S13 Sprint/Time Attack Style Build

[No Crust Racing]

mmm, see what he says. I bought the springs and retainers from kelford, the blloody expensive beehive pecaloy springs so I would hope they are compatible.

I'll flick them an email for another opinion. 

[No Crust Racing]

Quick reply, not sure what else I really expected... 

 

[BakemonoRicer]

What valves seats are you using Dan? The stock ones can crack when combined with O/S valves

I will be using NASCAR valve seat rings with chromoly retainers.... definitely not titanium for my build, and no berrylium seat rings due to its incompatibility with E85

[robbo_rb180]

there was a thread on NS around 2013/2014 on titanium retainers cracking was likely quality and how they were being used that caused the problems.


 

[No Crust Racing]

Continued the chat with Kelford.

Sent him pic of the retainers in question. 

"It’s hard to see in those pics but that does look a little rough.

Titanium retainers wear when rubbing on a steel spring and base, there’s no escaping that. But if everything is under control then it’s hard to determine “normal” wear. I’ve had some of our retainers in my evo for about 30,000kms now and it’s had a hiding and you can see witness marks from where it’s been rubbing, but nothing I would call “wear” per se.

I haven’t got a hard and fast number for you sorry mate."

Asked if there was any special service interval or checks needed etc. 

"Nothing written in blood. We have some race teams that check spring tension every round and others that check every season. We don’t have failures so I haven’t got a timeline.

We know what the retainer and spring have to control since we design both.  Your setup is a matched combo of cams , springs, and retainers. Where some other companies have problems is that they don’t design cams or even make them at all so they try to cover too many bases with one product and then they maybe get a spring that doesn’t cut it and it’s the poor retainer that cops it."

Consensus seems to be I should be fine. 

Benny I didn't go oversized valves due to the increased risk of cracking in the head, I went Supertech valves for the better materials, SS and Iconel, but standard P11 sizes. P11 specifically for the thicker/stronger stem size but put into the better flowing P12 head (which also has the extra cooling jacket in it and flows more, but that cooling jacket means if you want max margin for safety you don't oversize the valves).

It's having chambers CNC'd ports are all  being ported as well so our heads are quite different. DET/VE head flow characteristics are very different stock, once ported even more so.

As for seats, standard were used in this as P12 seats are more than adequate for the application so says the builder and Kelford and that was knowing full well I was happy to spend if it needed it. 

Dale hopes to collect the head today he reckons. I'm keen for some pics. 

 

[BakemonoRicer]

12 hours ago, ActionDan said:

Continued the chat with Kelford.

Sent him pic of the retainers in question. 

"It’s hard to see in those pics but that does look a little rough.

Titanium retainers wear when rubbing on a steel spring and base, there’s no escaping that. But if everything is under control then it’s hard to determine “normal” wear. I’ve had some of our retainers in my evo for about 30,000kms now and it’s had a hiding and you can see witness marks from where it’s been rubbing, but nothing I would call “wear” per se.

I haven’t got a hard and fast number for you sorry mate."

Asked if there was any special service interval or checks needed etc. 

"Nothing written in blood. We have some race teams that check spring tension every round and others that check every season. We don’t have failures so I haven’t got a timeline.

We know what the retainer and spring have to control since we design both.  Your setup is a matched combo of cams , springs, and retainers. Where some other companies have problems is that they don’t design cams or even make them at all so they try to cover too many bases with one product and then they maybe get a spring that doesn’t cut it and it’s the poor retainer that cops it."

Consensus seems to be I should be fine. 

Benny I didn't go oversized valves due to the increased risk of cracking in the head, I went Supertech valves for the better materials, SS and Iconel, but standard P11 sizes. P11 specifically for the thicker/stronger stem size but put into the better flowing P12 head (which also has the extra cooling jacket in it and flows more, but that cooling jacket means if you want max margin for safety you don't oversize the valves).

It's having chambers CNC'd ports are all  being ported as well so our heads are quite different. DET/VE head flow characteristics are very different stock, once ported even more so.

As for seats, standard were used in this as P12 seats are more than adequate for the application so says the builder and Kelford and that was knowing full well I was happy to spend if it needed it. 

Dale hopes to collect the head today he reckons. I'm keen for some pics. 

 

Did Dale remove the squish pads in the head?

Also, I'm not talking about my DET Build

Something else is in progress....

[No Crust Racing]

Update your build thread, I'm sure it'll be megadon, you always go extra large Keen to see a 1000hp SR so someone has a chance to keep up with the K swaps lol

 

Received some pics of the CNC work tonight, looks good to my untrained eye, but I will post pics when it's complete. 

 

 

 

[No Crust Racing]

Sooo after almost 100m of tape, the insulation is now finished to my standards. It comes with double sided tape on it to hold each piece to the next, but I remember from last time it doesn't handle the heat cycling well and fails, then you get gaps as can be see in one of the pics below, starting already. 

If you leave it too long and you get a layer of dust etc on the surface it's then much harder to get good adhesion with the better tape so I went ahead and just did the whole shed pre-emptively. Also cut out a couple inserts for the whirlybirds for winter mode to keep the heat in.

Also going to replace the pot belly, which never impressed me much, with a fan assisted Coonara (which even has a secondary burn tube in it) because I like watching the flames and it'll put put more heat more easily. I could add a damper and secondary burn to the pot belly, but wood heaters are by and large just a lot more efficient. 

Plus random ladder shot of Silvia because I was up there so much. 

 

 

 

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

Must say, Ize jelly

[Duncan]

Looks good, I've got the same insulation in the garage (sans tape) and it is the warmest building on the property.

I've resisted putting a wood burner in the work shed because it is kind of a statement that I'd rather spend hours out there at night than back in the house...they are excellent/cheap but not quick to get up to temp....instead I just freeze my arse off all day and slink back into the house before it gets too cold at night

[No Crust Racing]

Pot belly might take hours but a proper wood heater doesn't, we are mostly wood heating in the house so I'm very comfortable with how to use them.

It's actually mostly for social gatherings. Watching racing, pool/table tennis, beers with the boys etc.

I don't recall ever putting one on to work, I just wear a jumper and keep moving lol

[No Crust Racing]

No Crust Fabrication hard at it doing some maintenance on the Coonara before it goes in. 

Burn tube was toast, made a new one and fitted after straightening the baffle. 3 out of 5 welds were nice, the other 2 were ugly AF but seemingly strong - 3mm steel so quite forgiving for the learner that I am (this is my 2nd or 3rd ever welding project). 

Front door looks like it might have seen a little water damage from storage or maybe just metal fatigue from age. Cut that section out and made a new piece, welding in is proving a little harder as I was putting holes in both materials even on my lowest setting, it's only 1 to 1.6mm though. Spoke with a mate of mine who said you just wanna tack it, move to another section, tack again etc and continue as the metal will heat up too quickly then blow holes through. 

I have the piece "in" but it's not pretty, spent some time cleaning up that work then will give it another pass and tidy it up again. 

Going to give the heater a once over with a sanding disc and smash a coat of high temp on it for good measure. 

[No Crust Racing]

Door section repaired, just need to tack in a couple sections that set the height of the glass and I'm right to start cleaning the unit for a lick of paint. 

This was quite interesting/challenging working with thinner materials, needing to tack, move, tack, move.

I noticed that lower section of the door has not got a light curve in it from the process, should be fine but might need a gentle twig to get it back. Will have to clamp it down properly next time. 

Also the rust that came off when sanding/moving it etc seems to have stained the floor, as in still lightly visible after a basic wipe over. See if it wipes up with a basic cleaner/water/whatever. I also dropped a piece of steel and chipped the concrete, shed is no longer virgin.

Dale tells me th head should be back hopefully this week, the Sydney lockdown causing grief. 

[No Crust Racing]

Heater coming along, just waiting on door glass seal now and we are good to go.

Got a dry day over the weekend so chucked the flue in. Hoping to christen it this weekend with the boys in the shed for some drinks but lockdown looms. 

Bought myself a drill attached nibbler for this job, can't say it worked that well on the corrugated metal, hammers through it until the angle changes too much though, ended up cutting the whole out in sections then using the grinder to clean/final shape. 

Head is still at the CNC shop, have seen some progress pics but bloody hell is it slow progress. 

Edited July 19, 2021 by ActionDan

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

I need a shed like that one day!

[No Crust Racing]

When you're done making big bucks in the city you can move regional and live like a king

That seems to be the way here, which makes it harder for people who were always regional, like me, to afford to buy the houses because you city folk are buying them all up lol 

 

 

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

haha I have a plan to do something like that one day, maybe not regional but semi regional

[No Crust Racing]

Finished the door, test run went well, and final shed certificate acquired  

No smoke leaks around the door, no water leaks around the flue. 

[Roy]

Holy titty f**k... solid work on the shed and brokers engine!!!

[No Crust Racing]

Cheers mate, where you been?

Just come up from moving boxes from old shed to new. 

Still plenty to do, just taking my time.