Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Big month as usual, heaps going on but have got these new pics and minor updates.

Girdle was .02mm out before being skimmed.

He's seen them up to .04mm so was happy with that.

Crank needs a final round of polishing but balanced up well, front main needed a little work he tells me.

Haven't touched the shed, concrete still curing. 

received_1048831168955631.jpeg

received_200414621736646.jpeg

  • Like 4
  • 3 weeks later...

Felt bad about the Silvia so jacked the rear and let it turn tyres for a bit then revved it up to blow some smoke out and make turbo noises. 

20210117_094123.thumb.jpg.bc383fe4cdcb5c39d3fff997156b7218.jpg

Gave the engine bay a little glance and noticed an oil breather line is splitting, was fairly new aeroflow 400 series hose so that's a bit lame. 

Given it's been like 2yrs, the car probs needs new fluids etc etc etc so I suppose I better work out wtf I am gonna do with it - put engine in it or something else. 

Putting the engine in this car will possible mean;
- Box swap to handle it (considered ZF8HP, but CD009 or something would be the cheaper/easier swap)
- Maybe diff swap as I have no idea how much abuse s15 helica can take.
- Fuel system upgrade.
- Oil and intercooler upgrade possibly? 
- New ECU and new loom.
- Better brakes.
- 5 stud conversion so I can run 10" wide rims to use the slicks all the other club guys run for cheap.
- Wider guards to fit said slicks.
- Should do a cage upgrade as there's only a half cage in there. 

That's not including "niceties" like a coat of paint and redo'ing the  front splitter which is a little damaged.

That list is partly, and being generally busy, is partly why the car has sat so long. It puts me off a bit. 

Went and measure up shed for wiring/water etc but next step will be to clean/wash the slab and seal it. 

Here's the view from inside, roller door is 5m x 3.2m20210117_094240.thumb.jpg.b60bc4c56de55ae5d75a5bd94bffbd18.jpg20210117_094311.thumb.jpg.10874083460bdfb2a2052f3af134cb31.jpg

  • Like 4

What do you guys think of this value wise?

S15 180SX Rolling Shell

Exhaust is still there, nothing special fuel system wise just in tank pump. Comes with no rims. 

I wanted to do mine white, I like s15 + 180SX

Widebody done, 5 stud done, better cage done. 

Brakes no better than mine though, dunno how S15 subframe stacks up to GT-R, but mine is reinforced, that one isn't. 



 

 

Keep going with what you have at least you know the work done so far is good and eveything is there.
S15 subframe is better as gtr still hicas.
Get that motor in, 5 stud with 350/370 front brakes ($2000), good mechanical diff(1000-1500 has @Kinkstaahgot one for sale still?) and quality cage (2500-4000) & tyres (1200-2000), spend the rest on event entry.

I am sure some 18 year old would pay big bucks for the CA18 :4_joy:
 

LOL robbo, I have done most of the work... so to say it's "good" is a big assumption. Fair I do know what's been done, but It's by no means top shelf in any regard. 

You're forgetting a box, a fuel system, ECU, tuning, exhaust/intercooler fab work, oil cooler upgrade etc etc

 

  • Haha 1

I would be keeping your current setup as still need to do all that in another car you bought. 
Still think a 350/370z would be good for you, cheaper than a clapped out s chassis and already good brakes & gearbox, working AC, cruise control and can fit big wheels easily. Just add a good diff and seat.

One of the best bits of work on that 180
Capture.JPG.bd9f0f79dc67d4c89375fce20864d73f.JPG

If wanting a 180 chassis that is sorted body wise(seam welded,new bushes, gtr diff, brembos, braced cradle & castor boxes) PM me as I am selling one of mine soon so can mod the 370z.

Sat down with a good old excel last night and it's clear to me, buying another car is the most cost effective method, regardless of which shell I end up putting the engine in. 

Ideally I'd put it in my car for the history and all that, but it will just depend on what I come across. 

So keep your eyes out for something suitable - big brakes, cd009 or z33 box, good diff, wide, 10" rims, and ideally something SR based so I can re-use parts of the hot/cold side maybe? Full cage good if bolt in or the shell is better than mine. 

In the meantime, I'll press on with the shed, get a hoist in. 

  • Like 1
10 minutes ago, robbo_rb180 said:

The S15 is tasty!

I spoke to him about the S13, standard box, basic brakes, and 30k. 

I understand it includes spares and a trailer though but 30 seems rich for it TBH. 

I'll hit him up for a more complete list. 

Edited by ActionDan
22 minutes ago, ActionDan said:

The S15 is tasty!

I spoke to him about the S13, standard box, basic brakes, and 30k. 

I understand it includes spares and a trailer though but 30 seems rich for it TBH. 

I'll hit him up for a more complete list. 

Hey mate tried to PM you, wasn't able to. I might have something you could be interested in.

Send me a PM.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I drive the Tiguan much harder than the Skyline in all conditions, because it just grips and hooks, unlike the R33 shit box
    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
×
×
  • Create New...