Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

11 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Not long to skids video, I like.

Miles away, for real. 

4 minutes ago, robbo_rb180 said:

hows the hunt for a chassis going? seen a few half finished s chassis come up lately.

@Dose Pipe Sutututu when will you be heading to mexico?

Have been half looking but the price of rollers is retarded, especially anything caged/tubed etc (Silvia's that is). 

86s seem to present slightly better value and I think we can agree the chassis itself is better, but nothing decently priced has come up and as I'm in no rush I've just kept browsing. 

When talking to Dale, he was saying that given I would want to be modifying the cage in my car anyway, if I extend it to the front and rear towers I will pick up most of the chassis rigidity improvements of a newer chassis anyway. 

How do you make the call in the end? I really have struggled to just make a call on which direction I "want" to go. I want to go fast, I want to have fun. I want to avoid heaps of work, headache etc. Would I be sad if I sold this car? I've had it for over 10yrs and put a lot of hours in to it. I didn't lose any sleep over the GT-R and it had lots of time and money in it as well. 

Financially/effort wise it "seems" like it's better to buy a caged S-Chassis roller that already has 5 stud, better brakes, widebody/tubbed, fuel system, better diff, already painted, maybe ECU etc if you can find one for not stupid money (I say all those things as they are what I want/need) but there's the risk of buying someone's shit, needing to do seat mounts to fit me, maybe do/redo my gauges, aero setup, swap over subframe maybe, fix whatever is broken on it etc. I then end up with a complete car to use what I want from then sell as a runner. 

Or stick with what you have, pull it down and get busy on doing all that work, which is time and money but you know the history, keep the car you've had for ages etc. 

As good as the 86 chassis is, logically an S-chassis, mine or otherwise, is probably the smarter choice. 


 

  • Like 2
16 minutes ago, ActionDan said:

already has 5 stud

well I heard you need to replace your front wheel bearings, so might as well get these:

https://www.efisolutions.com.au/wheel-bearing-hub-front-s14-s15

Heard you get good prices from that site too 😂

6 minutes ago, ActionDan said:

What made you decide to keep your car? You didn't even list it for sale? 

Wife, told me to respray it and keep it.

She said "as soon as you sell it, you'll end up buying another shitbox to throw countless money at". Can't say she's wrong about that lol.

1 minute ago, admS15 said:

My 2c. I vote on keeping the s13. As you said, you know the history etc. and the s13 is also the lightest s chassis which helps with going fast.

 

Cheers, my issue is putting a "price" on what history is worth so I can put that in a spread sheet and see what the best financial choice is because I have no clear "want" in either direction. 

I do admit sometimes I think it would be a little weird to sell it, but I can't tell you why I think that. Probs just because I've had it so long. 

I rang a guy about an s15 IPRA car last week but was sold and was priced well and have been tagged by mates in a few but have not found anything that ticks most of the boxes. 

This is a big one for me

30 minutes ago, ActionDan said:

risk of buying someone's shit


Will probably just fix the current race car as I know whats wrong and what needs to be done to improve it. 

3 minutes ago, robbo_rb180 said:

I rang a guy about an s15 IPRA car last week but was sold and was priced well and have been tagged by mates in a few but have not found anything that ticks most of the boxes. 

This is a big one for me


Will probably just fix the current race car as I know whats wrong and what needs to be done to improve it. 

QLD seems to have a lot more on offer, is motorsport dead in Vic or what? 

Well your front hubs are sorted, now to find you some rear ones.. I think R33 GTS-t stuff sounds good, so if I come across anything I'll tell you.

DBA stuff, I heard you know some dickhead that gets stuff pretty cheap too - so you're sorted there as well LOL.

Road Reg'd with full interior, I stupidly gave my black interior away years ago because I couldn't sell it and it was taking up space. 

Plus car is stripped out, sound deadening removed etc. 

 

1 hour ago, ActionDan said:

sound deadening removed

can always put back in and use the premium stuff like Dynamat and sell it to someone saying you wanted to install premium sound deadening, better than the OEM stuff.

:D

  • Haha 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This is the clearest explanation out of those: Page 77: Turn the crankshaft clockwise two full rotations with the tensioner pulley installation bolt in a loose condition. Insert a wrench into the tensioner pulley hexagonal hole to fix the tensioner pulley in place, then tighten the installation bolts. Tightening torque: 43–58 N·m (4.4–5.9 kg·m). The timing belt tension should be at the correct tension. Basically you turn the engine with the tensioner bolt loose, then use the allen key to hold it while you torque it up. And yes after that a good guide is being able to twist it 90o in one of the long free lengths of the belt
    • good choice....I have a set of those and use them all the time including on this job. Plus, no-one wants a damaged nipple
    • Thanks all, went with nismo strengthened belt and all genuine nissan idler and tensioner Question on RB25DET Neo Timing Tensioner: I have a question about the RB25DET Neo timing tensioner. In one of the videos (minute 20 of https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=17y37BB9xnA and minute 27 of https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pb99s2E9xUg), the process suggests tightening the tensioner pulley installation bolt to the specified torque initially, and then loosening it slightly to allow the spring to set the correct tension. Is this the correct approach? The R33 workshop manual on page 74 states: Loosen the tension pulley installation nuts. Insert the wrench into the tensioner pulley hexagonal hole and turn it clockwise to tighten the installation nut temporarily. The way this is written is confusing. Does this mean: Undo the nut, then reduce the tension by turning clockwise? Snug the nut so it stays in position without applying tension to the belt while removing the timing belt? The manual wording makes it sound like the nut will tighten automatically when you turn the tensioner clockwise , which is unclear to me.   Timing Belt Tension Adjustment Process: After loosening the tensioner nut, you turn the engine two full rotations by hand, which should set the correct tension. Once the tension is set, you tighten the bolt to 43 N·m (4.4 kg·m). Before tightening, you need to insert the Allen key into the hexagonal hole to hold the pulley in place while tightening the bolt. In one of the videos, it’s mentioned that you should twist the belt side to side, or turn it slightly to check if the tension is correct. The belt should turn halfway, indicating the right tension. However, I know that twisting or turning the belt is not a good idea. What are your thoughts on this? Finally, how can I ensure the belt isn’t overtightened? I’ve seen many cases where people have overtightened the timing belt.   Manual Excerpts: Page 74: Loosen the tension pulley installation nuts. Insert the wrench into the tensioner pulley hexagonal hole and turn it clockwise to tighten the installation nut temporarily. Remove the timing belt from each pulley. Page 77: Turn the crankshaft clockwise two full rotations with the tensioner pulley installation bolt in a loose condition. Insert a wrench into the tensioner pulley hexagonal hole to fix the tensioner pulley in place, then tighten the installation bolts. Tightening torque: 43–58 N·m (4.4–5.9 kg·m). The timing belt tension should be at the correct tension.
    • Takes a few minutes to malke one. Wood, or steel, or a wrap strap with some strategically placed solids to provide teh drive onto the ribs.
    • I would strongly suggest using the correct tool. They are not expensive and make the job much easier and don't damage the lock ring. Google "fuel tank lock ring removal tool" to see what I'm talking about. 
×
×
  • Create New...