Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

R33 GTST wont start with Haltech ECU

Hey there,

So i'm new to this forum and i did some looking around to see if i could find anything similar to my problem and there were a couple but not 100%. 

Anyways the problem i'm having is i bought a haltech platinum sport 2000 (the plug n play) and i installed it simple enough. 

While i was doing this i also installed some nismo 555cc injectors. The base map that comes with the ecu is set for the stock injectors.

now after adjusting the fuel map the car wont start i tried messing around with some of the other setting to see if I could find anything wrong but to no solution it will crank but its only cranking around 150-200 rpm.

I'm getting fuel i even tried using some starter fluid to see if that was my issue but nothing . i'm pretty sure that my timing is off but i'm not certain if anyone would be kind enough to supply me with a map for the injectors i have or if anyone wouldn't mind looking at my map to see if they can find something wrong with it i would eternally grateful.

Edited by Johnsontke
updated info

Ya i loaded a base map and changed the injector size i also looked around and people were saying to do some math like stock injectors divided by new size and reduce the fuel table by the difference. which map sensor would be the correct one?

Edited by Johnsontke

Ok sorry for responding so late i just checked it and its dropping to around 8v then itll jump up to 10v and it actually revs a good amount it sounded like it wanted to start but it wouldnt and then i got the smell of gas pretty hard. So i checked the cylinders but they arent flooded so im gonna stick the battery on a charger tonight and try again tomorrow any other suggestions?

PM me your exact mods, and what is connected to what input and how everything is wired up e.g. AN1 goes to IAT, etc.

I'll send you a tune file tonight when I'm at home on my tuning laptop. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That's f**ked up. I'd guess it's more likely that you have an entire S13 subframe in there. Does it still have HICAS mounting points? Seeing as it is quite possible that yours is the only such converted car in the world, you'll probably struggle to find someone who can tell you from direct experience. 'Twere I you, I'd be looking for 4 stud Skyline rear brakes and convert back. At a minimum. Preferably go find all the stuff you need to put it back to 5 stud (assuming you're happy to change wheels) and upgrade to some decent brakes. You don't even need much stock stuff. Don't need calipers or rotors, as you can go fully aftermarket. Just needs hubs and the other bits and bobs that are different to what you have now.
    • The engine has nothing to do with it. The physical space behind the headlight is the limiting factor. And the height. The height of the NS70 is the same as stock. So the clamp bar across the top goes on nice. The battery tray is big enough for it to sit on. The X is for extra capacity - it has even more lead in it than the non-X NS70. Heavy f**ker. But it's not a track car, so I will suffer a couple of extra kg. In the case of the R34, maybe the physical space there is not as deep (forward-backward, not up down). Hence why they say the 60 is the biggest. But I would never trust a catalogue to tell me what will fit. I have the car. I have the existing battery. I have the tape measure. I have the dimensions of all the available batteries. I find the biggest box that will go in. (With the right terminals in the right places, of course).  
    • Hello! I have been having a hard time finding the answer to this question… I have a R32 GTS-T Sedan than has been 4 lug swapped using S13 hubs, rotors, and brakes. The front has also been converted to S13 suspension.    When the swap was completed, the handbrake cables were never hooked up, as the S13 rear calipers are the “handbrake”, and not the typical drum on rotor that the R chassis are. Does anyone know handbrake cables that will work for this conversion? I’d like to not use a hydraulic handbrake and stick with the traditional cable style. My original thoughts were to go with S14 cables and try to make them work, since I’m pretty sure S13 cables will be too short.    Any help would be appreciated!
    • I did some research, considering you have a neo engine, how is that battery compatible? I checked centuries website and super cheap and says it's not compatible. Only this full size one is. https://www.centurybatteries.com.au/products/ns60-mf
    • No, lets be honest here. I went to Winton and did a track day, for all the mods and V8 power and craziness I posted up a time that a K24 stock motor Honda Accord can do on the same tyres (narrower, too) 250kw and learning how to drive the f**kin thing is the sweet spot.
×
×
  • Create New...