S13 Sprint/Time Attack Style Build

[Duncan]

Sorry, I should add, your alignment should be reasonably correct before you test it because it can make e big difference to the geometry. Camber can tuck the wheel inside the guard at full compression, caster can cause clearance issues to the front bar, correct individual and total toe can affect wheel location at full lock etc etc

[No Crust Racing]

On 8/5/2022 at 9:12 AM, Duncan said:

Sorry, I should add, your alignment should be reasonably correct before you test it because it can make e big difference to the geometry. Camber can tuck the wheel inside the guard at full compression, caster can cause clearance issues to the front bar, correct individual and total toe can affect wheel location at full lock etc etc

Well bloody hell that all sounds like a lot of work. 

I know it "had" about 8deg of castor in it and it "Had" -3.5 camber but the camber especially will be out now with extended LCAs (I left the lock stops off also...)

What did you mean by "Obviously you've dealt with the inner shoulder on control arm already"

 

[robbo_rb180]

I found it hard with the tubs to fit everything where it was accessible and took a lot of time to fit things for ease of maintenance. My priority was keeping as many things between the chassis rails & behind the rad support for that off chance of contact with objects.

Realistically when is the car going to be at full lock? you won't be running guard liners and trimming bottom of skid skirt and front bar to fit is normal. 
Have a look at Sams s13

https://www.facebook.com/SamCollinsMotorsport/photos

I went with kelway tubs as heaps easier to fit than the other kits.

[No Crust Racing]

No tubs there. 

You got some easily accessible pics of your bay? 

[robbo_rb180]

On 8/5/2022 at 9:26 AM, ActionDan said:

Well bloody hell that all sounds like a lot of work. 

Welcome to building/working on proper race cars 😂
Wait til you need help running it, need some good mates that like to be at the track to help......

[No Crust Racing]

NM, found them on your FB. 

Doesn't show me where you put everything though. 

 

[robbo_rb180]

Best can do at the moment, can get some pics next weekend once engine is back in

[robbo_rb180]

I was being precious too about drilling & cutting into the tubs. Powersteer res is behind PAS headlight and both relay/fuse boxes are mounted on rad support, overflow mounted off strut tower in front of BMC.

only thing not in there is the oil filter which is remote mounted to chassis rail clear of the front right wheel

Edited August 4, 2022 by robbo_rb180

[bcozican]

On 05/08/2022 at 7:31 AM, robbo_rb180 said:

Welcome to building/working on proper race cars 😂
Wait til you need help running it, need some good mates that like to be at the track to help......

this ...

best and worst bit of pushing your car further and further !

 

this wasmine a long while ago now + oil remote has always been on drivers side outside the engine bay

[No Crust Racing]

On 8/5/2022 at 9:37 AM, robbo_rb180 said:

I was being precious too about drilling & cutting into the tubs. Powersteer res is behind PAS headlight and both relay/fuse boxes are mounted on rad support, overflow mounted off strut tower in front of BMC.

only thing not in there is the oil filter which is remote mounted to chassis rail clear of the front right wheel

Yeah I have no issues with that side of it, it's more about do I need it/will it be a benefit as it's a fair body of work. 

On 8/5/2022 at 9:51 AM, bcozican said:

this ...

best and worst bit of pushing your car further and further !

 

this wasmine a long while ago now + oil remote has always been on drivers side outside the engine bay

How big are your wheels? Did you "need" tubs or did you just get them like I did because you thought you would lol 
 

[bcozican]

I actually bought this shell off a mate who was building this as a drift car thats why they where their in the first place

Now im glad they are there because im at 18 x 10.5 - zero with 295/35/18 tyres

I think the tubs actually only need to be half tubs / cut diagonal from strut - as regardless of how big wheel is it wont hit where it goes to at the front of the tub and also it would provide more room in the bay

[No Crust Racing]

On 8/5/2022 at 10:09 AM, bcozican said:

I actually bought this shell off a mate who was building this as a drift car thats why they where their in the first place

Now im glad they are there because im at 18 x 10.5 - zero with 295/35/18 tyres

I think the tubs actually only need to be half tubs / cut diagonal from strut - as regardless of how big wheel is it wont hit where it goes to at the front of the tub and also it would provide more room in the bay

I agree, but cutting through an angle would be very fiddly and probs require more material than I have here to work with. 

The Kelway ones kinda take this into account a little. 

The slicks are only 270s but I can run p to a 295 for WTAC based on weight, but that might be pushing it on a 10"

Your guards would be bigger than mine too, so maybe I do need ot just bite the bullet and slam'em in. 

 

[bcozican]

# carbon 😆

but yes always a compromise

Other might have a diff opinion but Ive tried a 295/30 on a 10" was squishy, rolling mess through cornering didnt like

[No Crust Racing]

On 8/5/2022 at 10:16 AM, bcozican said:

# carbon 😆

but yes always a compromise

Other might have a diff opinion but Ive tried a 295/30 on a 10" was squishy, rolling mess through cornering didnt like

I think 10" is the minimum so I'm not surprised. 

[robbo_rb180]

On 8/5/2022 at 9:51 AM, bcozican said:

this ...

best and worst bit of pushing your car further and further !

 

this wasmine a long while ago now + oil remote has always been on drivers side outside the engine bay

Yeah a mate has found that out wit his r35, needs 2 people to just to run it for a basic test day.

Bite the bullet get wider guards, Kmak aero is a lot better quality than the "jap" stuff thats made overseas.
If goal is to run a 295 eventually tub it. Do it once and be ready for future, engine is still a while off..

Surprised you haven't just snapped this up
https://www.facebook.com/groups/1597445057169847/permalink/3134510930129911/?sale_post_id=3134510930129911

[No Crust Racing]

On 8/5/2022 at 10:47 AM, robbo_rb180 said:

Yeah a mate has found that out wit his r35, needs 2 people to just to run it for a basic test day.

Bite the bullet get wider guards, Kmak aero is a lot better quality than the "jap" stuff thats made overseas.
If goal is to run a 295 eventually tub it. Do it once and be ready for future, engine is still a while off..

Surprised you haven't just snapped this up
https://www.facebook.com/groups/1597445057169847/permalink/3134510930129911/?sale_post_id=3134510930129911

We've already discussed this "as a team" as NCR is 3 of us, my build is just most active at the moment but there's an RB30 R33 @BrendanR33 and a Weekend warrior 370z guy. 

the 295 comment is really about having to run semis for WTAC or any other event that requires it. 

I didn't think I "needed" wider guards up front, but the rear is looking very likely thought I could get away with those 50mm flares that I said I hated the look of lol

 

[No Crust Racing]

It can work when painted I think. 

I need a new body kit anyway, but I would ultimately like to keep the factory metal guards for some dumb reason?  

 

[Duncan]

On 05/08/2022 at 9:26 AM, ActionDan said:

What did you mean by "Obviously you've dealt with the inner shoulder on control arm already"

 

lol looks like wrong thread, I've got a short attention span.

you should be able to tell as soon as you bolt the wheel with tyre on if you are going to hit the strut

[robbo_rb180]

yeah that looks pretty good, current kit is complete so just run with it.

Its hard buying/sharing a car with people, I was almost going to get in on a production car but wasn't really going to work out when came time to sell my share.
And then theres the issue if someone bins it......

[No Crust Racing]

Already know they clear by miles, see earlier pic. 

At +10 they had maybe 2-3mm clearance which is why I went +0 for margin/more camber (at knuckle) if needed etc.