RB20 Turbo selection (twinscroll housing advice)

[iruvyouskyrine]

Wiggins do allow for 8degrees of misalignment per clamp (4deg per ferrule) but in my case it doesn't really matter as I am running solid engine mounts [emoji1]

[iruvyouskyrine]

Also it's an RB20 so having the engine move due to torque shouldn't be an issue haha

[admS15]

Agree, rb20 and torque in the same sentence = nice joke. Lol hahaha

[Dale FZ1]

As a matter of interest Josh, what have you done for solid mounts?

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

3 hours ago, iruvyouskyrine said:

I don't do things by half measure, except for using a NIStune haha

Nistune is the best, especially with the feature pack and a R35 AFM

[iruvyouskyrine]

As a matter of interest Josh, what have you done for solid mounts?

Got my mate to spin up some custom alloy mounts that position the engine as close to the firewall as possible (10mm further back than standard R33 mounts would position it). Will find some pics of them for you.

[iruvyouskyrine]

Nistune is the best, especially with the feature pack and a R35 AFM

Yeah I have feature pack v2, Flex fuel kit and using HPX-N1 [emoji5]️

[Kanaric]

Wondering if there are any updates on this, would like to see a dyno plot lol. 

Basically in my situation i'm looking for the same thing this guy is. I have a Hypergear SS1.5 and while it makes the power I want I find I really do need power 1000+ rpms earlier. I live in the US and do track and autocross and I find i'm doing autocross way more and I just am out of the power band constantly while when the car was stock I was fine. 

 

I have a FD RX7 that I was going to keep stock but the power on that car if I were to just mod it with stock turbos would be perfect to me. I just want to NOT do that since a completely unmodded mint low mile RX7 is a rarity over here. 

It took a lot of work to get the car running right up to this point and I don't want to replace the engine. If I have to do that i'd just sell the car and use the money from that and put it into the RX7. Which I don't want to do lol.

Hoping to see some results so I can make a decision.

[GTSBoy]

RB25 fixes this.

[Dale FZ1]

A 4.6 or 4.8 diff ratio will work wonders, faster engine speed for given road speeds.

[Kanaric]

14 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

RB25 fixes this.

Not necessarily. In my case part of the reason I want to stay RB20 is because in my autocross class I can run much lower weight with a 2 liter. Also there is another event I participate in that has a separate class for 2l turbos and above 2l. That is the cutoff. Above 2l is against modern V8 cars

There is another class at that same event I could be in for 89 and earlier cars but I would have to increase weight to 3200lbs. 

 

RB25 would be inconvenient. It'sliterally the difference between me facing a C6 z06 Corvette or a S13

Edited May 22, 2018 by Kanaric

[Dale FZ1]

8 hours ago, Kanaric said:

In my case part of the reason I want to stay RB20 is because in my autocross class I can run much lower weight with a 2 liter. 

Change the rear end gearing.  Make the engine run in its happy zone.  RB20 requires revs.

[e30h26]

What were the results in the end?

[Lithium]

I have on good authority there has been a bit of feature creep

[iruvyouskyrine]

Finally everything is finished!.............................. Naht.

As is tradition with car builds right near the end i have decided to change a whole heap of things for no reason other than i felt like it. Luckily its really only the ECU and the loom that will be changing, all else will remain the same (with the exception of removing the ABS as the Link can't do that)

Long story short is that everything was in and running using the NIStune and the Garage 7 IPC. Tuned by Jez on 98 octane running 12psi it made 180kw and then went into the shed for the last 9 months as i had lots of other more important stuff going on in my life. Only running such baby boost as this is a 10.5:1 engine and its absolutely begging for E85 and 3x the boost.

To my surprise the car was disgustingly slow. Like honestly beyond belief slow, although this was all just driving around my street unrego'd so never really got up it. But i had forgotten to swap the diff out because it is terribly mismatched to the RB25 gearbox. Diff in it currently is a 3.6 and new diff going in is the more appropriate match for an RB20 being a 4.3 so that should make it feel quite a bit better i would hope. 

Anyway tonight it will get new diff and rego so i  can put some KM on it and then in the next month or two it will get a full rewire, Link Extreme ECU, Plex MicroSDM 100, and as many sensors as i can throw at it. Then off for a full flex tune and hopefully enjoy it over summer!

[Dale FZ1]

Post up a graph for this thing.  With only 12psi not that surprising it's making that sort of numbers.  Air mass flow requires some boost, and air comes free!

Gearing will transform the driveability.

 

[iruvyouskyrine]

No graph but felt somewhat responsive on the street with 9 month old 98 octane in the tank. Drove it for one day and truck crashed into me and wrote the car off. Probably no new updates for a while.

[iruvyouskyrine]

That was after i put a 4.33 diff in it also. That helped heeeeeaps.

[Gts-t]

On 21/11/2018 at 10:52 AM, iruvyouskyrine said:

No graph but felt somewhat responsive on the street with 9 month old 98 octane in the tank. Drove it for one day and truck crashed into me and wrote the car off. Probably no new updates for a while.

Omg gutted the car was written off? Still no updates to this? 

On 21/11/2018 at 10:55 AM, iruvyouskyrine said:

[iruvyouskyrine]

Nothing has happened for a while but it kicked off again recently. Will be same same but different. Complete PRP and MoTeC catalogue thrown at the car. Will keep you updated