Tim's 1992 N14 SSS Build

[PranK]

2 hours ago, TimmyMA70 said:

I have access to a more industrial type of bead blasting cabinet. The media in it is glass base. It's excellent as it doesn't blast too deep and is good for finer objects.

 

Nice. Its done a great job!

2 hours ago, TimmyMA70 said:

I really like the GTIR bonnets, they are unique and are a 90's icon. Although unfortunately I believe they belong on one car, a GTIR. 

1

You're not one of these crazys who thinks GTR badges are for GTRs only are you?!?

 

[TimmyMA70]

10 hours ago, PranK said:

Nice. Its done a great job!

You're not one of these crazys who thinks GTR badges are for GTRs only are you?!?

 

Ahh yes and no. A GTR badge is a much more subtle change VS a very unique bonnet. I also think that the gtir bonnet is the most overdone mod to an Aus N14. Nearly any N14 with P plates on it has the IR bonnet. Plus I'm anal as hell, and those vents are only going to let water drip down onto the rocker cover and plug leads (GTIR has a cover which goes over the top of the leads)

[intercpt]

You are dead on about the Gtir bonnet. 

Had a Gtir and even with the cover it was basically useless.

When it rained, it constantly had water running into the lead recess and caused issues!

Would put out cylinder 1 plug and it would be covered in old rusty water.

WD40 x 10000 

[TimmyMA70]

19 hours ago, intercpt said:

You are dead on about the Gtir bonnet. 

Had a Gtir and even with the cover it was basically useless.

When it rained, it constantly had water running into the lead recess and caused issues!

Would put out cylinder 1 plug and it would be covered in old rusty water.

WD40 x 10000 

 

Hahaha, my suspicions verified. I don't think I could handle it.

You get it though.

[TimmyMA70]

Alright guys:

Calipers are officially rebuilt. Extremely happy with them!

So previously rear brakes upgrade on an N14 was limited to GTIR rear calipers OR GTIR calipers with A32 Maxima rear caliper carriers (brackets) to space the caliper out to fit a 278mm rear A32 Maxima rotor in there. The issue with this is GTIR use a 33mm hat height rotor and A32 use a 45mm hat height. So you would have to put a 22mm spacer in between the hub and the rotor.

I have done some searching and discovered that the 2002 - 2005 Ford Focus ST170 rear rotors are 280mm, 33mm hat height. The only things required to make them fit is change the PCD from 4x108 to 4x100 and machine out the centerbore from 64mm to 68mm. Basic machining. The rotor thickness is also 10.3mm VS 9mm Worst case scenario the rotor may need a skim to get them to fit.

Machining should happen this week, hopefully do a fit up next weekend.

[TimmyMA70]

Another small update guys.

This is the final piece of the brake puzzle.

All cleaned and rebuilt. 15/16" N15 SSS brake booster and brake master cylinder.

[TimmyMA70]

Hey guys, so this will be a huge update, pretty much what I've been up to over the last 12 months.

[TimmyMA70]

So now I've converted all my photos over to Imgur, I can actually do some decent updates.

I've had my driveshafts overhauled, completely OEM, new grease and new boots, zero wear in the joints themselves!

I bought myself a P11 SR20VE too, from a Pulsar Group of Australia member. It'll get a freshen up before it goes in.

My N16 hubs, pressed apart.

Redrilled to 4x100

Gave the rear of the hubs a hit with some VHT Black high temp paint.

Front brakes done:
A32 Maxima Calipers, A32 Maxima 280mm rotors redrilled to 4x100, N16 Hubs redrilled to 4x100

I went to bolt the rear brakes up and the caliper ended up needing spacing to align the caliper bracket to the center of the rotor:

Brakes on, time for a wheel test fit:

[TimmyMA70]

The red rocket is off the hoist! ... Well just for a few happy snaps anyway. I'm still waiting on some braided brake lines to finish off the brakes.

Please excuse the inch of dust on the body and the lack of shine to the paint and all the other body defects it has at the moment!

I bought a set of Kumho V720 tyres. I used to run the KU36's on my old N15, these are a revised version of those. I'm keen to see how they perform.

[TimmyMA70]

So, wheel alignment time:

This was all done by me with the help of a very talented mate.

As you can see, castor isn't ideal, so time for some castor adjusting bushes.

 

This is a 32V VZR Gearbox I picked up to do my manual conversion

Pretty grubby hey...

Alot cleaner now

 

Auto is out!! Finally!!

Freshly machined PAR 4.1kg flywheel fitted up and new Xtreme HD Organic Clutch

I did the hydro conversion while I was going.

Fitted a turbine oil impegnated sintered bronze bush to the GTiR clutch pedal, for a buttery smooth feel.

[TimmyMA70]

Finally on the road and driving as a manual!!

16x7 RPF1's arrived, had to test fit them

With tyres now:

I went with 205/45R16 Yokohama Advan V701's

[TimmyMA70]

Bought some Protech 4-1's for the VE build, these are used from another member, stepped 4-1's to give some decent torque down low, although 4-1's to keep the VE screaming up top. That is a 3" V band...

Stripped the VE down ready for some love

[TimmyMA70]

Made an airbox up since the battery was going in the boot anyway I hate the stock Pulsar filter setup. Such a restrictive unit.

Battery in the boot:

[TimmyMA70]

Then I went back to the VE head, tried my hand at a bit of light porting, a mate of mine is giving me a hand, this porting is just the cleanup stage:

Intake Before:

After:

Exhaust Before:

After:

Bought myself a burette to make sure I wasn't getting too carried away on one port more than the other.

The porting work hasn't finished just yet. Still doing bits and pieces on it from time to time. Next up - Track Prep

Edited June 11, 2018 by TimmyMA70

[TimmyMA70]

Then the carpet was stripped out, to fit the brackets, rails and seat out.

Then...

Dry ice time, my wife gave me a hand removing all the sound deadening. She thought it was great fun.

In total 30kg's of sound deadening was removed, including the firewall mat.

A coat of paint now, to protect that exposed primer

Also, reinstalled 3kg's worth of Dynaliner to try and help with heat coming through the floor

Harness bar test fit while the seats are out

[TimmyMA70]

Gave the little N14 a much needed detail and it came up okay I think, had to get a few photo's:

As it sits now with full fluids the N14 weighs in at 1020kg which means it was a 120kg weight reduction

[TimmyMA70]

Hey guys, another update.

I finished painting the primed areas in the boot area where the sound deadening was removed, also finished clipping the battery cable to the floor pan, keep everything as neat as possible.

I finished cc'ing my intake ports yesterday:

#1 - 169.1cc

#2 - 169.1cc

#3 - 169.2cc

#4 169.2 cc

Now they're really close, I can finish the ports off

[TimmyMA70]

Alright this is the last post and this thread is completely updated

So after going over everything before this fast approaching track day, I noticed a little green drip from the water pump tell tale hole. So decided to err on the side of caution and throw a new pump at it before the track day. Checked all the coolant hoses, disconnected all the coolant lines from the intake manifold and looped them, also disconnected and looped the lines from the throttle body.

I had to release all 4 engine mounts to be able to have enough clearance between the chassis rail and the water pump, which meant removing the airbox. Since I made it I have always wanted to paint it satin black, so prepped it up and gave it a coat of paint.

Then I finished my seat brackets to mount the pair of Sparco Pro 2000's which I am running.

That's all from me for now

Thanks for reading.

[Leroy Peterson]

Great stuff

[junkie]

Love quality work like this, its actually not that common. Whenever i check out modified cars i don't look at the mods but at the quality of the work, and 9/10 times its average at best