Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Spacers

Consensus on running a small 3mm slip on hub centric spacer to gain some clearance to the shock tower to allow a little more camber? 

Stock S13 wheel nuts, haven't measured thread engagement just yet. 

4 stud car so finding wheels is painful. 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/469977-spacers/
Share on other sites

I looked at using those, smallest was 10mm though so I thought I'd end up with guard clearance issues, plus then the front track will be wider than the rear, by default the rear is wider, and in my case wider again as it has the S14 rear subframe. 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/469977-spacers/#findComment-7823488
Share on other sites

Checked threads, not comfortable running spacer on those. 

Given how hard it is to find a square set of 4 stud 17x9, any issue with running 10mm bolt on spacers only at the front? Would mean front track was wider than rear, which is not standard. 

Or could  just run them all round, keep track even and make car wider. 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/469977-spacers/#findComment-7824770
Share on other sites

Or another idea. 

Could use hub centric 15mm or 20mm 4 stud bolt on spacer and then be able run the rear 17x9 rim i have from the other set of the same rims on the front so I can get 255 on it all round). 

Seems there's plenty of guys on there using proper hub centric bolt on spacers, it;s non hub centric and slip on people don;t like. 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/469977-spacers/#findComment-7824779
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

I would say no, if the car has even track width side to side there should be no impact on HICAS, maybe the rack works a touch harder as the wheel has been moved further away from the axis of pivot.

Get your rear alignment checked and inspect the HICAS tie rod ends for wear and play of you want to keep it in, otherwise, Lock it out but do it properly where you press the tie rod ends out. 

 

 

 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/469977-spacers/#findComment-7830628
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I’m with Shannon’s for all 5 of our cars. Agreed values seem fair, premium price is okay. ($210 ish a month, all comprehensive).  Have claimed once with them for a not at fault claim with another car where my car had no damage. Was one call after the incident and an email after. Deemed not at fault so premium didn’t go up either.    I have called up and spoken with people who are not familiar with certain cars and didn’t agree with me on value or let their personal vehicle preferences effect the call. But called back later and got someone else who was more agreeable.  
    • It is an absolute lottery. They can and have died at stock boost with low usage at all. The turbos are now anywhere up to 36 years old!
    • Huh, wonder why it blew then. I never really beat on the car THAT hard lol I dailyed it and the turbo blew after 6 months
    • That's odd, it works fine here. Try loading it on a different device or browser? It's Jack Phillips JDM, a Skyline wrecker in Victoria. Not the cheapest, but I have found them helpful to find obscure parts in AU. https://jpjdm.com/shop/index.php
    • Yeah. I second all of the above. The only way to see that sort of voltage is if something is generating it as a side effect of being f**ked up. The other thing you could do would be to put a load onto that 30V terminal, something like a brakelamp globe. See if it pulls the voltage away comepletely or if some or all of it stays there while loaded. Will give you something of an idea about how much danger it could cause.
×
×
  • Create New...