Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

8 hours ago, Kraaken.r32 said:

Hi guys, been reading up on this as I have now bought some of these echo coil packs. I want to do this swap in mt rb20. Do I bypass the ignitor? If so how can this be done? Also is the wiring for the coils the same as rb25? 

Yes you have to bypass the igniter. It’s done by bypassing it 

Just now, Ben C34 said:

Yes you have to bypass the igniter. It’s done by bypassing it 

ok great, is it a direct wire to wire? i cant find any info on that, do you normally just splice togther? if you know which wires need spliced would be great info for the thread

Hi Kraken,

I just completed this not to long ago on my RB20, what I did was identify what wire from the ECU fired what cylinder and then soldered that wire up to the corresponding plug on the loom. Another way to do this is outlined above by just pairing the numbers on the bottom of the ignition coil. But I recall there was an extra wire I had to do something with, I'm pretty sure it was a ground wire which I just paired up with the other ground wire that goes onto the coil pack holder..

Below is the colour combination of the wires for my stock ECU which may be relevant but double check yours.. 

54236697_2526481310712901_1661104337172037632_n.jpg.32e6bcde421a9886c06f9405e457e3ac.jpg

11 hours ago, Dylannn said:

Hi Kraken,

I just completed this not to long ago on my RB20, what I did was identify what wire from the ECU fired what cylinder and then soldered that wire up to the corresponding plug on the loom. Another way to do this is outlined above by just pairing the numbers on the bottom of the ignition coil. But I recall there was an extra wire I had to do something with, I'm pretty sure it was a ground wire which I just paired up with the other ground wire that goes onto the coil pack holder..

Below is the colour combination of the wires for my stock ECU which may be relevant but double check yours.. 

54236697_2526481310712901_1661104337172037632_n.jpg.32e6bcde421a9886c06f9405e457e3ac.jpg

Thank you very much that makes sense! Thank for the pinout will help with future guys doing the swap as well as my self! 

 

14 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

The wire that goes to the igniter for coil 1, now needs to go straight to coil 1.  I think you can work the rest of the pattern out.

Yes great answered many questions with that. 

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 year later...
  • 1 year later...
  • 1 month later...
On 10/10/2021 at 6:04 AM, ganthercage said:

It is hard to beat RockAuto for these, at least for quality coils -- Denso, NGK, AC Delco/Delphi. Avoid junk. Denso is a major supplier to Toyota, and Toyota had a lot to do with getting the company off the ground and is still a big minority owner.

If DENSO makes the part then it's the OEM Toyota part - so buying it from a Toyota dealer is just a DENSO part in a Toyota box with mark up. 

 

Any reason people are not running R35 Coils? They are generally considered best on the market and only cost $60/ea. 

Yaris DENSO 6731306 - $52/ea

R35 Hitachi IGC0079 - $61/ea

 

PRP has a breakdown of the two coils in comparison. 

 

https://platinumracingproducts.com/pages/r35-coil-vs-yaris-coil-debate

 

 

On 12/1/2021 at 2:57 PM, GTSBoy said:

People are using R35 coils. No-one in their right mind would choose Yaris/Corolla type coils. This thread is a hangover.

If we're going to revive a thread like this we should discuss the recent drama around this article: https://www.50ignite.com/blog/technical-blog/article-3-back-to-back-testing-of-370z-coils-re-co

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Some sense has prevailed! What kind of idiot spends money on intake, heads, and cams for a N/A motor in 2025? Lol. What maroons. Source:I am King Maroon.
    • So, cams are not getting installed......yet  Had a good chat with MX5 Mania about intakes, they recommend not to get ITB's, they recommend a plenum style for the NC So, one of these puppies is being ordered, with a larger TB to suit, when it arrives from the US the car will go in for the cams and intake I'm also getting a fancy rear box bit for the air filter box which will suit the new TB size
    • Clamp meter is pointless. Unless you're trying to keep average current under a set value for some weird reason (maybe you undersized your wiring?), then you'll get no useful info. What you're really trying to target is the flow of fuel coming back to the tank. You want some, but not a lot. You also want to make sure fuel pressure remains stable.   So, fuel pressure gauge, and fuel flow gauge. Set it up from that.
    • Aside from the fact it is likely fuel related if it is black, the symptoms otherwise sound like worn valve stem seals. Oil gets past the worn seals when the engine is off and burns when the engine starts. If it happens on deceleration while driving (puffs of white smoke) that is another valve stem seal symptom because oil gets sucked form the head into the combustion chamber under vacuum with the throttle closed. They can be replaced in the car if you have some way to keep the valves closed while working (eg compressed air into cylinders) but is much easier with head off.
    • Alright, fair enough. Expected as much. Possibly, yes. However the kit is apparently not including every single hose and it is out of stock too.
×
×
  • Create New...