Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

11 hours ago, iruvyouskyrine said:

How much was the dynamat?

$210.00 off eBay, theres another brand where you get a little bit more for $20 dollars less, but i'll stick with the brand that's been around a while.

On 9/8/2017 at 6:36 AM, DaymoR32 said:

$210.00 off eBay, theres another brand where you get a little bit more for $20 dollars less, but i'll stick with the brand that's been around a while.

i always thought it was more expensive than that. Might be worth getting some for my daily. It has no sound deadening and shakes and rattle like nothing else!

i always thought it was more expensive than that. Might be worth getting some for my daily. It has no sound deadening and shakes and rattle like nothing else!


Yeah I thought it was super expensive too until I had a look on eBay.

Well I’ve got one sheet left of the 9 sheet pack and this is what I’ve got done so far, just got to put it on a few more fiddly places then the floor is done.

IMG_8806.jpg

IMG_8807.jpg

IMG_8808.jpg

Ordered an amp and speaker wire kit too, gonna tape all of it down to the floor prior to sticking the carpet and interior back in so it can all stay in place for future upgrades. Thinking about getting some 6.5” component speakers and a 10” sub and amp in the boot. Forgotten what music sounds like in this car with the original speakers having more holes than Swiss cheese!
10 hours ago, CRSKmD said:

Did you happen to weigh the stuff before putting it in? Have heard it has some heft but does a really good job for sound deadening. 

It said 8.9Kg's on the box, i'm sure i've read somewhere else that the original sound deadening weighs 13kg's. Don't really know what to believe though as i'm sure the original sound deadening doesn't cover anywhere near as much as what i have just put back in. Either way, i'd rather be able to hear and speak in the car than hear absolutely everything that's going on outside and deal with heaps of vibrations.

1 hour ago, vxsr33 said:

Nice progress so far.
I would also prefer the sound deadening, 8.9kg isnt much and i would assume the dynamat would work better than the old factory stuff.

Thanks, Yeah im sure it will do a miles better job, apparently this stuff is good for keeping temperatures down too. I suppose every little helps when you don't have air-con :down:

Wiring kit arrived yesterday, so I made a start on feeding the speaker wires from the doors through to the boot, then fed the power cable through a hole in the firewall.

Once I’d done that I put two RCA’s from the centre console and ran all the wires along the transmission tunnel.

Whilst I was doing the wiring I got a 6mm power cable with an in-line fuse fed through which I’ll use to power the fuel pumps as the standard wiring won’t be up to the job.

IMG_8817.jpg

IMG_8819.jpg

IMG_8820.jpg

IMG_8821.jpg

IMG_8822.jpg

IMG_8823.jpg

IMG_8825.jpg

And then finally I got to chuck the carpet back in!

IMG_8829.jpg

I’ve also managed to get the door locks out of the old car, I’ll be chucking these into the new car tomorrow I reckon. Then I can throw the door cards back on.

And then it’s just putting most of the interior back in place and freeing up more space in the garage!

Nice work with the dynamat, must feel good replacing the factory stuff with newer fresher stuff.

I removed all the sound deadening from my 32 sedan, sometimes regretting it. I guess I could always do what you've done.

Nice work with the dynamat, must feel good replacing the factory stuff with newer fresher stuff.
I removed all the sound deadening from my 32 sedan, sometimes regretting it. I guess I could always do what you've done.


Cheers, the previous owner removed all the factory sound deadening so this was the only real option for me. I’d have left the factory stuff in personally.

A 9 sheet pack will do the floor, and I still have a little bit of a sheet left to stick a bit behind the component speakers when I get to round to buying some.

So i managed to get a few jobs done this weekend,

First up, i got the door locks out of the old car and into the new one, little bit of fumbling around to get the circlips out, but apart from that it was mainly hassle free.

IMG_8860.thumb.JPG.d477f0147758ff4bdf277b92b7fcf950.JPG

i then proceeded to stick most of the front half of the interior back in, i'm keeping the air/fuel ratio gauge and oil pressure gauge out for the time being until i decide where i want to mount them. the boost gauge will also need a permanent home as it is just laying on the passenger floor for now. they were originally housed in some makeshift gauge holder where the centre vents sit, but i want something a bit more driver focused this time around.

IMG_8861.thumb.JPG.20aef9e64ee9421ce25e7f3299297659.JPG

IMG_8862.thumb.JPG.43705e5f1c1010afa826c1c050330d20.JPG

IMG_8863.thumb.JPG.e47e9eeac10f7464b0eb82c8569bb780.JPG

I also need to stick the plastics on around the steering wheel and underneath the dash, i need to swap out the steering wheel boss and indicator stalk though, as some wires have been cut. so i will install them plastics once i remove the boss. gonna make a remover at work out of some scrap flat bar and a welded nut, i'm only gonna use it once so no point buying one.

Once all that was done i set about changing the brakes over from the old car onto the new, (the discs are cracked on the new car so thought i might aswell get some more use out of the old ones). Also snapped a pic of the coilovers, they are literally brand new which is good to see!

IMG_8864.thumb.JPG.053233737661f942491ec5fa860b6c41.JPG

Old Brakes:

IMG_8866.thumb.JPG.eba6ce56846015b43a69ddfc62a9e54d.JPG

New Brakes changed over, yes the discs have surface rust, but only because they've been sat for a while:

IMG_8865.thumb.JPG.2583c0f39cc9b44a64d9b2156b9966fc.JPG

I also thought id fit the uprated front sway bar that came with the new car while the front end was lifted up. unless im missing something, i dont see how this new one will fit, and i cant find any information about a 30mm front swaybar for the GTS-T so im presuming its an S13/14 item or something. and i'll also need some D-clamps to make it fit.

comparison between old and new:

IMG_8869.thumb.JPG.e45e8ce183348b5eac3141392879f079.JPG

So i chucked the standard sway bar back on and lowered the car back down to the ground.

Moved onto the rear end, noticed the new car had a hicas lockout bar, and still has all the hicas stuff in the back, im gonna rip all this out and fit the eliminator kit from the old car. so i set about taking the rear hubs off the old car as these ones already have the tie rod ball joints taken out. Also got a nice suprise when i took the rotors off, turns out theres Project MU handbrake shoes in there!

IMG_8872.thumb.JPG.b894da6a14f36d4f19f8290e279a90eb.JPG

IMG_8874.thumb.JPG.8be145c58e80706e5afe2c5558b3eb3c.JPG

I also thought id throw in all the adjustable arms that came with the new car, i did fit the lower control arms, but didn't like the fit, so chucked the original ones back in.

IMG_8878.thumb.JPG.d8339d18ed27fb71f7b1616e09ff60d1.JPG

IMG_8881.thumb.JPG.7cb9d737080430af4f8a897df15b71a5.JPG

I've still got to reassemble it all, but will do that tonight. then move round to the passenger side and do the same again. Slowly ticking jobs off the list!

  • Like 3
  • 1 month later...

Not much of an update with regards to progress on the car, struggling to find time these days to get anything done apart from work!

I managed to finish the rear end off, got all the adjustable arms fitted and the Hicas lockout bar in place, also removed all the Hicas lines from the car.

IMG_9018.thumb.JPG.601376d738201dbc41988c30c4f4ad3f.JPG

IMG_9019.thumb.JPG.b43b3d65a902252f6fa1446fc47d758b.JPG

And the rear calipers are on too. Brakes just need bleeding, but this will have to wait till the engine and gearbox are in place.

IMG_9021.thumb.JPG.923c07f3bf27149bd8ce0504772b452d.JPG

Also got the steering wheel on and tidied up the remaining wiring so the interior is pretty much complete.

IMG_8926.thumb.JPG.99dbefbd3c6a9bc294a916825f029f56.JPG

IMG_8927.thumb.JPG.637129ce65aac65cc4c0034fdcde1e6a.JPG

I also needed to buy a "sensible daily" as my housemate is getting rid of the car i'd been borrowing while the skyline was off the road, so here she is.

IMG_9095.thumb.JPG.f8c72d6d7051e77c0f3474ae13c5841c.JPG

IMG_9091.thumb.JPG.837e1a1f39483fd0672fecf489e128f2.JPG

Hoping i can get some time in the next month or so to finish the skyline off. If not i'll probably put it all up for sale so someone who has the time can actually finish and enjoy it as i hate seeing it sat doing nothing!

Hopefully some updates will happen in the very near future! 

  • Like 2
5 minutes ago, PranK said:

Damn that suspension looks great!

 

Damn I want an Evo! :)

Im sure the wheel alignment place will have heaps of fun when it finally goes for an alignment, at least it looks nice :4_joy:

Yeah the evo is really fun to drive, its nice to have air con and be able to fit 4 adults in a car comfortably too!

  • 1 year later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There are adaptors that allow you to delete the booster and use an s15 clutch master cylinder.    if you want to keep the booster they are still available brand new 
    • I visited again today: It would appear they have painted the main body of the car and some parts of some of the panels, so I can say that I now have BMW parts in my car, much to the envy of @Dose Pipe Sutututu It is still covered in dust which is quite the tease but I did look at a few circumspect spots that will be behind bumpers and such and wiped some dust away: After my repeated begging to PLEASE DONT PAINT OVER THE ENGINEERING CERTIFICATE (you have to re-engineer the entire car if they do) I see THIS: Which is great. Excellent job tbh at least to me. A better non dusty example would be the backs of the doors that have been painted: Giving a reasonable contrast between old and new (I know the old isn't clear coated on the inside of doors). The door card will well and truly cover where the old paint is, you can see in the second pic some of the black butyl/whatever shit is sticking the plastic sheet behind the door transfer that has happened since it's clearly been stuck back on. The most maddening thing about this colour is every time I saw it in the wild it looks like another colour, same with photos of many cars with the same colour looking wildly different in every photo anybody ever takes and this is no exception. But stand a little further back and it suddenly looks dark AF. I did tell them when I was discussing which of the 70 million charcoal colours to choose from (a porsche one, a BMW one, or a R32 GTR one etc) that if they just ignored me and chose one at random I would probably never notice. Maybe they did. But the colour is supposed to be B39 (BMW Mineral Gray). Boring I know, but the R34 sedan (to me) really shows off it's boat-ness when you paint it in a bright colour like bayside blue or white or whatever else. I do have a fondness for AR2 Nissan Red, but decided against that because it'll have pretty odd contrast to random bits unpainted (like engine bay, bits of trim etc, and maybe it'll fade). And people will always fkin comment on AR2. Everything remains super dusty. I have tracking numbers for the new heads, as well as some Improved Racing goodies, but they probably will be a next year thing by the time they end up on the car. I did some maths on the heads and I know why nobody goes to this extent in Australia, because it's really not worth it, given I could have just CNC'ed my current heads, bought a FAST102/TB and used my current rocker/spring/cam combination and get a 383 stroker (or stroked a 6.0 GenIV bottom end to 6.6L) built for the same price of just the setup in the mail/on the floor here. Or I could have bought a LS3 and a Drysump system. And then have a complete engine to sell. Oh well
    • We just disconnected the vacuum line if I remember correctly, booster is still there. Is there a rebuild solution for the booster or a different adapter that will work for GTR chassis?
    • Yeah 4wd (boosted) has a recess in the firewall for the booster, and 2wd is flat - the example in the link shows the flat surface. When you deleted the booster, did you just attach the factory slave cylinder directly to the recess in the firewall with no adaption?  
    • Yes, but no. You need to keep the mating surfaces bare (ie the flat faces where the caliper and upright pads touch the dogbone) and also the internal threads will remain bare (unless there are no internal threads - do they use nuts on all the bolts?). So you can slow down obvious external corrosion, but not all of it. Anodising would be required to provide decent protection to the alloy, but I'm not actually sure if you should anodise something that is all about the strength. Anodising does reduce strength significantly. Like, up to 50% on some alloys for high thickness coating.
×
×
  • Create New...