Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

On 8/13/2020 at 3:51 PM, Unzipped Composites said:

I've seen 700rwhp through the stock lines with no signs of being out of flow.

If you put a pressure sensor on the rail it is interesting. Higher than desired base pressure that then drops back to where you want it then potentially drops off is the usual result

 

 

You may be able to set 3 bar with engine offf, but when running and pulling vacuum you differential fuel pressure is higher. Not the biggest deal but not great, and makes tuning for big injectors more of a pain.

  • Like 2
7 hours ago, BakemonoRicer said:

If you use a stock fuel system in this I will be so disappointed, basically getting the fuel to the engine for constant HP is critical

In 3rd gear I’ve chopped both an Audi RS5 and C63 AMG, I’m talking several car lengths 

you need a fuel system for track work!!!! Put a flex sensor in it then you can run pump and E85!!! But getting a surge tank right is a black art I have all the secrets to get it right 

 

It'll just get what's needed. 

 

No point building a 1000hp fuel system for an engine that will never get there.

Surge tank isn't rocket science either at this power. 

Sounds like I might need to budget for lines, I'm not keen on big base pressures. 

 

 

No engine updates bu the daily got some new tech because Toyota have the most dated interiors ever. Went baller by spending $30 extra to buy a front camera too. 

I'm not even sure the space shuttle has a front AND rear cam?!

 

20200816_152321.jpg

20200816_152509.jpg

20200816_152522.jpg

20200815_141742.jpg

  • Like 1
On 8/16/2020 at 5:28 PM, ActionDan said:

It'll just get what's needed. 

 

No point building a 1000hp fuel system for an engine that will never get there.

Surge tank isn't rocket science either at this power. 

Sounds like I might need to budget for lines, I'm not keen on big base pressures. 

 

 

Eagerly awaiting future post complaining about fuel surge lol 

Another option is to PWM your fuel pump in your surge tank and only fully drive them at 100% DC when you're on boost.

This would reduce the issue of having an undersized return line from your FPR back to tank.

I still think using both your stock lines as a return and running a new 8AN line from your surge to your fuel filter -> rail will solve the inherit issues and also be somewhat cost effective enough.

Another way is to run the FPR at the rear and use both the OEM return and feed as a twin feed to the front only. One small downside to this is your FPR "might" react a touch slower than what your manifold pressure is. If this lag translates to you actually noticing is anyone's guess.

I don't even have an aftermarket FPR currently lol plenty of work to do on fuel system when the time comes, it's an area I really know SFA about.

Current setup is a 2L surge with a 460lph Walbro and a 255lph lift pump in the tank with some braided lines here and there. 

 

  • 3 months later...

Life been busy, engine builder been busy. 

Head work nearing completion. 

Basic shed nearing completion - maybe today they said, I opted out of being involved after the slab and ditched the original builder who was painful as f**k

Still have water, power and elec, slab clean-up and seal, get hoist etc before I can look at moving my stuff in and doing any real work, will be slow going as it's gonna be too hot for that shit in summer. 
 

127033817_190964672645186_8658271013705540230_n.jpg

127217028_680540959269147_6524447770148758623_n.jpg

127281995_420835959088047_6023498355157719150_n.jpg

127458105_986330081854639_8952582370074525194_n.jpg

  • Like 2
3 hours ago, robbo_rb180 said:

Any more pics of the head work? I've started porting mine but won't going as far as yours has been done

Not really, he only gives me so much as there's some special sauce in the work he reckons. Dunno if it's relevant to your head or did you go P12 as well? 

  • Like 1

no fancy ve head just the standard redtop still. Its hard to find info on what works with these heads so just cleaning up little and blending parts. I am aiming to make reliable 250kw (270kw on scramble) as don't want to do gearbox conversion.

2 hours ago, robbo_rb180 said:

no fancy ve head just the standard redtop still. Its hard to find info on what works with these heads so just cleaning up little and blending parts. I am aiming to make reliable 250kw (270kw on scramble) as don't want to do gearbox conversion.

For that power, what you're doing well be perfect I reckon.

  • Like 1
31 minutes ago, ActionDan said:

For that power, what you're doing well be perfect I reckon.

We'll see going to get into the standard exhaust manifold after I finish this off.

Have you picked a hoist yet for the shed? I've just ordered a HAPP70 will make working on cars so much better

Funny you mention HAPP, I was looking at HAPP40 or 60 I think it was, something like that.

1900-2000mm lift, clear floor, maybe 300mm extensions if Prado cannot be lifted above my head and still clear the safety (I think it will as Prado is under 1600 cabin height with racks at a guesstimate).

 

 

 

 

I went solar vents on mine, lots of hot days with no wind. Still too damn hot to work too hard today (shame I have to turn the car around after Bathurst yesterday to the rally next weekend...)

Wind is no issue where I am up on the hill, but from personal experience in my last place, the heat rising tends to make them turn a bit anyway which helps and having multiple 300mm holes in the roof allows the air to escape. 

Last shed had a monument coloured roof with thermal break and whirly and it was fine for temps that I'd want to be working anyway. This one has thicker thermal break and a green roof and is higher so hoping it's a little better.

I have contemplated putting an evaporative cooler on this one, but whether it would help or just make it humid AF I dunno. After moving to refrigerative ducted in the house, I'd never go back lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bump on this to not make another post, had a ‘head drain’ leak on me and have the engine out as we speak. Planning on just putting a new freeze plug back in , plug the tapped holes and just be done with that headache.    Now I still want to relieve pressure to allow oil to pass down the blocks returns easier. I’ve seen catch cans with multiple vents help folks with this issue on this forum.  I’m wanting to make my own. I have some pictures here of my setup if anyone can help how I should plumb and design the catch can I would deeply appreciate it !   rb25 Oil upgrades: 1.0mm restrictor n1 pump/billet gears extended crank collar  extended sump with trap doors/w welded fitting    
    • The Frenchy's kit is the way to go forward. A modern compressor that weighs about 1/2 as much, is at least twice as efficient, and will do a good job on R134a. And of course the kit has everything else you need to connect it up and have it work properly.
    • Hey all , I am in the process of having the AC system in my r32 GTST converted from r12 to r134a and I’m being told my compressor has gone bad and I will need a new one. I was wondering if anybody has any suggestions for what is the best route to go aside from dropping $1500 on a new oem one? I did see that Frenchy’s performance garage offers a kit to mount a Toyota compressor, has anybody actually used this kit on their car? Or is there anywhere I could purchase just a clutch? Any help is appreciated.
    • Well, your RB20 ECU loom won't have wires for the boost solenoid, that boost sensor, and possibly one or two other things. There could be differences in seemingly random things like the charcoal canister purge solenoid, because the 25DET has to handle boost in the vacuum system and the 20DE does not. I don't know - I haven't looked. It is very likely that all the most important things are same-same, being the main sensors like AFM, CAS, etc, and the injectors and ignition. Not that you'll need the AFM for the Haltech anyway. I would suggest that you would seriously want to sit down with the pinouts for both ECUs and just go through them and highlight green what is the same, orange what is different/missing, and make a plan from there. It's not going to be difficult. It will either be the same or need to be fixed.
    • yeaaa that's why I haven't done any wiring to the stock ecu harness because I have the haltech, but then that leads me to the other question of "is the pnp harness really plug and play?" or would I have to still switch some pins/wires over because the pnp is for the rb25det neo harness, and not for the rb20de neo harness. was really hoping to find something to spoon feed me since so many people have done rb20neo + t conversions, but man this is rough.
×
×
  • Create New...