Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Nismo Super Coppermix Competition Edition - Bearing question

Hi All, 

Just received my clutch, such a beautiful piece of work!!

After the unboxing ceremony i realised the bearing is different to the one that is currently in the carrier. 

Was i sent the wrong clutch type?

this is for a 94 r32 gtr.

33678410465_e720232437_b.jpg

33678494865_05e1301584_b.jpg

 

You have been sent a pull type clutch which is the correct type of clutch for a 1994 gtr, your gearbox has been changed to a push type. Post a pic of where the slave cylinder bolts to the gearbox, it might have been converted to a push type.

  • Like 2

unless it is a problem you should return the clutch and get a push type one.  there are push/pull clutch converters or you can change the gearbox back to pull with a bit of work, but by far the easiest is getting the right clutch.

BTW as sick_r31 said your car should be pull type clutch if it is a 94, so something has happened changed it left the factory or you have the wrong build year

thanks for the replies so far guys, its a massive help. its a bit tricky to get a good shot of the side of the gearbox at the moment but as per the pic below you can see the bolts protruding through the bell housing for where the slave sits. by all accounts my gearbox appears to be a push type yes?

returning it is a bit of an issue. im thinking it might be easier to get a pull type front gearbox cover and fork to convert it to a pull type. is this all that is needed?

33540880412_195018f197_b.jpg

 

 

If your gearbox looks like the pic below you have a pull type gearbox that has been converted to a push type, if your gearbox is missing the threaded holes on the left of the dust boot cover you have a push type gearbox and it can't be converted to a pull type. If you have option 2 you might be better off looking for a R33 gtr gearbox.

DSC00011.jpg 

Here's the part numbers for what's required to convert it back if it's option 1

30536-12U00-

30678-12U00- x2

00923-11610-

32154-12U00-

30531-12U10-

30539-12U00-

30542-12U00-

32110-12U01

30620-12U23

  • Like 1

umm can't really answer that.  the bolts imply it is a push clutch (assuming that's where the slave was). If you want to convert to pull you use the 2 bolt holes on the other side of the dust cover, and change the front cover, fork, release bearing and carrier as listed above

what we really need is a pic inside the bellhousing which must be possible because no engine attached....

8 hours ago, Duncan said:

umm can't really answer that.  the bolts imply it is a push clutch (assuming that's where the slave was). If you want to convert to pull you use the 2 bolt holes on the other side of the dust cover, and change the front cover, fork, release bearing and carrier as listed above

what we really need is a pic inside the bellhousing which must be possible because no engine attached....

The box has a push style fork and slave cylinder when i removed the engine. I put the bolts back in there so i dont lose them. 

7 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

The rear bosses don't look like they have threads tapped in them.

Its a poor quality picture but they are actually threaded. 

Edited by WantGTR

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Don't be ridiculous. "2-3 ugga duggas or one Oof. You have to use Oof on tie rods because you can't get an ugga dugga on there." Is not helping the guy at all.
    • I have done a lot of research before posting here and on gtruk forum. couldn't find anything. I have my gauges all part except the needle itself. the needle has a extremely small hole in the center, but the shaft going to the needle is extremely small and appears to have nothing to index it either. doesn't seem strong enough to simple pry or pull without damaging something. Already tried the old spoon trick on a extra triple meter I have from a gtt, but no luck. the center cap comes off easily but the hole in the meter face plate aren't big enough to get over the needle itself. figured this would be my best place to find someone who might have actually removed theirs. wonder if there is some type of small pin press tool to push the pin in while pulling the needle base off.
    • Ok...its taking me long enough to finally do this.  Feck financial security...heart disease will get me soon enough anyway So welcome to the garage..."Clem" Belsil80 has been running a 370Z in Super TT series. So after entering with him in last years Winton 300 i figured I  need my own car. Seems SAU Vic race cars need to be yellow....{tick} Reckon with enough motor i will be able to make up for the lack of talent and stay ahead of the 370Z... but the LS powered S13 and E36s are a ways up the road Aim is to have a car that doesnt stop or turn but has a bit of shed built motor with jam...maybe some cream  First step is getting this ex drift car log booked I am keeping faithful silver car. As the road-club car gets upgrades the race car wil get the sloppy seconds
    • Assuming that they will come off without damage at all.... i would have thought just pull straight up off the spindle with a something or other than can reach underneath. Have you searched for youtube vids of people doing similar on R34s or any other Nissan from the same vintage? They should be the same technique, in all likelihhood.
    • Keeping in mind that sandblasting is really aggressive on softer metals like cast alloy, and you can do damage that you might regret. For trash wheels, not a problem. For wheels with value/scarcity issues, etc.... perhaps a less aggressive media is a better choice?
×
×
  • Create New...