Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

R32 GTR dyno numbers pump gas

So this is to help some people out and not let them continue on these crazy pipe dreams lol. First off my car was dynoed at all 4 wheels on as they called it the heart braking dyno and I learned why. So before I post a video here's the specs 

temp out side today maybe in the 70s 

sea level elevation 

1990 Nissan R32 GTR 

42,000 miles 

stock turbos 

Apexi standalone with stock Mafs 

greddy suction Kit 

hks hard piping 

hks Bov 

Arc intercooler 

blitz front pipes 

stock turbos stock manifolds stock dumps 

test pipe to 3.5" hks exhaust 

stock fuel injectors rail pump and pressure 

Greddy Profec the new one 

my car on 93 octane made 325hp and 301 TQ at  18 PSI and then the turbos said hold my beer and watch this. So long story short a custom set of garrets 2860s is gonna be made ported manifolds that are jet coated with coated tomei dumps the new style. I find it hard to believe the stock fuel system supports 450hp now when we where at 75% duty cycle at 18 pounds of boost and 325hp. So hopefully with the custom set of garrets I can get closer to that 400awd numbers but from what my tunning guys said it's gonna be hard with injectors haltech pump rail and stage 2 cams I'll be happy to see high 400s 

IMG_4104.mov

0D668EF1-B86B-4306-8995-A2FB5D88693D.JPG

8384E5C6-EF09-4E7E-BA01-986576A914AE.JPG

 

Link to the dyno video 

 

Edited by Dirty3092
Added a video
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/470007-r32-gtr-dyno-numbers-pump-gas/
Share on other sites

The stock fuel system supports ~450HP AT THE ENGINE.  Your 325HP is measured at the wheels, and it will be some larger number than that at the engine but because you're in the US and we don't trust the at wheels numbers to be comparable to what we know we get here in Oz, I can't tell you what the engine power number might be.  As an example, if you were making 325HP at the wheels on a Dyno Dynamics here in Oz, we'd expect you'd be nearly running out of injector already, you'd be up over 400 HP at the engine.

Stage 2, what about stage 6?

Americans and their stages.. Just as bad as VAG owners with their stage 1, 2, 3 reflashes for 1.2k lol.

Get some better injectors and run a bit more boost. Boost doesn't kill motors, rubbish tunes do.

Also, either throw out your HKS exhaust for a proper 3.5" custom system or cut apart the muffler and remove the internal restrictor, then weld it back together. 

  • Like 1
5 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Stage 2, what about stage 6?

Americans and their stages.. Just as bad as VAG owners with their stage 1, 2, 3 reflashes for 1.2k lol.

Get some better injectors and run a bit more boost. Boost doesn't kill motors, rubbish tunes do.

Also, either throw out your HKS exhaust for a proper 3.5" custom system or cut apart the muffler and remove the internal restrictor, then weld it back together. 

HKS stage 2 cams ? Or is there another name for them.  The reason we didn't throw injectors in it is because I didn't want to spend the 3500 on doing the fuel system all at once. Now where doing 28650-5s with billet wheels ported factory manifolds since everything else is known to crack and the new cast Tomei dumps. The hks exhaust im running now has been fully gutted the silencer has been removed and the can has been gutted and straight piped. I don't know how it is in Australia but everything for the GTRs is a arm and a leg. Second hand parts doesn't really exist. So after all the turbo stuff is done we will retune the car and I'll have to deal with low boost untill it goes back for full fuel upgrade and Maxx Ecu. Then wait some time and upgrade the oil pump oil cooler Greddy intake manifold and HKS stage 2 cams with head studs and a gasket. When I started out with this car I wasn't expecting to spend 15k to make the same amount of power as my 5 series lol 

That'll help. You don't need to spend $3500 on fuel unless you are after monster HP - just new injectors and fuel pump. Stock inlet manifold will be fine. Just dump the twins for a single,  get a Link or something and wind up the boost!

Scroll down this page and have a look at the video: http://www.goodezilla.com/rb26dett-skyline-gtr-single-turbo-vs-twin-turbo

1 hour ago, Dirty3092 said:

HKS stage 2 cams ? Or is there another name for them.  The reason we didn't throw injectors in it is because I didn't want to spend the 3500 on doing the fuel system all at once. Now where doing 28650-5s with billet wheels ported factory manifolds since everything else is known to crack and the new cast Tomei dumps. The hks exhaust im running now has been fully gutted the silencer has been removed and the can has been gutted and straight piped. I don't know how it is in Australia but everything for the GTRs is a arm and a leg. Second hand parts doesn't really exist. So after all the turbo stuff is done we will retune the car and I'll have to deal with low boost untill it goes back for full fuel upgrade and Maxx Ecu. Then wait some time and upgrade the oil pump oil cooler Greddy intake manifold and HKS stage 2 cams with head studs and a gasket. When I started out with this car I wasn't expecting to spend 15k to make the same amount of power as my 5 series lol 

There are 2 different types of HKS step 2 cams, post the lift and duration not stage or step. Both require new valve springs, recesses in the pistons and head clearance around the cams and that's an engine rebuild job.

What were they going to do for this $3500 fuel system upgrade? sounds like someone is ripping you a new one. A walbro 460 fuel pump, some 1000cc - 1600cc injectors and replace the old rubber fuel hose, job done.

Oil pump is an engine out job, the sump needs to be removed and the only way to get to all the bolts on the sump is to remove the gearbox.

As kiwi said get rid of the twins and put a Borg Warner EFR 8374 on there instead.

  • Like 1
  • 4 weeks later...

How was your Apexi tuned?  Using the hand controller or loading custom tables?

I have seen 3 R32 GTRs tuned at the same 18psi, with yours being the 4th, all locally in Texas.  And man the results are all over the place...

I got a good chuckle out of that!

By pump gas we meant a car was running on petrol from a typical petrol station without fuel additive or adding higher octane gasoline.  Since many dyno facilities have much higher octane gasoline ready on site to boost / inflate dyno numbers, typically stored in large jerrycans.  So his petrol came from a "pump" station, as opposed to this:

17203085_962896357180634_980249907169029

And octane number 93 was just referring to the slightly better "pump gas" we can get here, because in some areas 91 is the highest octane available, most notably California.

Going back to my previous response, I think OP's tune was very likely done on Apexi's hand held controller due to the limited support we get here.  Even so, I did encounter another R32 running on upgraded GTX Garrett twins with Bosch 1000cc and Link ECU only made 350awhp on 18psi, or 260awkw on 1.24bar.

Edited by TXSquirrel
repost picture

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I’m only posting this cause I thought I had seen a bad review on these somewhere before. Any feedback? Would you guys recommend that if I do buy these I send em to RC to have em checked before installing. Or any other suggestions?   https://www.ebay.com/itm/114009965865?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=JDl-15yLQ8C&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=QTzlFXB1S-S&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
    • They see me rollin' they hatin'....... Took me most of the day to make the necessary mods to the mounts to make them fit the car.  Fortunately I was able to just use the mounts that came with the rotisserie. The rear ones are really secure, the front I feel i might reinforce a bit more as it doesn't seem like enough attachment to the vehicle. I'm sure it's fine but better to be safe than (extremely...) sorry.  I drilled and tapped thread into additional M12 holes to each car mount where it attaches to the rotisserie as an extra fail-safe. Without them the side to side movement is just restricted by the allen head pinch bolts, nothing actually goes though the beam. Does now! I still need to adjust the rotisserie to get the car centred in terms of centre of gravity. If it's too high or too low relative to the rotational centre line of the car, it will be like a turtle and roll onto its back or as it currently sits, I dont think I'd be able to rotate it as it sits as it needs to lift the whole car up as it rotates. Ain't happening... I'm going to be nervous as hell the first time I go to spin it on its side...    
    • Oh yes done this when the window started flopping around.  Turns out the guides that run along the rail chanel had crumbed way. Took off the door card and pulled out the window mech, then the window, which you have to pull out through the top. As said unbolt the guide rail and don't spend 30 minutes getting frustrated trying to find a way to slide it out upwards cause that don't frigging work. Drop it down and out through the door hole. All I did to repair it was slice some 10mm clear plastic tube, vertically, then screw it to the guide rail both sides. This tubing rolls inward on both sides and leaves a gap wide enough to hold the window. To finish all I did was lube the plastic tube with olive oil and Bob's your uncle . . . well if he has the operation he can be your Aunt ! !  10 bucks in plastic tube and another 5 minute job done again . . . . YEH BULLSH#T ! My love for Skylines knows no bounds !
    • So was there a solution to this problem? I’m having this issue now. 
    • not expensive, just irreplaceable if you don't go sub 60 at wakie in that thing people will start talking
×
×
  • Create New...