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I don't know about S chassis with strut fronts, but on r chassis longer LCAs is the best way to increase camber since it doesn't decrease track and put more pressure on the upper arm.  A miss is as good as a mile to the shock, as long as you have the tyre size you are looking for.

I'd just put flares on the front if you can. You need to make sure you have lock to lock clearance at full compression in the front 

I use r33 front lca's (+10mm) and they will give heaps of camber and clearance. 
Did you go kelway tubs? Look at the Instagram stuff he posted of install.
Once you tub it you lose a lot of space, I'll post some detailed pics of my engine bay and its tight as didn't want to drill or cut tubs up.
What do your class rules allow for widebody? can you do full overs or just a flare? 

 

On 2/2/2022 at 4:16 PM, bcozican said:

you'll need more than 3.5 deg for sure - extend the LCAs by boxing them out 20mm or I think S14 or R33 are 10 - 15mm longer standard - or both

Wont effect clearance as its pulling it from the bottom - unless you extend the LCA so much you can pull the camber across also causing some clearance but I dont think you'll get that much outta it even at max

 

 

Extended LCAs seem like the go then. 

Seems it's a toss up between DIY kit like I posted and doing 25mm on the current arms and not having to remove/refit ball joints or buying 10mm longer R33 and swapping in the ball joints.

I lean towards the mod path because then I get 25mm extension and it's plated in for strength. 

On 2/2/2022 at 6:10 PM, Duncan said:

I don't know about S chassis with strut fronts, but on r chassis longer LCAs is the best way to increase camber since it doesn't decrease track and put more pressure on the upper arm.  A miss is as good as a mile to the shock, as long as you have the tyre size you are looking for.

I'd just put flares on the front if you can. You need to make sure you have lock to lock clearance at full compression in the front 

Flares on front only would look silly, were you drinking when you posted this Duncan?!

I certainly don't have lock to lock at the moment with the guard plastics there, tubs will help that as will my slightly smaller slicks but I should probs work off this size so I can run 295 semi's later as required. 

On 2/3/2022 at 12:58 AM, robbo_rb180 said:

I use r33 front lca's (+10mm) and they will give heaps of camber and clearance. 
Did you go kelway tubs? Look at the Instagram stuff he posted of install.
Once you tub it you lose a lot of space, I'll post some detailed pics of my engine bay and its tight as didn't want to drill or cut tubs up.
What do your class rules allow for widebody? can you do full overs or just a flare? 

 

ATP tubs, I don't mind cutting them up for cooler pipes etc if needed. 

I have no class, the car is just being built "because". I would love to run clubsprint at WTAC but after talking some to some guys who did it, it seems like a 10-20k weekend, just to be there (I think one of them managed a 3rd but times have improved since then). 

So that leaves my local club categories where my car ends up in with all the race cars so basically anything goes. Or the sprint series at Winton where I'd likely be in C2 class but I dunno the specifics of the rules there.

Winton Motor Raceway | The Nation's Action Track! | Winton BAC Sprint Series (wintonraceway.com.au)

OR if I wanted to smash the car up I could go racing with the lunatics in Thunder Sports where pretty much anything goes mod wise I think, deepest pockets or lots of talent for the win, of which I have neither lol 

I'll have a suss and see what's the best choice (guards or flares) and have a look at some flared S13. When John posted his earlier I was not a fan =\

On 03/02/2022 at 7:58 AM, ActionDan said:

....Flares on front only would look silly, were you drinking when you posted this Duncan?!...

Yes, but that's not the point :) Although, as I guess Neil would say, "If you can't go fast, look good"

I think you will have trouble when you have enough caster with the wheel hitting the front bumper at full compression as you turn lock to lock. Flares can cover up whatever butchery is required to clear that

  • Haha 1
On 2/3/2022 at 9:55 AM, Duncan said:

Yes, but that's not the point :) Although, as I guess Neil would say, "If you can't go fast, look good"

I think you will have trouble when you have enough caster with the wheel hitting the front bumper at full compression as you turn lock to lock. Flares can cover up whatever butchery is required to clear that

Already have tubs on the way (was meant to be my xmas present from the missus lol) If we need to cut the guard back up underneath these or bigger flares then so be it, this car is not being preserved as a mint condition barn find to sell later, it was bought to be used. 

Think it has about 8.5deg caster currently and I can't see me wanting/needing more but I am yet to drive it on slicks so who knows. 
 

  • Like 1

Have a look at Kmak Aero https://www.kmakaero.com.au/shop-kmak-aero-products/s13-silvia-aero/
I run their stuff and its good fitment and pricing, made to order on the Gold Coast. My mate with all origin gear was not happy with his expensive Japanese stuff made in Malaysia.

WTAC is silly expensive rather do club level stuff too, Thundersports/sports sedan would be fun but LS seems to be needed to be competitive. 
I'm building that gets to get experience in the door to door stuff as want that experience. Are there many hill climbs in Victoria as they generally have no restriction and MA stuff is engine capacity based.

Be interested to see how the it goes on the slicks and whats needed to make them work.

On 2/3/2022 at 9:28 PM, robbo_rb180 said:

Have a look at Kmak Aero https://www.kmakaero.com.au/shop-kmak-aero-products/s13-silvia-aero/
I run their stuff and its good fitment and pricing, made to order on the Gold Coast. My mate with all origin gear was not happy with his expensive Japanese stuff made in Malaysia.

WTAC is silly expensive rather do club level stuff too, Thundersports/sports sedan would be fun but LS seems to be needed to be competitive. 
I'm building that gets to get experience in the door to door stuff as want that experience. Are there many hill climbs in Victoria as they generally have no restriction and MA stuff is engine capacity based.

Be interested to see how the it goes on the slicks and whats needed to make them work.

They have some options there for sure, cheers. 

My mate, Joog Air Racing, loves TS and does run an LS, but it's mid 300rwkw, and he's had wins etc. I will have more power on hand on high boost, but whether it can do it for 10 laps is another thing, which will be why people cap the power at mid 300s I guess. Plus he has much bigger brakes and has needed to go a bit more expensive on wheel bearings as slicks do strain them more. Suspension wise the care isn't wild, few extended and reinforced bits, gktech stuff etc, but he does have grip knuckles (which is more about getting bmp steer and roll centre correction, but I already have those on the arm/ball joint themselves) and is now going some hot spec knuckle/arm setup from canada for a few k. 

What is "MA" stuff sorry? 

On 2/4/2022 at 6:10 AM, ActionDan said:

What is "MA" stuff sorry? 

I remember Jooga from when I was down there and he was drifting. Yeah keeping power conservative will be key to longevity. 

MA = Motorsport Australia (previously CAMS)

Max plates and a little extra from bolts was -3.5 and I ran like 3 or so I think. 

Jooga said he runs -3.5 to 4 though on slicks also. 

I had to stand the knuckle up to get wheel clearance so will have lost .5-1 deg from that, so I guess 25mm should give me that back easily enough? 

Wasnt planning on doing the rear, still have heaps of adjustment on the arms and rims/tyres seem to clear other things OK once the guard is further modified. 

 

Edited by ActionDan
On 2/8/2022 at 11:06 AM, ActionDan said:

ok ordered the 25mm, now we wait.... and wait....

Tubs here soon hopefully then I can play with those. 

Probs should stop avoiding looking at Dash too. 

Make a list and start chipping away at it. Dash should be pretty easy compared to the rest. 

It's really just a test fit as I can't commit to anything until the cage is in then I will work around that. 

Make a list? I'm not ready to be that confronted... 

Block is currently at machine shop getting ultrasonic tested before it's bored and ready to accept the parts catalogue. 

 

 

Put it into Google Keep as a checklist OR go full agile and put it into a kanban in Trello or similar.

Nek minnit, Dan: WTT M2 for S13 track build & parts catalogue

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