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S13 Sprint/Time Attack Style Build


No Crust Racing

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On 7/28/2022 at 5:14 PM, robbo_rb180 said:

thats the worst part waiting on parts.
Guessing something pretty decent too

Lol no not at all, I'm only excited because they're new and can finally have wheels and calipers on as my old 17s dont clear the calipers.

 

Still a budget bitch with budget wheels.

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On 7/28/2022 at 5:20 PM, robbo_rb180 said:

what brakes? 
From a quick mock up I am able to get my evo brembo setup (evo 10 rotor) under my 17x9 +22 Te37

350z brembos on 2 piece HFM rotors. 

 

Did not clear old banger Volk Emu shit offset 17x8s up front. No surprise there.

 

I sold the 17x9s as they were 4 stud.

Edited by ActionDan
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Juicy updates time. 

Invested in a brass wire grinder disc and got to work stripping the paint off the LCAs then put the hoist to good use and rattle canned them satin black. In traditional fashion, I rushed/went a bit hard in some spots so there will be no close ups of the runs OK 😅

20220731_130718.thumb.jpg.6fcc6480712503958a5c6d9adb9c3693.jpg20220731_135519.thumb.jpg.30ab250ff560d2131ab741cb185941e2.jpg20220731_145041.thumb.jpg.6e6c3f72d60745a6579ccc92a49dacfb.jpg

Hunted around to find some new boots for the ball joint as 1 had split, the metal ring they come with is just a smidge big so it unseats when the ball joint moves full sweep, the old ones did this too. What have others done in this situation? The lip on the ball joint itself is not fantastic so I was thinking some fine gauge wire/safety wire to wrap/twist? I've also included a pic of the original boot. 

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Also, My wheels are arriving in the office today, but I'm working from home with a sick child sad reacts all all round. 

I've also got a drill bit coming to do the front hubs so I can fit rotors and calipers properly. 

Oh and here's another head pic update, Dale said he just had to tidy up above and below where the divider meets the roof/floor. 

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Edited by ActionDan
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Check the fitment on this rice boi ❤️ 

Could have gotten away with +20 in the rear for sure but wanted square rims and needed +0 for that epic front coilover clearance - the +20s i tested barely had 2-3mm and +10 would only work with mild camber. 

We'll see if we get away with those 50mm flares or wider guards - I have tubs for the front also. 

Oh and my LCAs went in perfect and have *perfect* clearance for tools on the swaybar/castor nuts. 

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This update only on SAU because forums are the best for build threads so there will always be some extra info/details etc here. 

Bit of fiddling last night, wheels on up front, car movable again and back on hoist trying to work out if I actually need these tubs or not, having a hard time figuring it out (tubs are a lot of work and requires removal/change of lots of stuff in the bay too). 

Dale reckons I need at least 75mm of travel so I can try and work back off that, a full lock to lock saw minor contact front and rear on the plastic guard liner/quarter panel/body kit but otherwise nothing major. That was all static though, not under compression. 

I got them as I was told I would def need them for these size tyres so maybe I am underestimating how hard the car will lean on slicks. 

Also, ordered gktech castor arm braces and the bar to make my own nismo power brace thing to help resist chassis movement. I am planning on having the cage come through the firewall to the shock towers also. 

I'm waiting on ATP to come back to me as I assume I just have to put pressure on the tub and tack it in to place, but that profile looks very different! Added pic of his completed tubs for context. 




 

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Edited by ActionDan
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It's very straightforward to check. Just take the springs off each corner, put the shocks/struts back in.  On the hoist, put the rear on a jack and move it through the full range up and down, just needs a mm or 2 for tyre deflection. At the front same deal except turn from lock to lock at say 5 points in the travel as well (top bottom middle and the in betweens).

With the GTR, the first place it hit was on the front bar at mid travel with wheels turned, because the caster pulls the wheel forward towards the bar compared to factory. Obviously you've dealt with the inner shoulder on control arm already, the other place is full lock, full compression hitting the inner guards

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