Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Pretty sure CEF33Y is running a TD05-18G from memory.

Here is a bit more info and another pic because your image doesn't work on mobile lith.

1NWW5YW.jpg

4bFRymq.jpg

It says it's in a nissan housing but doesn't mention what A/R. Either way its pretty shit and the exact opposite of what i am looking for haha. I agree that a 7163 would crush it and i'm hoping a 6758 would be miles ahead in repsonse and still make roughly the same power. 

Price wise the best i have found for a 6758 here in Australia is;

$1506 for a iron bearing supercore
$630 AUD for a G type (T4 TS .80 A/R) turbine housing
$16 for turbine locking tabs
$78 for wastegate brcaket kit and i already have an EFR compatible single port turbosmart wastegate

So roughly $2200 compared to the $2800 that cartel online has them listed for (which is the cheapest in AUS) and the $3000 that GCG has them for.

Almost ready to pull the trigger on buying this EFR setup!

  • Like 1
1 hour ago, iruvyouskyrine said:

Pretty sure CEF33Y is running a TD05-18G from memory.

 

Nah, I'm running a Hypergear OP6 highflow.

Stock manifolds, unopened motor, just supporting mods on 98. Cheap setup, and i'm pretty happy with it (read- used to the lag)

Super keen to see what results you get though.

  • Like 1

Ah yeah, 18Gs are one of my less favourite units funnily enough - not least because they are heading in the direction of 20Gs for lag and 16Gs for power... hence I figure you go either 16G or 20G, there is no worthwhile in between despite everyone going for the 18G for some reason. <edit: I see Cef33y isn't, though the same still applies but it's more understandable that it's got so little at 4000>

Cool man, would love to see how that setup will go on a 20!!!  There is a disclaimer I always give for EFRs, don't jump to any conclusions of how it is performing until you actually drive it :)

Edited by Lithium

Yeah my bad i was thinking of CRSKmD! Yeah im sure it would be fun but the lag would be horrible for me (coming from a RB25/30 neo with a SS2 .82 rear). I fking love RB20's though and a 260-300kw RB20 is not by any means a slow thing. Sure its no absolute powerhouse but that is heaps of power to go and have fun at a track day/drift day. So i am obviously trying to cook up the best streetable RB20 possible.

17 hours ago, Lithium said:

Cool man, would love to see how that setup will go on a 20!!!  There is a disclaimer I always give for EFRs, don't jump to any conclusions of how it is performing until you actually drive it :)

And drive it i will! This is not going to be a car that lives in the shed, will be driving it daily as much as i can haha. I think i found your mate with the 7163 on the 3sGTE on youtube as well.

FWIW i have purchased a Garage7 IPC and will be using that in this build also. Seems like a very cool but of gear but will be interesting to see how it actually works in the real world.

59 minutes ago, iruvyouskyrine said:

Yeah my bad i was thinking of CRSKmD! Yeah im sure it would be fun but the lag would be horrible for me (coming from a RB25/30 neo with a SS2 .82 rear). I fking love RB20's though and a 260-300kw RB20 is not by any means a slow thing. Sure its no absolute powerhouse but that is heaps of power to go and have fun at a track day/drift day. So i am obviously trying to cook up the best streetable RB20 possible.

Yeah, my cars have always been laggy, so don't know what I'm missing, haha

At 240rwkw, its plenty for what I do (drifting). Bonus is I don't use as many tires as other peeps.

 

 

They're saying that the turbo is creeping like hell and they managed to control it via their IPC (and a very soft spring I suppose) instead of porting the shit out of the wastegate.
So yes I think there is room for improvement, beginning by the wastegate porting.

  • 2 weeks later...
8 hours ago, driftnick13 said:

It's on a hub dyno, not sure if that makes a difference.

Nope, I've had a 50trim T3/T04E on the stock manifold a hub dyno with a stock RB20 and it was similar to the GTX on that plot... unless a VERY fast sweep was selected it seems rather laggy for what it is.

  • 2 weeks later...

Turbo purchased and should be here in next 2 weeks. Manifold getting made at the moment :) really wanted to make an exact copy of the Gibson one but there was a few factors stopping it and I ended up going a different route. Manifold is getting made with a 8374 so if i ever go RB26 it will fit perfectly no dramas. Baby little 6758 should fit easily haha.

Cooler piping will be done when turbo turns up.

received_10212408355514650.jpegreceived_10212414287582948.jpegreceived_10212414286222914.jpeg

  • Like 3

A hole in the bonnet should do it. It'll be easier after the first outing, just cut out the burnt area of paint!

Should be a fun car to drive, there's something about revving the crap out of an rb20 that feels good.

A hole in the bonnet should do it. It'll be easier after the first outing, just cut out the burnt area of paint!
Should be a fun car to drive, there's something about revving the crap out of an rb20 that feels good.


I know right! I honestly really do love them. Cant wait to spin this thing as hard as I can :)
Should sound great with that manifold, post some videos up when it's done.


Hopefully mate! The sound was a large part of the reason I went with a manifold like this. Will be going 3" straight through with twin 3.5" tips from Diff back

As I said there was a couple of reasons I couldn't go Gibson style, that was originally what I wanted. But after talks with my fabricator and facing some facts I decided on just going a completely custom manifold. Hopefully i can still get it to sound as close as possible to the Gibson item.

After deciding not to go with the Gibson I though I would try the gts-r manifold route. But decided against that in the end too. I have some tasty up close pics of a gts-r manifold though if you want them [emoji14]

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It was roughly 3.5 hours.    car went in around 11:00 and I was done around 2:30 He did the initial runs, install the BC and then Nistune install and tune.  The best part was sitting in the lobby and hearing the skyline on full throttle at the dyno 😂😂
    • Glad it all went smooth. How long did the tuning process take?
    • Yeah that was kind of the same feedback my tuner gave me.  the boost tee is until I can sort out my plan for the electronic boost controller and what I’d get, where I’d mount the dash etc.  I’m happy with this until I can figure it out. Not a big fan of the A-pillar gauges. I’d like to get a clean install of the boost gauge - something digital like GFB.  Something like that might fit neatly where the ashtray is and look clean. I feel like replacing the OEM triple gauge is a bit extreme for a weekender like my skyline. And it’s not making crazy power to need all the additional sensors/gauges. 
    • I'm about to swap my box to Tremec T56 Magnum F & initially thinking of re-using my DCS twin plate (can get it re centred for the bigger spline) but it's been called out the box will be noisy (rattle) as the clutch is unsprung.  So I'm doing as much research as possible. I'm not so worried about holding the power as I'll go the track version which on paper will hold the maybe 1000hp I make. It's the longevity I worry about. DCS told me they don't use a sprung centre as it's just something that can break. The uni clutch has a very complicated sprung centre. Any one had or heard about any issues with it failing? Thanks in advance.
    • Auto is at least 10% (from my real, actual experience with different torque converters and manual on the same setup) ~185rwkw at 11.6psi (peak!) is entirely what one would expect without a FMIC or anything else on the intake, it does bleed off towards the higher RPM so it's what, 9psi there? Note: There is nothing that can be done about this with a manual boost tee. If you want to hold it steady and gain more top end, well - You will need electronic boost control.....
×
×
  • Create New...