Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

RB Stroker Kit Reliability & Quality

I've been searching for hours, and I probably still missed some good info, but I can't find exactly what I'm looking for.

So I have a new bare N1 block. I want to do a 2.8 kit for my BNR32. I don't want to get into an RB26 Stroker vs RD28 or RB30 argument here, lol, I have my reasons for going the route I am, and would rather focus on the info I am after. 

I mainly want to hear from people who have ran any stroker kit such as Nitto, Spool, JUN, Tomei, HKS, Etc (with mileage & power numbers if possible) their experiences in terms of driveability, power delivery (obviously dependent on turbos as well), and most importantly, reliability over time. I've been leaning towards Nitto, because I want to keep as long as a connecting rod as possible (I think the Spool 2.8 kit also has the factory length rod as well vs a shorter rod like the Tomei kit for example), for things such as increased dwell, decreased piston speed and side loading. 

I've read that Nitto (and Spool) outsource some of the parts (the crank itself I believe) to China, which isn't necessarily a deal breaker, but it does leave me a little hesitant. With that said, I know the majority of "Japanese Brands" also outsource their manufacturing (primarily to Taiwan in my experience). It all really comes down to quality control, which is why I'd like to hear from owners of said stroker kits and engine builders who've installed various brands on their experiences.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/469730-rb-stroker-kit-reliability-quality/
Share on other sites

I've also wondered about the quality of crank shafts in the popular stroker kits as you can go on alibaba and buy one from China for thousands less then through a vendor like nitto or spool etc. and if theirs also come from China well I've seen plenty of high hp cars successfully running them [emoji848][emoji848]

  • Like 1

I've seen a tomei making 475kw or 635 aussies hp at the wheels (will be more soon) and hasn't show any issues at all. 

driving it, I love the way it drives down low and I never realized what I difference .2 of a liter could make

 

can anyone confirm if the spool has the factory rod length?

  • Like 1
8 hours ago, LaurelPWR said:

I've also wondered about the quality of crank shafts in the popular stroker kits as you can go on alibaba and buy one from China for thousands less then through a vendor like nitto or spool etc. and if theirs also come from China well I've seen plenty of high hp cars successfully running them emoji848.pngemoji848.png

I would suspect the ones coming from Alibaba would be free of Nitto's/Spool's quality control (so possibly the rejected ones), so I'd steer clear of those! The factory's will do anything they can to make back what they can on rejected parts.

6 hours ago, r32-25t said:

I've seen a tomei making 475kw or 635 aussies hp at the wheels (will be more soon) and hasn't show any issues at all. 

driving it, I love the way it drives down low and I never realized what I difference .2 of a liter could make

 

can anyone confirm if the spool has the factory rod length?

Is this your own car by chance? If so, how long/many miles have you had it?

Evidence suggests that Nitto are the preferred option for most big HP cars, in saying that I know Rigoli have a few big HP cars running spool and a friend of mine is building a 3.2 spool stroker as we speak so will be interesting to see how that comes up.

 

The HKS stroker kits would have to have some special benefits given the price over say Nitto.

  • Like 1
8 hours ago, 2_Liter_Turbo said:

Is this your own car by chance? If so, how long/many miles have you had it?

It's actually a good mates car and I couldn't tell how many kms it's done but has been a few and it get driven hard when ever it does get driven 

  • Like 1
34 minutes ago, r32-25t said:

It's actually a good mates car and I couldn't tell how many kms it's done but has been a few and it get driven hard when ever it does get driven 

Awesome, that's good to hear!

you need to know your eventual goal first, if you want to be a competitive drag racer one day, then build 26/30-34, if you want to stay street the revier 2.8 is the way to go

obviously can't beat the jap quality if you have the coin, otherwise the
nitto/brian crower quality is also good

  • Like 1
3 hours ago, GD51LA said:

by the way my mate just bought a stroker sr20 crank from china and after picking it up from being tuned the bottom end shit itself, after the inspection the crank was to blame

Know by chance which brand it was? I'd expect to hear BC, knowing their reputation for poor quality SR stuff (I've been doing SRs since '05, so I have more experience with them, RBs I'm new to, lol).

3 hours ago, GD51LA said:

you need to know your eventual goal first, if you want to be a competitive drag racer one day, then build 26/30-34, if you want to stay street the revier 2.8 is the way to go

obviously can't beat the jap quality if you have the coin, otherwise the
nitto/brian crower quality is also good

Goals are for a high powered super fun street car. I may go to the drag strip once in awhile, but I am not after any records or competition. I road race my S14, so I have enough "race car" to keep me happy, ha ha. I just want a fun street car again. I am thinking of doing a single Borg Warner EFR 8374. But maybe an EFR 9174. I'd like to find what sort of powerbands people are getting with those on RB's before finally deciding.

Edited by 2_Liter_Turbo
by the way my mate just bought a stroker sr20 crank from china and after picking it up from being tuned the bottom end shit itself, after the inspection the crank was to blame


This is the info I wanted to hear! First hand experience with China stroker crank... Cheers mate
17 hours ago, 2_Liter_Turbo said:

Goals are for a high powered super fun street car. I may go to the drag strip once in awhile, but I am not after any records or competition. I road race my S14, so I have enough "race car" to keep me happy, ha ha. I just want a fun street car again. I am thinking of doing a single Borg Warner EFR 8374. But maybe an EFR 9174. I'd like to find what sort of powerbands people are getting with those on RB's before finally deciding.

Talk to Full-race about a Borg Warner EFR, go see them in person if they aren't too far away from you.

6 hours ago, Sick_R31 said:

Talk to Full-race about a Borg Warner EFR, go see them in person if they aren't too far away from you.

I intend to! I already have their EFR 7163 kit for my SR that I picked up in person ;) They are about 25 minutes from my house, ha ha!

  • 8 months later...

Had another question, figured I'd add to my existing thread rather than start a new one!

Does anyone have pictures of how far the piston comes down in relation to the cylinder walls? I want to see if how much (if any) of the skirt gets exposed from the sleeve before going back up the cylinder.

After stroker kits obviously, not the factory setups. 

Have been running a HKS 2.8 Step 2 (6466 turbo on E85) at 740whp since feb 2015. 

First year copped very frequent motorsport use (2 events a month) 

It has been parked up since as I now live overseas so doesn't give you too much to run off.  

 

 

  • Like 1
  • 1 year later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey was wondering if you ended up installing the R33 GTR speed sensor - I found one too and wanted to confirm it's a direct swap into the R34 6 speed?
    • After 23 years of owning a Skyline, finally had the latch go.  Followed this guide,  works like a dream again. Great Guide 👍
    • Hi all,   I’ve got the biggest lot of problems with my R33 GTS-T   It was a freshly rebuilt 25th anniversary RB25DET (plastic cas, neo cams) probably 6 years ago now   The engine was running so well but I fkd up badly and trusted someone I’d known for 10 years that was well known around Plazmaman for his welding and fab work. I added a lovely photo of some of his previous work. Not sure why my car was worked on by whoever did this shit     I’m normally someone who would never open myself up to something like this, I still can’t believe I did it. Trusting him literally fkd it all up for me. Everything has been a struggle, like it’s almost been 6 years that’s how much I’ve just on and off been trying to work it all out.    All I wanted was a car that danced down low, like full boost from around 3~3500rpm to redline, don’t really care what power it puts down (if it ever does) but I just wanted it to be quick to get on it.    He recommended the turbo to get, I picked Hypergear but he told me to get the front 4” with a T4 and 0.68 rear housing.    I was expecting all these beautiful welds, tidy fab work and paid for it to be ready to go to a tuner when I got it back.    I got a car back that was an absolute mess, I actually couldn’t believe it was my car anymore. I don’t think you could even call what he did welds, they’re disgusting.    So I stripped everything he touched off it and with every bolt I loosened it just got worse and worse.    I covered it and literally built and finished another car in the meantime but now it’s getting to the point where I really want my Skyline back.   Its a struggle because I paid him to do all this shit because I didn’t know how to and now I’ve had to try and figure it all out omg    Please excuse the bird shit horrible welds, I’ve got my show pony car and am so beyond dealing with this car I don’t even really care at this point.    If someone told me about what he did to my car I wouldn’t have believed them but it happened to me. It was unbelievable. He went missing, my car went missing, it came back missing parts, the straight af chassis rails bore the scars of being dragged up a trailer backwards, even the sandwich plate was bent. Everything was leaking and open to whatever fell into it, rounded off/ missing bolts, power steering oil and coolant everywhere, no gaskets, parts stolen off it, even managed to damage the sump pan.   Promised me he’d finish the car, knew what it meant to me, I paid him thousands and thousands just for him to trash it. He told me he was fully licensed and insured, come to find out he’d cancelled his ABN, so obviously no insurance. I had laid up insurance on the car and would’ve been covered but I was scared they would’ve written it off or because the business was no longer trading I’d still be liable.    He was supposed to:  New fully custom mild steam pipe exhaust manifold with turbo location moved from factory position to high forward mount. (I don’t know if it is a mild steam pipe, I’ve got a funny feeling the waste gate isn’t in a very good position and I don’t think the outlets off each cylinder are equal) 4” custom stainless steel dump with external gate (he re-plumbed it) Cut and shut OEM intake manifold with throttle reposition (I ended up doing the throttle reposition) Box in pod filter (left out) New 100cel catalytic converter (pretty sure it’s there but unsure if it’s 100cel) Front mount intercooler piping fabricated to suit (all smashed up and rusty holes where he was supposed to make it look standard where fmic piping passes through. I don’t even think my front bar is going to fit 🙄) Custom 5” intake pipe from pod to turbo (didn’t come with it so had to do something to make it work with the Z32 afm)   Engine: Full cylinder head service & machining  Brand new valves Precision upgraded spring kit Engine block honed New bearings  New piston rings  New ARP conrod bolt kit New ARP head studs Cometic head gasket VRS kit   ATR43SS2 ball bearing turbo 0.68 rear housing  Turbosmart 45mm external wastegate (got delivered to the fab bloke, I’ve got no idea what spring is in it, I’m assuming the one that came pre installed) Walbro 260 fuel pump  Nismo 740cc injectors (tested to 880) Spitfire coil packs GCG FMIC RB25DET manual 5 speed 4:11 rear diff   I’ve got an Apexi Power FC in it atm, I was hoping to just get it to operating temp to make sure everything was okay before towing to a tuner but it’s over-fuelling too much. I don’t think that’s going to happen so i think I’m going to get either a Link G4 or Haltech for it. What do you guys recommend? I can’t work out the power FC so just gonna give up on that one     It’s got an exhaust leak coming from somewhere I can’t see 🙄    The fuel pressure was steady but now it like drops from 40 to 20psi randomly (noticed this yesterday)    I’ll attach pics of the shit he put on my car and the engine bay now as it sits    I really just need some help, I need a tuner in Sydney I can trust, I’d like to be with the car while it’s being tuned if possible, I know it looks terrible but unfortunately I’ve just got to put up with it for now and fix the cosmetic stuff later   Do you guys think the manifolds are going to be okay? Or do I throw the exhaust manifold and try again?   I don’t even think these combinations are going to work tbh   I know everything I fitted was rated to be able to take at least 400kW but most rated higher    If you’ve gotten this far I really really appreciate it 🙏 I don’t mind if you trash me or the car, I made a rookie error and f**k I’ve paid for it. As you’ll see 🙄  
    • From everything I’ve heard you’ll be waiting a long time for  the parts to arrive 
    • Have you looked at the workshop manual?
×
×
  • Create New...