Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

G'day team.

Before anyone goes off, YES, I have done a search. No, I didn't get the answers I was looking for.

In a nutshell: whats the biggest brakes people have managed to fit behind 17" rims on a BNR32?

I've got some beautiful genuine RAYS LM-GT4's for my GTR in 17"...but I don't think I'll be able to get enough disc & caliper behind them to pull it up once it's back from it's *ahem* small heart transplant.

So: I will be using the car for 'spirited' driving occasionally, and when it sees track days, I need it to pull up reliably time and time again, and from higher speeds than the standard Brembos can handle(they'll be getting sold off). I'm not going bigger than 18" for aesthetic and practical reasons, but I'm happy to keep 17" IF I can fit good enough stoppers. Clearance is the thang!

R32 GTR peeps. Come at me. Tell me what worked. What didn't. Issues. Results. Photos?

 

13 hours ago, LTSJayce said:

Before anyone goes off, YES, I have done a search. No, I didn't get the answers I was looking for.

In a nutshell: whats the biggest brakes people have managed to fit behind 17" rims on a BNR32?

I think thread answers your question https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/439623-brake-clearance-thread/#comment-7208820

  • Like 1

Was going to say, didn't someone fit 375mm brakes to a 17?

Depends largely on rim. LMGT4 and TE37 are good for clearance. How good though? Most people get wheels to fit brakes, not the other way around.

2 hours ago, Kinkstaah said:

Was going to say, didn't someone fit 375mm brakes to a 17?

Depends largely on rim. LMGT4 and TE37 are good for clearance. How good though? Most people get wheels to fit brakes, not the other way around.

 

36 minutes ago, niZmO_Man said:

332mm seems to be a "popular" size so I'd assume that's the largest you can go under 17" wheels.

 

Yes, the other thread linked above has someone who swears that he fit 375mm rotors inside the 17's that had 390mm bore diameter.  I have a hard time believing that there is any clearance at all between the calipers and the wheel bores, and I have a hard time believing that the calipers actually even have enough room to have material to hold the two halves together in the first place.  But they were AP Racing calipers or something equally exotic, not the bulky arse Sumitomos that we start with.

I have R33 Sumitomos on R33 rotors inside Enkei RPF1 17s.  There is just enough room to slide your fingers between the caliper and the wheel bore.  Therefore there is bugger all possibility of going much bigger than the 324mm sort of size change that people do with these Sumitomos inside a wheel like mine.  The Brembos that usually sit on the 324mm rotors (and other similar Brembos, like the Evo ones that people use a lot these days) must be more space efficient (radially) because they do seem to go onto 330-340mm rotors well enough.  And of course that still leaves the question of the wheel bore diameter as another variable.

In short, the caliper design and the wheel bore both matter.

Good feedback, team!
I agree most get the brakes first then fit the wheels around them, but because mines a V Spec II, and 17" has been the nominal size AND I've got this sweet set of RAYS/Volks (with history to them), I wanted to stay 17.
However, the car will need to harness a LOT more power and speed, so if I need more stopping power than I can fit under these rims, they'll be up for sale. O also don't want to 'over tyre OR over brake' the set up. It is possible to run silly size wheels that stuff up the handling and ride quality and it is also possible to have brakes too big that overwhelm the mechanical grip available, so it's a balancing act!

remember it's not all just the caliper and rotor size..

Brake pads, rotor material/cooling design and brake fluid all adds to it.

No point getting a set of Alcons with eBay rotors and running pads like QFM A1RM and expect them to stop on the track.

I was going to say what happened to the old good rotors pads and fluid? Surely even at what 1500kg the brembos on it with really good stuff to combine with it will do the job every now and then on the track and definitely on the street

That definitely works, I have stock sumitomos on my 33 gtst with 324mm gtr front rotors, 40 mm ducting, intima brake pads and penrite 10 tenths fluid. My lap times at Sandown which is heavy on brakes have been pretty good. Only issue is I kill the pads within 2-3 track days. Some V8 supercar spec alcons would be awesome to combat that but in my case they would be worth more than my car.
  • Like 1
On 5/10/2017 at 2:34 AM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

If it's non vspec just get R33 or R34 or Z33 brakes and fit them.

Are the Z33 Brembos a for sure fit on the R32 GTR?  Other than drilling the Holes to 14mm is there anything else?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If you ask just me you'll get 3 different answers.
    • Do not ever trust ChatGPT with anything math related. They can't do math. They have no idea what it is. With enough data we can fit a decent equation in Excel, or if the available fits in Excel aren't good enough, a Matlab clone.
    • You could check/calibrate that with a thermometer, we have long glass thermometers at work which go from -10 to +150°c, they are pretty cheap too I believe,  as monkey fisted soldiers tend to break them, and getting new ones don't seem to send red flags to the people that hold the purse strings Edit: after a google they apparently cost about $80, but, digital ones seem to be much cheaper at around $40
    • I should have prefaced all of this with "I'd really like to not pull anything out of the car for this" 
    • Me, I would happly spend some more coin on better tyres for my street car  Will they work, yes, of course, but why substitute some dry grip/braking distance, and wet weather grip/braking distance on what is really old tech to save some coin on your "precious" street car In the end it might not be you that farks up, it's the thousands of other idiots on the street that you need to worry about  For a street car that gets some "fun time", I have found that a quality tyre that can handle dry, wet, cold (Canberra gets pretty cold) and hot conditions, which may costs a little more, is great insurance  From my experience with them (driving around Goulburn in the winter) the RE003's are pretty poor in cold and/or wet conditions on the street If RS4's didn't hate gripping in the cold I would be running them always on the street,  great in the dry, OK in the wet, but, they do hate the cold, with a passion, I run PS5's year round now, basically, I've found the PS5 to be a great year round street tyre for all conditions, they last well, and are mid range pricing wise TL;DR. Tyre choice is probably like what brand and grade oil you should use, ask 10 people, and get 10 different answers... LOL
×
×
  • Create New...