S13 Sprint/Time Attack Style Build

[No Crust Racing]

I guess it's a sign I'll change those bushes, this came up on Market place so snapped it up

[Duncan]

good call...you don't need them often but they are invaluable when you do

[No Crust Racing]

I can use it to replace all the bushes as I'm going on the car then sell it on easily enough. 

$180 for 20T is a good buy IMO. 

 

 

[No Crust Racing]

Made some progress on the knuckle, have all the bushes out of one of them at least, bit of a learning curve in how to position the knuckle in the press and support it. 

That angled arm was a pain the socket appeared to be going in squarely but appears to have jagged the edge in one spot so I will have to clean up that burr. 

The noise it makes when the bush starts to give is a bit disconcerting lol I stood off to the side and had some safety glasses on. 

Also as per my other thread, HFM rotors, good bad ugly? 

HFM.Parts 324mm Front Two Piece Rotors Suits: 350Z Z33, Skyline V35

 

[Duncan]

yeah I always use safety squints when using the press, and have a collection of big sockets and random bits to try and get the parts to sit the way they need to. They are a PITA but still easier than taking every job to a shop

I've never used HFM 2 part rotors, but have used both the DBA ones and ATTKD/D2/whatever ones and they have been fine. They never seem to quite deliver on being cheaper at replacement time to just do the ring though

[No Crust Racing]

  On 17/11/2021 at 9:16 PM, Duncan said:

yeah I always use safety squints when using the press, and have a collection of big sockets and random bits to try and get the parts to sit the way they need to. They are a PITA but still easier than taking every job to a shop

I've never used HFM 2 part rotors, but have used both the DBA ones and ATTKD/D2/whatever ones and they have been fine. They never seem to quite deliver on being cheaper at replacement time to just do the ring though

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Can't run the Attakd it seems, they don't do a 350z rotor which is a different hat height according to the specs i can find on 33R Vs 350Z rotors. 

I'm inclined to give them a go, if they are shit I'll try something else. I've always liked a bit of R&D

[Duncan]

Yeah the Z brembos definitely have a different offset for the disc to R/S stuff, but I'm sure JJ could hook you up with the right ones...hell they even had them for my F50 Cima

[No Crust Racing]

I'll ask, I don't mind giving the HFMs a try, but I also won't say no to Attkd as they have been tested ,ore from what I can see. 

[DaymoR32]

  On 17/11/2021 at 9:24 PM, ActionDan said:

I'll ask, I don't mind giving the HFMs a try, but I also won't say no to Attkd as they have been tested ,ore from what I can see. 

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i've got the 324mm 2 piece rotors on mine with intima pads from dosepipe. no issues with them soo far!

[No Crust Racing]

  On 18/11/2021 at 3:15 AM, DaymoR32 said:

i've got the 324mm 2 piece rotors on mine with intima pads from dosepipe. no issues with them soo far!

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Nice, He was suggesting RS front and maybe SR or Type D rears, so I will likely end up with that sort of setup. 

What rear rotors do you use? 

[DaymoR32]

i've got SR's on the front, but mines a street car.

stock rear rotors and unsure of pads, may go for larger rears when they need changing

[No Crust Racing]

Ahh righto, cheers

[No Crust Racing]

Had been putting off the caliper welding as it made me a bit nervous, just thought stuff it last night and had a crack but didn't really prep enough so the bead came out a bit high/cold. 

Been told to pre-heat this time and go higher on the amps. The back side I had started to tidy up to see how it looked, looked surprisingly decent to me, but I'm super amateur. No cracks in it this morning and it didn't come off when I hit it with a hammer (as I've seen them do on YT when they are too cold) but being a caliper bracker I will get myself a dremel type thing and grind the weld out and have another go with more heat in the gun and some pre-heating of the materials then post heating to reduce stresses. 

When done my plan is to drop them in the ultrasonic for a clean up then a lick of paint. 

All learning =\

 

[No Crust Racing]

Spoke to a mate of mine who gave me some pointers, ground back, smoother out and went again.

Tested belting it with a hammer after grinding the weld down initially and it stayed put so atleast there was some penetration there previously.

Much happier this time, should clean up and paint up nicely.

 

[Ben C34]

Looks good. How did you align It?

[No Crust Racing]

Earlier pic shows a bracket that comes with the kit. You bolt it on, tack then go from there.

[No Crust Racing]

Oh I didn't post it. 

 

Here

 

 

[No Crust Racing]

Made mistake of talking to Piggaz, then planets aligned and this came up cheap so it's on its way to the builder and we'll work out the rest when the engine gets back. 

 

Builder is very happy lol 

 

Anyone want a new VE oil pump or Aeroflow sump???

 

 

[robbo_rb180]

Definitely no longer a budget build. Good idea to just go straight to dry sump

[No Crust Racing]

I asked Prank to change the title lol 

And before anyone says anything, this is actually nothing to do with Piggaz, I have been talking to my builder about this for ages but sitting on the fence, I just happened to be chatting to him when this pan came up cheap but it makes me feel good to blame my poor financial choices on somebody else  
 

Edited November 26, 2021 by ActionDan