Jump to content
SAU Community

Lack of Power/Lack of Boost - RB26


Recommended Posts

Yes 6262 is the cheapest single kit on there, then need more fab work to connect to cooler and dump/front pipe. Though the 3.6k price is not a BB turbo. 

How much power will it make? 

Much cheaper to put new wheels on both I would say. 

Make some calls tomorrow. 

Edited by ActionDan
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Found main issue, failed turbo.

Thanks for the suggestions.


Even low km parts can fail. Just be sure that you fix the root problem (if there was one outside of the turbo itself)
Link to comment
Share on other sites

He can do 64mm billet wheel but that's too big, I don't want more lag.

I'm having a chat with him about other ideas, some sort of hypergesr hybrid, but we'll see what he comes up with as I already grabbed some more -9s that came up as you don't see them anywhere near as often as 7s or 5s.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Already bought some more -9s, much cheaper and faster to just swap them in rather than have to buy new manifold and fab new intake and dump pipe (needs to go to different shop) and that's just for IWG option, which everyone here will jump up and down about it definitely needing a full TS setup the whole way through. 

Edited by ActionDan
Link to comment
Share on other sites

You do realize that the turbines and the "infamous twin turbo pipe" are the likely cause of the twins failing? 

So throwing a billet wheel in thats gunna require being spun harder is only gunna put you back in the same scenario and faster. Poor man pays twice. Cheap out and pay for another set of turbos in another 5000km ?

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Other than stealthiness there's really no reason to buy more twins nowadays. If you buy two new twins, you could buy a single + manifold/fab to fit that for the same money.

Obviously cheaper if you replace it by buying one single, but then again the real savings are in known good second hand turbos ;)

Still curious how a turbo can fail causing only a 9kw loss though? Maybe just detune the thing to 300kw and drive it around for awhile.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

9 minutes ago, Mick_o said:

You do realize that the turbines and the "infamous twin turbo pipe" are the likely cause of the twins failing? 

So throwing a billet wheel in thats gunna require being spun harder is only gunna put you back in the same scenario and faster. Poor man pays twice. Cheap out and pay for another set of turbos in another 5000km ?

 

Able to diagnose a turbo failure without seeing it/the car/knowing the rest of the setup etc? 

Where were you when I was chasing the issues that lead me to pulling it down and finding the problem. I could have used your magical diagnostic powers lol ;D

The question about the billet wheel was just that, a question, I've heard/read various shit about them so asked the question as an option. If there was an identical shweel size that was lighter and would spool faster for a few bucks more, sure I'd look at it. Can't learn about the pros and cons without having a discussion though, I think some of the people on here forget this is a forum sometimes. 

2 minutes ago, Kinkstaah said:

Other than stealthiness there's really no reason to buy more twins nowadays. If you buy two new twins, you could buy a single + manifold/fab to fit that for the same money.

Obviously cheaper if you replace it by buying one single, but then again the real savings are in known good second hand turbos ;)

Still curious how a turbo can fail causing only a 9kw loss though? Maybe just detune the thing to 300kw and drive it around for awhile.

Stealthiness/defect issue/RWC when selling later/cost are all factors.I am not buying new units, I found some mint ones for less than the price of 1 new one. New ones are 2400 for a pair as it is, the cheapest single kit is, what, 4k new? For a journal bearing 6262 that then needs more fab work and aooarently has shit response anyway.

Second hand manifold and single always an option, but still not as cheap as the pair of -9s I grabbed which will get me the result I wanted. To be honest, I'm tired of throwing heaps of money at it so a cheaper/faster option was desirable for me. Nobody else has to like it, it's not their car :)

Not detuning to 300kw either, crazy talk. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Maybe SAUNSW could see howany members would do a motorkhana day if Schofield's is still available for a reasonable price...
    • Skip the concrete, we just need to smooth a field. Mark knows how to drive a grader Duncan   I reckon 100x100 flat area for skid pan style, and then some sort tracks for rally... Duncan's already got a rally car on the premises to...
    • Well, yeah, the RB26 is definitely that far off the mark. From a pure technology point of view it is closer to the engines of the 60s than it is to the engines of the last 10 years. There is absolutely nothing special about an RB26 that wasn't present in engines going all the way back to the 60s, except probably the four valve head. The bottom end is just bog standard Japanese stuff. The head is nothing special. Celicas in the 70s were the same thing, in 4cyl 2 valve form. The ITBs are nothing special when you consider that the same Celicas had twin Solexes on them, and so had throttle plates in the exact same place. There's no variable valve timing, no variable inlet manifold, which even other RBs had either before the 26 came out or shortly afterward. The ECU is pretty rude and crude. The only things it has going for it are that the physical structure was pretty bloody tough for a mass produced engine, the twin-turbos and ITBs made for a bit of uniqueness against the competition (and even Toyota were ahead on the twin turbs thing, weren't they?) and the electronic controls and measuring devices (ie, AFMs, CAS, etc) were good enough to make it run well. Oh, and it sounds better than almost anything else, ever. The VR38 is absolutely halfway between the RB generation and the current generation, so it definitely has a massive increase in the sophistication of the electronics, allowing for a lot more dynamic optimisation of mapping. Then there's things like metal treatments and other coatings on things, adoption of variable cam stuff, and a bunch of other little improvements that mean it has to be a better thing than the RB26. But I otherwise agree with you that it is approximately the same thing as a 26. But, skip forward another 10 years from that engine and then the things that I mentioned in previous post come out to play. High compression, massively sophisticated computers, direct injection, clever measuring sensors, etc etc. They are the real difference between trying to make big power with a 26 and trying to make big power with a S/B50/54 (or whatever the preferred BMW engine of the week is).
    • Is the RB26 actually that far off the mark? Honestly from where I'm sitting a VR38DETT is not actually that much more advanced than the RB26. Yes, there is a scavenge pump on the VR38, it's smarter in a number of ways but it's not actually jumping out to me as alien technology. Something like a B58 or V35A-FTS on the other hand has so many surprising little design features that add up to be something that just isn't comparable. 
×
×
  • Create New...