Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Cool

My Knock sensor count climbs in hot weather at low rpms and boost is reduced

but when its cool like today count is 0 and boost kicks like a mule and car breaks traction in 1st , 2nd & 3rd.

 

Interesting topic re: Map sensor. I'm running -9's (GT-SS), on a Vipec. My tuner (DVS Jez) also tuned 'around' the 3 Map sensor. I hit 24psi boost as well from 4-5000rpm before it backs down to 21psi up until 8K redline.

I don't think it's anything new to tune beyond sensors, on the dyno, but I can understand why it's less than ideal. 

It was a last minute decision while we were there, but I should have pulled my finger out and bought the proper sensor afterwards. 

14 minutes ago, djvoodoo said:

Interesting topic re: Map sensor. I'm running -9's (GT-SS), on a Vipec. My tuner (DVS Jez) also tuned 'around' the 3 Map sensor. I hit 24psi boost as well from 4-5000rpm before it backs down to 21psi up until 8K redline.

A 3 bar map sensor will read up to 29psi 

  • Like 1
12 minutes ago, r32-25t said:

A 3 bar map sensor will read up to 29psi 

Fair enough. Mabee i was told incorrect info. Someone mentioned to me that 3 bar absolute is not the actual same as total "boost". And just looking up my Vipec, it's 2.5 bar map sensor or 22ps "boost"i?

Could be completely wrong though.

2 hours ago, ActionDan said:

Wouldn't the wideband see it leaning out - and react accordingly?

 

 

 

 

but how would your wideband determine you've over boosting? or that you're running way to much timing?

And how would your wideband and or your map sensor determine you've over boosted and cut fuel/igniting to your motor?

Pointless having engine protection that's not protecting a basic thing like exceeding load, in this case boost. 

  • Like 2
10 hours ago, ActionDan said:

I got you, will put an order in tomorrrow.

Let us know how you get on.  While there is a good chance that it is to do with that, there is no guarantee BUT a MAP sensor that suits what you are doing is really a must have imho so not wasted money no matter what way you cut it.    Obviously it'll need remapping to get rid of the guess work on the 250kpa load range - good luck!

On 3/20/2017 at 6:55 PM, ActionDan said:

Any easy way to test them? Boost leak test doesn't help as any leakage stays in the intake so total pressure remains the same.
 

My BOV's are plumbed back. Leakage past the BOV just ends up back on the hot side of the motor. Total pressure remains the same and given the noises involved in pressuring the system, hard to hear if the BOV is unseating. 



 

Edited by ActionDan

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • They see me rollin' they hatin'....... Took me most of the day to make the necessary mods to the mounts to make them fit the car.  Fortunately I was able to just use the mounts that came with the rotisserie. The rear ones are really secure, the front I feel i might reinforce a bit more as it doesn't seem like enough attachment to the vehicle. I'm sure it's fine but better to be safe than (extremely...) sorry.  I drilled and tapped thread into additional M12 holes to each car mount where it attaches to the rotisserie as an extra fail-safe. Without them the side to side movement is just restricted by the allen head pinch bolts, nothing actually goes though the beam. Does now! I still need to adjust the rotisserie to get the car centred in terms of centre of gravity. If it's too high or too low relative to the rotational centre line of the car, it will be like a turtle and roll onto its back or as it currently sits, I dont think I'd be able to rotate it as it sits as it needs to lift the whole car up as it rotates. Ain't happening... I'm going to be nervous as hell the first time I go to spin it on its side...    
    • Oh yes done this when the window started flopping around.  Turns out the guides that run along the rail chanel had crumbed way. Took off the door card and pulled out the window mech, then the window, which you have to pull out through the top. As said unbolt the guide rail and don't spend 30 minutes getting frustrated trying to find a way to slide it out upwards cause that don't frigging work. Drop it down and out through the door hole. All I did to repair it was slice some 10mm clear plastic tube, vertically, then screw it to the guide rail both sides. This tubing rolls inward on both sides and leaves a gap wide enough to hold the window. To finish all I did was lube the plastic tube with olive oil and Bob's your uncle . . . well if he has the operation he can be your Aunt ! !  10 bucks in plastic tube and another 5 minute job done again . . . . YEH BULLSH#T ! My love for Skylines knows no bounds !
    • So was there a solution to this problem? I’m having this issue now. 
    • not expensive, just irreplaceable if you don't go sub 60 at wakie in that thing people will start talking
    • I haven't replaced that, but I have had the doors apart on the r32 a couple of times The door skin will be held on by a combination of clips and bolts, just take it slowly and make sure all the sneaky hidden bolts are out Once the skin is off you should be able to pop that piece off pretty easily, looks like there are only 2 bolts holding it on
×
×
  • Create New...