage there's time to be had though so I'm confident I'll go faster on them next year, but by that stage I'll have replaced this turbo so it'll be impossible to tell. 

I think I ran them too low, about 34psi hot. They seem to want higher pressures but I didn't get a chance to test, also firmer damper settings than I normally run. 

Was yet another great day out and a good result for the little CA that can :)

 

20171126_204908.jpg

20171126_205020.jpg

20171126_204724.jpg

20171126_204753.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy on your suggestion on another thread I had a look at those injectors and ended up getting them because of the quality.  Got the expensive ones.  
    • Hey guys been looking everywhere to try and find the correct gtr hood latch support part number but only found the first half and when I search with that number it sends me to an r34. The first part I found was 62515. If anyone could help me with the rest then I’d really appreciate it. Or if there’s some alternative hood latch support that would work even better cause I can’t find any for sale. (Searched on upgarage, partsouq,buyee,rhdjapan) 
    • If you've only done the upper control arms on the rear, AND you have changed their length (by more than about 1mm) to set the camber you want, then you will definitely need/want to install traction arms also. Adjusting the camber arms on their own WILL introduce bump steer and make the car unpleasant to drive. Most owners have no idea that their car could behave infinitely better than what they put up with. I'm not entirely sure what the Stageas need, but I am thinking that unless you have massive front spring rates and pretty soft rear springs, you have waaaay too much rear bar. Oversteer city, in my estimation. Combined with possible excessive bump steer from maladjusted arms, that could be a recipe for nastiness. ATR43SS2 is not a highflow. It is an outright replacement turbo. It's a little bit bigger than the largest highflow profile that Tao does. Probably a solid 300rwkW turbo where the bigger highflows will be about 30-40rwkW less. Nevertheless, we're only talking about ~300 rwkW, which is well within the abilities of the stock ECu to run with a Nistune on board. I would do so without hesitation - and I will be doing so when I get my finger out and actually get the injectors and AFM installed. But, if you would prefer to drop a whole lot more money on the ECU side, then I suspect you're looking at Haltech. The Haltech fanbois here will all spout on about all the available engine protection you can have, that you can't have with the Nistune option. And they're right. But it doesn't really come for free either. You will spend more money on extra sensors and the like, plus the work to install them. If the engine was built and therefore represented a big investment to protect, then I'd say definitely do it. If you view the current (and forever into the future) shortage of replacement engines as something to prompt similar protection, then also, do it. If you see a destroyed RB25 as an opportunity to put in a Mercedes or other V12 (like I kinda do)... then your perception of the risk/reward might differ. These are good injectors. You can also get a "better" set of the same with more flow matching, for more $$. 1000cc is where you will want to be. You will need an R35 AFM and adapter tube if you want to stay with Nistuned stock ECU. Otherwise, if going Haltech, you can ignore. As for intercooler. Just about anything will do. You're only talking about ~300rwkW. Just put a big core in there. Be aware that return flows do add significant pressure drop and will cost power and will make the turbo work harder to achieve the same goals. If you can manage a proper crossflow, do it. I'm keeping my very good return flow because I'm only expecting to be in the ~250rwkW range, and will live with whatever outcome I get.
    • I have a heap that i have collected if you want some authentic ones still. Pm me if your interested!
×
×
  • Create New...