sa 1993 R32 GTST, RB30DET, 281 RWKW + Mods

[R32Abuser]

1993 R32 GTST, RB30DET, 281 RWKW + Mods

1993 R32 GTST M-Spec, Owned since 2004 @ 128,000km....Current km ~175,000km

PRICE: $10,000 ONO  CONTACT: 0401 317 009 (David)

 

ENGINE

RB25/30DET (R32 RB25DE head, RB30E series 2 block)

CP 9:1 Forged Pistons

Spool 4340 H Beam Rods

ARP rod fasteners 

ACL Race Series main bearings

ACL Race Series big end bearings

ARP head bolts

Cometic MLS head gasket

refer to - http://www.spoolimports.com/spool-engine-rebuild-kits/nissan/rb30det-rebuild-kit/holden-nissan-rb30det-dohc-rebuild-kit-with-cp-forged-pistons-9-0-1

This motor probably only has about 7000km on it from when it was built in 2011.

Garrett GT3076R 0.82 A/R Turbo

3 inch metal intake pipe to turbo

Trust VSPL FMIC

Blitz DSBC Dual Stage boost controller (Low boost ~15 PSI, High Boost ~19-20 PSI)

Q45 AFM

Bosch 550cc Injectors

NisTune R32 RB20DET computer with map to suit above setup on BP98

Bosch 040 fuel pump

Nismo adjustable fuel regulator

3" Turbo back exhaust (Bell mouth style dump to suit GT30 to Catalytic converter to resonator, to JUNBL rear muffler)

I have parts of a replacement exhaust system which would quiet it down a little more which I'd throw in.

Power - makes 281 RWKW on Jaustech's dyno (can attach dyno plot)...240 of those RWKW available from about 4000RPM.

Could crack the 300 RWKW with bigger injectors and a Z32AFM. 

DRIVELINE

RB25GTST G/box (std internals)

Nismo engine mounts

Nismo gearbox mounts

Jim Berry "race" clutch (reasonably light on the foot, but does bite hard)

OEM flywheel

Modified RB20 GTST tail shaft (w/ RB25 yoke) to suit gearbox and diff

STD OEM V-LSD diff (I have an R34 RB25 Neo torsen differential at home which is easy to fit up...just needs backlash to be setup)

STD OEM driveline otherwise (more than adequate for the power output)

SUSPENSION

Full Sydneykid Bilstein/Whiteline setup (http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/85591-r32-gtst-whiteline-bilstein-suspension/):

Bilstein B4 "c" clip height adjustable shocks valved to suit suspension setup

Whiteline "lowered" (25mm lower than stock) springs

Whiteline front and rear fixed anti roll bars

Whiteline front upper camber arms (adjustable)

Whiteline front adjustable castor bushes

Whiteline rear camber arms (outer IIRC)

Volk Racing GT-P's (old school) 8" fronts, 9" rears IIRC (they came with the car back in 2004)

Bridgeston Adrenaline RE001 235/45/17 fronts and rears IIRC

Not fitted but will chuck in -

Whiteline HICAS elimination kit

Whiteline subframe replacement bushes (NOT PINEAPPLES)

Superpro diff bushes

Superpro steering rack bushes 

few other odds and ends which I have accumulated over the years

BODY

Genuine R32GTR front bar (will throw in the OEM mesh that goes over the intercooler)

R32 GTR rear wing

R32 GTR rear boot

Will throw in: GTR style fibreglass side skirts (in primer)

R32 GTST boot/wing

Issues - one of the rear quarters has a sizeable dent in it about the size of a football and about as deep as a book (thickness). I have been quoted about $600 to fix it and paint. The boot also has a small dent in it also. IIRC I was quoted about $1000 (maybe a touch more) to fit the side skirts, fix the dents and paint. Will post photos when I get a chance. 

MISC

R32 GTR centre console tripple gauges (not connected)

Alpine head unit 

GReddy turbo time (not connected)

Viper (unknown model) immobiliser

Not fitted but will throw in:

Focal 6.5" front splitters (cost me $500 at the time and never fitted)

Alpine 4 channel amp

wiring kit to suit the above

Viper immobiliser (remote start capable, few other features)

There's probably a few other things I've missed out but that will do for now...

Reason for selling - I cannot economically justify owning it anymore!

Pictures are located here - 

 

[crazy1]

Hi,

is your inbox full..... Says you can't receive messages.....

[R32Abuser]

All sorted now...

[WHITEBEAST]

really nice choice of motor setup. Is this engineered for this motor? Or will the buyer need to put back to a RB20 for RWC? Just thought i'd ask the question.

[R32Abuser]

Engine is not engineered for SA. 

Here in SA we don't need RWC

[R32Abuser]

For reference, here is the dyno graph from a few years back.

img-301131610-0001.pdf

[R32Abuser]

Had a few questions which I thought I'd post the response:

 

Straight? Has it had any accidents? Repaired damage etc(other than that stated in you post)

No major accidents.

Only accident repair that I have had was relatively minor damage caused to the front bar/bonnet as a result of a driveway collision. The Bonnet was repaired and the front bar and reinforcement bar that were scrapped and replacement items fitted.

Any rust?

On the roof there is a tiny spot the size of a ball point (from a pen). You would barely noticed it if you tried looking and didn't know the car. It appears to be surface rust. 

On the damage (stated in the post), where the object has contacted the panel, there is a small amount of surface rust. If I wanted to, I could remove it...however this would only be a temporary fix. 

Engine

Was it built by a professional builder?

Yes - AutoSolutions and Restorations was the assembler. Majority of the engine work was done by Lewis Engines 

Was the crank machined and grub screwed etc? Larger crank collar drive for the oil pump fitted?

Yes and Yes. For reference, it has an RB25DET S2 oil pump fitted (the one with the larger drive area from memory) 

Oil restrictors fitted to the head? And rear head oil drain?

Yes - as per the RB30 guide and RB30 thread based on it being a street car. 

Oil head drain -

Yes, drained back to the baffled/winged race sump via a 1.5-2" (approx.) flexible hose.

have you head any issues with the engine? Erroneous Knocking etc?

Initially we had issues being able to wind timing in it without it knocking - see below post:

End result was it just needed a bit more work in the tune.

Erroneous knocking - was found to be the old knock sensors triggering under light load. Solution was for the ECU to ignore the knock sensors (install a resistor inside of the ECU) and the tuner used knock ears and tuned very conservatively.

Be aware, like a lot of forged builds, there is some piston slap especially when cold. With the hood down, inside the cabin, you can "just" notice it from time to time. But it's best to hear in person. 

was the turbo new?

No - was off a forum member Cubes (Joel) here in adelaide. Was stored meticulously by him (and I) until it was installed onto the car. Not sure of km done by Cubes, but I rebuilt the motor at around 168000km and it now has in the high 170000kms (can't remember actual figure). 

standard cams?

No - Tomei 256/8.5mm cams on both the intake and exhaust.

Do you have any regrets, or things you would have done differently with the build?

To be honest, for the power, I could have probably got away with a standard RB30 bottom end and a conservative tune. Sure it wouldn't have made as much power, or be quite as responsive (lower static CR), but it would have been cheaper and given me 90% of the result. 

The power figure seems on the low side.... What boost was that on?

See attached dyno graph. 

As per above, tuner was very conservative with the tune. 

any other issues with the car? Electrics not working? Air con not working? Etc. etc.

Aircon - havent used it in a while so probably doesn't work.

The GTR triple gauges are not hooked up (it was more to fill the DIN void)

Oil pressure sender (and therefore oil pressure gauge) occasionally will cut out. Engine has been verified multiple times to have correct oil pressure.

[Black R32]

Still for sale?

 

[R32Abuser]

Long gone!