S13 Sprint/Time Attack Style Build

[admS15]

No, have it sitting between tip of drill bit and hole to be enlarged. Just helps the bit cut smoother without grabbing onto the metal and jerking your wrists. Rough side down.

[No Crust Racing]

Well I didn't have emry paper so I just did a Duncan and sent it... slowly... with lots of cutting fluid.

One side is now done and it wasn't as bad as I was thinking and the caliper mounts up nicely, still have 1 side to do but was doing this in between coats of paint on the inside of the castor brackets. Left a nice lip for welding also which is the next step then the whole thing can be painted and reinstalled. 

Brakes look tiny now but there's excellent clearance around the caliper which can only be a good thing. 

Has any ever tried those ebay high temp caliper vinyls? I was thinking of getting some basic white outline NCR logos for the calipers to give them some flair. 

Also got some new MTB flats, first time with "proper" shoes. A mate has some new gray laces which should tone them down as he;s keen on the blue ones lol. They sound like Basketball shoes on the floor boards lol they feel really tacky. 



 

Edited August 18, 2022 by ActionDan

[robbo_rb180]

I've used that vinyl on my car with no issues so far. Painted caliper with high temp paint, applied vinyl then sprayed with high temp clear. Over 18months not fading or discolouring.

Yeah those brakes will be big enough for the car, some quality pads, fluid and ducting should be able to run full session issues too. I think my evo setup may be overkill for me.

[No Crust Racing]

The Evo setup isn't too much bigger so I think you'll be OK. Did you go the 350mm rotor option? I can't remember. 

Did you hit up eBay or some special vinyl brake decals place? 

 

 

[robbo_rb180]

On 8/19/2022 at 11:12 AM, ActionDan said:

The Evo setup isn't too much bigger so I think you'll be OK. Did you go the 350mm rotor option? I can't remember. 

Did you hit up eBay or some special vinyl brake decals place? 

 

 

Kit came with the car, pretty sure 350mm. Want to fit them under my 17 inch te37's & gtr wheels, all my wheels are 17x9 in various offsets

What ever one came up on ebay as brembo brake vinyl high temp.

[No Crust Racing]

On 8/19/2022 at 12:24 PM, robbo_rb180 said:

Kit came with the car, pretty sure 350mm. Want to fit them under my 17 inch te37's & gtr wheels, all my wheels are 17x9 in various offsets

What ever one came up on ebay as brembo brake vinyl high temp.

17x9 might be pushing it or are you saying it already fits?  I thought the Evo caliper is larger overall also, It's considered the superior Brembo in this size I think. 

[robbo_rb180]

From my quick mock up off car they fit, caliper to wheel face is the issue most people have. I don't really want to go 18s as will have to buy a heap of new wheels probably go 18 x 9.5 to 10 to get 295 as have to be worth the upgrade and then the knock on effect is will need wide body guards. Trying to keep the car close to IPRA spec just incase I want to run in that. 
Really need my shed up and car here so I can test mount everything. Car is 40mins away and I CBF dragging parts out there, jacking car up outside and working on the ground. Hoist has ruined me 😂

Evo brembo uses a different pad that is bigger, cheaper and more compounds available.

[No Crust Racing]

All perfectly valid

[No Crust Racing]

Had a shed sesh with another NCR dude as he hobbled around on his healing broken leg helping here and there, had a few whiskeys as we went, good times. 

- Power brace fully complete, brackets welded in nicely I think, minimal clean up needed and quite happy with how this came out. I think these shit all over the Nismo option for strength.

Left them hanging to fully cure. Will go back in this week I'd say, hopefully it's all still square.... A mate suggested I should have used weld through primer on the section I tapped and left clear to minimise risk of rust which is great advice, should be OK on this car anyway given it'll see minimal water but still good advice. 

- Finished the M12-M14 job, no issues there. I was ultra conservative, steady pace, light/medium pressure and bulk cutting fluid with lots of breaks. The nicest I have ever been on a bit and it looks mint still, then my neighbour comes over (the one who runs the distillery) and tells me has 3 of these on hand I could have grabbed... lol 

I note the caliper runs pretty close to the disc on the outer side and I'm concerned the caliper has the wrong offset to the rotor, but I wont know fully until the pads go in, hopefully have those in the next week or 2 if what Intima says is accurate. Would you expect the caliper/rotor relationship to be dead set in the middle? I should have taken some pics.

- Test fitted rear brakes, the bolts I got are too long, but the washers are very thin. I have thicker washers on hand but may still need to nick a little off the end. On the side I tested the caliper "looked" pretty square to the rotor meaning the brackets I welded on should hopefully be good. 

- Finally remembered to remove the cut up dust shields fully. In retrospect, having a fully intact set could have been good for modifying to receive brake cooling ducts, what have others done here? I had them cable tied to the LCA's/Hub etc. 

- Started cleaning up the fab bench and worked out how I'm going to fit it in. 

[Duncan]

If the disc is not exactly in the middle of the caliper pistons when bolted in, the offset is wrong. But, if the caliper is too far outwards, you can shim it back to the correct position with washers between the caliper and hub, just get some large diameter ones for maximum contact area.

You can work around it if you need to, but it requires machining pads down to fit which is a pretty crap outcome...

I leave the shields on the disc as much as possible, so either bend back or remove only where clearance is required. Rocks stuck in the brakes are common for both track and rally and it makes a worrying noise until you work out what it was. The only ducting I have is the N1 standard deflectors on the caster rods

[No Crust Racing]

Could be wrong washers too as the bolts I have are from an R34 GTT I think, which came with factory washers. 

I'll get pads and see where I'm at. 

To be fair, I probs dont need any brake ducts for a sprint style car. 

[No Crust Racing]

Power Brace back in, not without it's minor issues though. Had to bust out the tap and die set and EVERY bolt and thread needed a clean/chase etc before they wanted to go back in nice. 

I spent a few minutes wiping some surfaces down, there's some epic oil/dirt combo caked on the cross member in particular. When it's rolling I will have to take it outside and pressure wash it all down properly. 

Brake ducts removed after our chat here and they were getting in the way, see how we go. 



Was reminded of an issue I had with swaybar bushes, not the 3m aluminium spacer I have in there. That was used as the bush does not close properly otherwise, I remember doing it in a pinch the night before an event and forgot about it but this seems a bit ghetto now. Bar is 25mm and is either stock or S14 as far as I remember, I do have a whiteline adjustable front sitting there also and an R32 GT-R rear, both of which were removed in favour of this smaller/softer option and stock rear as the car was way too stiff. Maybe on slicks it could work? 




Next thing to do is set up that fab bench so it's ready to use for the tubs project but this begs a few questions about the order of things. 

I need/want to replace the body kit/fit bigger flares, tub the front, paint the car (after the cage is done) so I'm just trying to wrap my head around which things first. 

Experience welcomed, but my thoughts were something like this. 

- Tub the front
- Get the wheels on and a ball park alignment to work out flares/guard cutting requirements then sort that. 
- Buy body kit, remove old one
- Send car to be caged before kit goes on (reduce risk of damage)
- Car back, fit bodykit
- Prep work then paint

Thoughts?

Also Dale tells me he's finishing the head today and tomorrow, fingers crossed. 

 

 

[No Crust Racing]

Started chipping away at the fab bench. 

- Cut/prepped supports for the bench surface (found there's slight bow so buying some big clamps to help straighten that today)
- Levelled it up better as it was rocking a tad. 
- Removed one cross brace so I can get stuff under it, will 45 deg cut the bar and reweld it into the corners
- A mate wire wheeled the surface of the bench for me on the weekend, but I think I'll go a bit further on that so it starts out nice, see how we go. 

Still need to cut/prep the backing piece and clean up the frame for a quick coat of paint to freshen it up. 

This should make fabbing the tubs a bit easier. 

 

[No Crust Racing]

Bonus head pics I just got, Dale said he's moving on to surface finishing now. 

 

[Duncan]

came here for pics of head. left disappointed

[No Crust Racing]

Been busy, managed to do some more fab bench, measured/prepped/welded in 1 of the bench supports, used clamps and the other support to compress the bench flat between the 2 sections of SHS and take the bow out of it before welding the support in, other side wont need that. 

 

[No Crust Racing]

Second support in, rear lip prepped, cut, attached. Can lift the bench off the ground from the lip with no noticeable flex so it seems strong enough to stop shit falling off the back. 

Next is some supports for the table to leg connection, clean up and a lick of paint on the frame. 

 

[No Crust Racing]

Forgot, Dale said porting is done.

Next step is machine for valve guides, cut seats (radial cut) then final mill and wash. 

Couple stock port pics for comparison. 

Dale said this about flow numbers.
 

"Chamber opening varied as casting shift had changes of 2-3cc between cylinders.

Approx 330 intake and 270 exhaust @ 28". Focus is on velocity rather than outright numbers. This is for 86.5 bore."

 

 

 

[No Crust Racing]

Fab on the fab bench is done, just as I emptied the bottle. 

Used the piece I cut out from the front to make some supports, used the piece I cut off the backing plate to do the same. 

Time for a wire wheel and some paint over the weekend hopefully, got more gas ready for tubs this morning.

This has been a good project for welding experience, I am happy with how some of them turned out, they're not all bangers but there's some good ones in there for sure. 
 

[No Crust Racing]

Voila! It's done, just gotta grab some basic feet for it to give me the 1-2mm needed to clear my tool cupboard so it can go under there also. Oh, and longer bolts for the vice. 



Dale also tells me he's ultrasonic bore testing my block today, see how we go - spare on hand if needed.

Edited September 6, 2022 by ActionDan