Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Power FC problems (sr20)

Hello guys, I am new to this forum. I am just your average 21 year old dude who bought a Nissan 200sx S13 with a SR20DET and I did some modifications. I assume this is gonna be a long post, but please bear with me. :(

So I started my car after 1.5 years and during those months I bought several parts. (Apexi Power FC Djetro, S15 turbo, 555cc nismo injectors and different things but that wont matter)

Anyway, 2 days ago I started her up and it went great, except for getting the car to idle. It just WON'T idle at all. I found out that my injectors had the wrong latency. I did 66% and 0.72ms and it should've been 66% and 0.10ms? So I changed that and after a few resets and start ups it went great.

First 10 minutes idle, amazing. 800-900rpm, car not shaking. Then I had to turn on the A/C which I dont have. I thought using the climate control and do some cold air would do the trick. Well I guess not. Car was doing weird things. 480rpm-900rpm over and over, here is a video; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GZXVeiSi1y0

I don't know what to do. :(  My map sensor and IAT are working fine. The car was idling fine but I had to complete te self-learning process. My defroster doesn't work either because some cables are missing. (I found some cables so I am gonna try it out tomorrow, it might work)

Other things that you guys might find interesting; My O2 sensor stays at 0.0v, even at idle. I found out today that there is a fat O2 sensor in the elbow, and the redtop ECU uses a Skinny O2. (I had a black top ecu, so this is why there is a fat o2 in there. Black top = fat o2 || redtop = skinny o2) Can it be because of this? How much influence does the O2 sensor have when it comes to the self-learning process?

Also, the car starts with boost control on. And I don't even have a boost controller. (I turned it off) 

My mod list:
555cc nismo
gt28 turbo
Apexi Power FC D-jetro
Apexi powerfilter
aftermarket IC
HKS wastegate
Mishimoto rad
AEM Wideband (haven't hooked it up yet, I don't know much about this thing. But it was necessarry for tuners?)

Edited by Shirohige
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/470267-power-fc-problems-sr20/
Share on other sites

My thoughts are that it shouldn't matter if you don't have the stuff hooked up that would cause idle load to change.  Just get the ECU to learn through it doing nothing, and it comes out the other side not GAF about those things.

I concur on the O2 sensor & feedback being vital.  Once you get past cold start you need it working, or you need it tuned to ignore it properly.

6 hours ago, admS15 said:

Is the 02 feedback on? Same area where you turned boost control off. Can't you just do the idle learn procedure and not bother turning ac or demister on?

I can try. Yes, the feedback was on. All 3 or 4 times te feedback has been on.

3 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

My thoughts are that it shouldn't matter if you don't have the stuff hooked up that would cause idle load to change.  Just get the ECU to learn through it doing nothing, and it comes out the other side not GAF about those things.

I concur on the O2 sensor & feedback being vital.  Once you get past cold start you need it working, or you need it tuned to ignore it properly.

Hmmm, ill try what admS15 said. If it won't work i'll look for another o2 sensor.

Yesterday the car had a really strong gasoline smell. I could even smell it in my exhaust pipe.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Any difference in induction noise?
    • If I got a dollar for every flipped commuter missile I've driven past I'd have two dollars   Some people get into wild adventures on the road and I doubt it's gender or ethnicity specific. I'm just glad I don't usually drive during peak times.
    • Just got the car back and gave it a good run back home Power wise, whilst it only made a extra 5 killerwasps up top at 7200 rpm, it made more power everywhere from 2500 rpm and kept pulling much harder all the way, to the point of me relearning when to shift so I don't hit the 7200 limiter, with the old intake it seemed to take alot more time to rev out, and, throttle response is also much improved  As I didn't want to remove the bumper every time I serviced the air filter (basically every aftermarket and fabricated CAI has the filter behind the bumper) it currently has a hektic exposed pod in the engine bay sucking in hot air, this will be rectified shortly after some some of my CAD (cardboard assisted design) for a alloy heat shield feed by the OEM intake tube behind the bumper, this will cop some wrinkle black paint, as well as the intake pipe for that totally OEM look... The only fly in the ointment was that the OEM "strut" brace doesn't fit over the rear runner of the new intake with the 2.5 engine is in the engine bay, as the 2.5 raises the engine up by 20mm, it's not a war stopper, and I didn't notice any difference without it in some twisties, but....... MX5 Mania is bringing in some GWR "fancy pants" braces that apparently do fit, if it bolts up I'll grab it, it is also stiffer than the OEM one, which is a bonus All in all I'm happy with the outcome      Fancy pants "strut" brace that gives the required clearance      This is where the clearance issue was, the GWR extends out past this
    • Well, I'm back from the dyno today. Some things do partially make sense. The pod filter/airbox delete picked up between 6-10rwkw on 98 - because heat soak does kind of affect things and there was playing with tune/timing/AFR. Oddly enough, the car was running much leaner than before. So lean it was audibly pinging on the dyno which I got video of:   70de0dd5-2099-4a71-8b10-6fc833fb9d59.mp4   We're talking going from ~12.7 in the past to the first run being at like ~14.0. It is now tuned to ~12.5 on the Dyno, which correlates to about ~12.1 on my wideband in the car. These matched last time, which is very odd. The dyno plots only show the dyno's reported AFR - should be last time, yet now it no longer agrees and was way leaner. Nobody has an explanation for how a pod can make the car run notably leaner, yet not really give any more power when you add fuel in. A few different types of intake design were tested:   94c22c34-7991-4902-af85-314b5f5bf352.mp4   There was no difference other than IAT with the pod sticking out of the bay. The pod sticking out of the bay (but connected) is actually still warmer than what I usually see on the road. Removing the pod entirely lost about ~2kw. But to be fair, all of the runs could be argued to vary by that amount when temperatures climb etc etc. It's safe to say that the filter isn't causing any restrictions of any note that can be reasonably altered in any way. This is in line with what I'd expect given the Engine Masters testing. 323KW on 98 and ~335KW on E85 is actually a pretty solid result, up about ~45kw from 99% of LS1 cammed combos, with generally much larger cams/exhaust etc as well. It is after all up 42KW (98) and 54KW (E85) from before. +10KW from a pod and removing the box is cheap as chips compared to what the head work cost per kw No, I did not get to drop the exhaust and test. When it comes to exhaust... it all just seems to change frequencies and cost or gain 2hp here or there. I don't realistically think I'll drop this to test it - because there's not much else I can really do about it/route it any other way/make it bigger/just bought mufflers. Engine masters beat the hell out of headers with a hammer to deliberately kink them and didn't lose power at all, I sincerely doubt that going larger primaries would help. If it were even possible for clearance/conversion reasons... which it's not... I may throw the E85 in there at some point and do a drag run to see what MPH it traps for science. It isn't lost on me that ~320kw Skylines do trap about the same MPH that ~370kw F-Body/Corvettes do in the USA for the same  or similar weight. (122-125mph). Of course, if I go there and trap 104mph or something then I'll just 'accidentally' have an accident on the way home from the drag strip and buy a M4.
×
×
  • Create New...