R33 Clutch master replacement tomorrow, pls help

[stubbzy]

R33 Clutch master replacement tomorrow, pls help

Hey guys!

I'm not sure if this is the correct place to post but i need help.

See the thing is i need a clutch master cylinder and install tomorrow D: if anyone is willing to help it would be greatly appreciated! i'm don't know who to ask or where to go for advice. obviously i'm willing to pay for labor and parts.

 

The car is a r33 s1 if that helps and i'm located in Werrington, Sydney

[Duncan]

Are you certain it's the master? slave is a more common reason for no clutch, or even a leak of some sort in the line.

Just Jap may have clutch master in stock and is open sat mornings, I'm not sure who else would have stock AND be open on the weekend. Ring first, it's a long way to go and find they don't have it. A lot of the guys are at Targa Tasmania today but I'm pretty sure the shop will be open.

In the meantime if you need to move the car you can (assuming the battery is healthy):

1. Put the car in gear, and then start it. It will move forward on the starter but should start running.

2. You can then drive in first gear with no issues. If you need to stop use the brake until the car stops and the engine stalls (then goto 1)

3. If necessary you can also change both up and down gears without the clutch.  To change up a gear drive up to medium revs, and as you take your foot off the throttle (which unloads the gearbox) pull the shifter to neutral at the same time. That's the easy bit. Then when the revs are about right for the gear you are after pull the shifter smoothly but firmly to the next gear. as a rule of thumb it will be somewhere between 2/3 and 1/2 the revs of the gear before.  

4. Changing down without the clutch is similar but maybe unnecessary to get home. Lift the throttle and shift to N at the same time, then blip the throttle. When the revs are right (higher) for the next gear down the shifter will go in.  If you get either 3 or 4 wrong you hear a horrible grinding sound but it's not as bad for the gearbox as it sounds.

Changing the master means removing 2x 12mm head bolts + the clutch line. You should use a 10mm "flare nut spanner" for the clutch line rather than a regular open end spanner because it can round it off.  There is also a pin you have to remove that holds the clutch master's rod to the pedal under the dash. Also give the clutch line a good soaking in wd40 beforehand.