S13 Sprint/Time Attack Style Build

[No Crust Racing]

On 8/27/2021 at 9:04 AM, robbo_rb180 said:

Good effort getting it out. Always good to look how everything looks after a few years. 

The Nissan auto is good enough to daily. Had a look at those videos and it looks like the zf is a great thing for track, will look to see if there is a way to have a "clutch" as still want the ability to go drifting. 

Ahh I get you now, from what I understand, the drift cars all go DCT for that reason. 

[Duncan]

On 27/08/2021 at 8:40 AM, ActionDan said:

...Engine bay is filthy and I've learned alot about what I would and wouldn't do again mods/repair wise on this engine seeing how some stuff has held up or not.  ...

 

Well the good news, is after putting everything back clean next time, as a track only car it will be much nicer to work on in the future (not always true with rally cars, and definitely not for dirt rally cars)

The other thing I (re)learn every time I take the engine out, is that what looked simple and good for a mod (eg oil cooler line routing or additional wiring) can be a disaster when you go to take the engine out and realise you have gone under/over/around the same part you need to remove, and you don't have a connector to pull it apart....

[No Crust Racing]

On 8/27/2021 at 9:29 AM, Duncan said:

Well the good news, is after putting everything back clean next time, as a track only car it will be much nicer to work on in the future (not always true with rally cars, and definitely not for dirt rally cars)

The other thing I (re)learn every time I take the engine out, is that what looked simple and good for a mod (eg oil cooler line routing or additional wiring) can be a disaster when you go to take the engine out and realise you have gone under/over/around the same part you need to remove, and you don't have a connector to pull it apart....

Hah, this wasn't an issue thankfully as I was always ultra anal about routing, but there were some remnants of street car life to deal with.

I ended up having to just cut one of the rubber lines from the sandwich plate too, I could not get the hose off the press on fittings for the life of me. 

[No Crust Racing]

ECU and loom out which included removing the SAFC2 from the loom, which was annoying. 

Heater box etc out for easy access, don't think it will be fun to put back in as the little rod assembly fell off so I'll have to see how that works. 

I remembered I removed the heater core years back (for weight savings yo) and now I'm wondering if I should source another and reinstall for de-fog or something but I've never had an issue in that respect, thoughts?

Who here has made their own loom? I'm on the fence about whether I make one or buy one as I don't think I wanna use the factory SR one. 

Just need to pop the shifter back in the box, give it all a quick degrease, split the box from the engine then start to arrange shipping (unless he wants the brakes, we'll see). 

Those dollies are proving quite helpful to I've decided. 


 

[Duncan]

I rewired about 60% of my GTR when I put the haltech and smartwire PDM in.  I did remove a fair bit but it is amazing how much you still need for a road legal car (lights, windows, main power distribution/battery etc). I know the S13/SR is a lot simpler but there is still a hell of a lot to it.

I enjoyed the process and learning but I don't think the outcome is any better than a new factory or premade loom.  And buying must be a lot cheaper once you consider off off costs like specialist tools, connectors, I used milspec wire, needed a labeller, specialist heatshrink, etc etc all adds up.

[robbo_rb180]

done my engine loom as went wire in and wanted to learn how to make a quality loom. Not cheap especially if you factor your own time as Duncan mention.

Done a few body looms for friends and not worth the effort if what you have works keep it just depin what  your not using.

[No Crust Racing]

Cheers, body loom stays, it was just the engine loom. A mate of mine did his and reckons the loom itself was only $250 worth of materials etc but that he easily spent 24hrs of time on it (and many beers). Said it could be done in 4-8hrs if he wasn't f**king around. 

Can't see how it would be "that" cheap unless he had some of the tools etc already. I've got some decent DC gear (for solar), but all for bigger stuff (crimpers, strippers etc) nothing for pinning/de-pinning or working on really small stuff. 

Hmm

Gave the top end of the engine a wipe over/tidy up last night and will degrease/pressure wash the bottom half ouside on the weekend, wanted to do the top by hand to avoid issues with plugs etc.

Got my oil filter relo and gearbox mount off t and started talking to the buyer about the logistics of freighting it all which I think will happen next week.

If I get time this week I'll pull the seats and get the cage out so it can be tidied up and sold then I can start thinking about dropping the car off for the cage work. 

I know I will go to front and rear towers, but I'm on the fence about triangulating the towers to the dash bar/firewall area as it apparently causes issues with the wiper setup and can be a pain for brakes/plenum etc etc. 

I was thinking maybe forgo that, but modify the castor arm mounts Nismo style, boxed and with the rod between them to support the bottom of the chassis rails and leave the strut brace to take care of the tops as best it can? As that's something I can DIY I reckon. 


 

[No Crust Racing]

Feels weird... Cya mate!

Dropped off to depot this morning. 

[Duncan]

nice racks!

[No Crust Racing]

Got a little bit done. Feels like every step forward is creating mountains of new work for later though, future Dan will be upset. 

Managed to remove the cage and the dash without damaging everything. 

Seems S13 dash is worth a bit now so I wont put cage holes in it. Looking for cheap JDM dashes to cut up or I might just box up the dash bar/vents etc in a basic stainless/aluminium box and call it a day. Sounds imple but I looked at a few and there's decent work in it plus cost of materials. I only hae some thin stainless sheet on hand, not thick enough for a dash. 

Found an R34 GT Dash for $100 locally (which seems cheap compared to all over dashes) but he tells me it's only 1.3m wide where as mine is 1.37m, dunno how Silvia ends up with wider dash when door cards look similarly thin? 

Front and rear quarter glass need to come out also so I'll look at that shortly, though I think I still need to clear some space in the dash area. 

I do not enjoy working with 30+ yr old semi valuable Nissan plastics.. 

Talk to me about vents/fans for race cars. How much do I leave in? I do still have the heater box and core It seems too. I was also kinda thinking I just leave the power windows until they stop working. 

I have long since thrown out/given away the fan control module though I think, woops. 

 

Edited September 29, 2021 by ActionDan

[robbo_rb180]

Hunt down a cracked s13 dash, sand it, fill the cracks with bog and then a coat of resin with black tint and then use an eBay kit to flock it. 

No need to keep heater/fan box just run plexi rear quarters with a duct to keep fresh air on you. 

Don't worry about the steps backwards be worth all the work once it's done 

[No Crust Racing]

I already bought the R34 dash, for $100 I couldn't say no lol 

See how it goes. 

[Duncan]

assuming there is no class rule requiring a dash, something simple in the centre console with sheet metal/carbon fibre sheet to hold any required gauges and switches is the go, plus something to mount the dash gauges if you need them.

unless you are looking to win auto salon, you don't need to enclose the dash or have anything on the passenger side except the dash support bar or it's roll cage replacement.

heating has never really been a problem in our car when you are wearing multi layer flame proof, but cooling is. I'm not sure that a fan would make much difference but if you have a way to keep it an switch just the fan on/off full that could help.

We have a heated windscreen for defogging at rallies but at the track that is almost never an issue either; if you are fogging up just let it sit with windows open for a bit before going out and carry a clean rag somewhere. I removed but am replacing the rear demister circuit now because that is impossible to keep clear at rallies when driving between stages

[No Crust Racing]

Fair points Duncan, I will have a centre stack and some dash gauges and could build something but for a $100 I just grabbed a 34 GT dash as it's a nice basic dash I can easily cut modify and saves me a bulk of work. 

Weight is not really an issue, dashes are light and the car will be plenty fast. 

Given I have to remove the rear quarter glass for the cage, I considered Perspex with naca ducts (1 in and 1 out) to get air flow through the cabin, but can also leave the fan box in if needed. 

We'll see how it looks when it gets here. 

 

Edited October 12, 2021 by ActionDan

[Duncan]

On 13/10/2021 at 9:52 AM, ActionDan said:

.....the car will be plenty fast. 

Just saving this for future re-quoting.

Yeah the airbox with a power override might help. I'm not convinced a naca duct is a better idea than window open a little (or totally) on a hot day, they were more for cars without power windows or even totally fixed windows. (unless of course you are ducting it through an air con direct to your helmet super car style....).  Cool suit is awesome if heat is a real problem.

[No Crust Racing]

Oh yeah, i still have power windows... 

Plenty of air for me lol 

plenty fast for my driving talent Duncan, i have spent 95% of my car hobby time talking about/researching/buying/stuff around and the other 5% doing actual laps... 

[Jasoncauser]

one of the guys at work made one of these for no particular reason with his 3d printer.

said it cost like under 1 dollar to make haha

ebay search $70 ish


probably could get him to make stuff if guys are interested a hell of a lot cheaprer that that haha

would still need the perspex window to go into though

[No Crust Racing]

I will only go perspex if I break mine removing them as they are encapsulated and hard to remove apparently (sorry If i said that alreayd, cannot be bothered scrolling back). . 

[No Crust Racing]

Old cage is gone, will get serious about listing the dash and interior, wheels are for sale also then will get a 5 stud swap and some 18x10 and work out what impact that has on the bodywork (flares/wide etc). 

 

[No Crust Racing]

Wheels gone, got a grand for those with the old AR1s, not too shaddy IMO. Bought this kit but had to buy it separately from 2 different suppliers as neither had the full set, so 730 posted vs like 620 or something, that pained me more than it should have, paying retail is bad enough... 

Hope the bearings aren't shit. Trying to find good used 5 stud gear was retarded, this market is cooked.

ZSS Hub Conversion Kit 5x114.3 (Front & Rear Set) - Nissan S13 Silvia/ – Just Jap

Looking a bit sad now lol

Edited October 19, 2021 by ActionDan