Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Replace 460LPH Walbro with?

RB26, maxed out the 460LPH Walbro at around 500rwhp on e85. They are rated to about 600hp (assuming flywheel so seems about right). 

Want something in tank and looked at this: http://walbrofuelpumps.com/walbro-485lph-fuel-pump-high-pressure-tia485-2-f90000274-universal-e85-ethanol-ti-automotive.html

Given the car has -9s and is almost done as far as turbos go, I only need enough to stop it leaning out and run a touch more boost. 

Does that pump really support another 150hp? Are there better in tank options available? 

Given I already have it in there, wiring would be direct swap over it looks like. 

Yes I have the pump direct fed from battery (with relay triggered by standard fuel pump wiring).  

Thanks all :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/470529-replace-460lph-walbro-with/
Share on other sites

Looking at other threads on here, people saying these can support 450rwkw? 

Has been suggested that I remove this pressure valve and bump base fuel pressure to 3.5. Any issues with that? 

Would be great to not have to get into the tank again though..

20151205_152506.jpg

Good to know. Seems others are making up to 450rwkw with these pumps and I found reference on here to that inline valve causing tuning issues for someone else before. 

Will start by removing that, might be a cheap fix yet :)

Haven't removed to inspect yet. 

Did the same setup in the Silvia without issue. 

Have run direct feed to battery via relay, relay is trigger by standard fuel pump relay trigger. All with suitable gauge wiring. 

I have a 34 with this pump.

You are running into issues on E85 like every other 34 owner I presume. Now, everyone I've seen this issue with has a GTT, but I wouldnt be super suprised if its the same thing at play here.

The fuel filter is your restriction. It always seems to happen at about 350-375kw on E85.

Also, there's two types of the Walbro 460. One has a 70psi internal relief valve, the newer one has 120psi internal relief valve. This means that at certain amounts of boost the earlier one is going to pump back into the tank as opposed to into the rail. When you consider 45psi is base pressure, 70psi gives you 25psi of boost before you start to run into issues.

Change the filter and the pump (if need be, do filter first) and problem will be magically solved.

You can try running without the filter on the dyno to confirm.

genuine Nissan for sure, $45 from Nissan IIRC and I'd assume cheaper from Justjap, Kudos etc...

2 hours ago, ActionDan said:

Fuel filter huh... 

It's new, but just a generic one. It has been about 1000ks on e85 now, I wonder if it's full of gunk?

Best option for replacement? 

 

IMG_4641.JPG

Edited by mr_rbman
pic

I think the solution might be to put 2 filters in parallel.  the problem not necessarily being that the single filter is a bit blocked/dirty, just that the single filter is inherently a restriction when trying to shove that much E85 through it!

If you can make it work with 2x filters in parallel, then it might be worth considering a less bodgy solution which is one of those massive fuel filters that use screw on cartridges like an oil filter.

  • Like 1

Run a second braided fuel line. In theory a single 8mm fuel line will support around 600hp or slightly above that with 98, throw in E85 and your engines demanding 30% more fuel. I run twin Walbro 255 with dual feed to the factory RB26 rail and that should in theory be good for almost 1000hp. (Rail and 8mm return line being the next restrictions).

In saying all that though, I have seen Walbro 460s run over 400kw so a change of filter is your cheapest best option currently.

I'm pretty sure other people are making more power without any of that stuff around. 

I'll remove the damper in the tank, put a fresh filter on (as it's done 1000k's on e85 now so worth changing for safety I hear) and see where that gets us. 

 

 

If you are replacing the filter don't put an OEM one back in, especially with E85. I had an issue with my GTR a couple of weeks ago, the solution was a high flow speedflow filter, fixed my issues 100%.

Damper was removed a while ago from memory. 

Mines a 40 micron -6 fitting speedflow filter, was $100 according to my invoice, my mechanic just got it for me.

I was having a few teething issues when running E85, slight hesitation at around 3800-4000 RPM under high boost, and the occasional knock light coming on. Wasn't happy with it so i took it to a different shop, he took one look at my filter and wen't "that thar is your problem". Changed the filter over and under load i gained 5psi rail pressure, car feels heaps different. Like i was actually shocked how much smoother it was...

Hmm OK, I'm in two minds about the filter as plenty of others seem to make bigger power with the standard filter in place. 

Would have been good to know if just a new standard filter would have solved your issue. 

I don't think it's the case of the filter being clogged so much, as much as what GTSBoy said, the actual filter itself is restrictive and it can't flow that much fuel in it.


I was also using a ryco filter. I now use an Earls filter, but as I've backed down my power goal I now run two filters because the Earls filter I have is 30 micron and apparently 20 is what you want (the ryco one is 20 I read somewhere).

This is likely why the best option is to run them in parallel when chasing that much power. Earls have a 10 micron filter for their big filter, but I found any time I swapped between E85 and 98, in either direction, the filter would near-instantly get clogged with a 10.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Howdy friends, So another weird one today, I was looking into replacing some broken clips holding the front grille for the R32 GTR (part number 01553-03831), and noticed the brackets which are supposed to hold the grille in place were also missing 😑. I do recall seeing this issue many years ago, but didn't fix it at the time. A quick look on eBay and I was able to find the genuine brackets, along with all the screws which suited the headlights (part numbers 26042-08U05,26092-08U05). Happy days!....  Once they arrived however there was an extra nut in the packaging which implied that there should also be a bolt or a stud, and sure enough, after a bit of searching I found this thread from 2013, and @Ants clearly shows a stud should be present. Reading around a bit more, it's possible the headlights on my car are the "povo pack" headlights as mentioned by @funkymonkey in this thread way back in 2008. This could explain why the studs are missing on my set of headlights. Looking at the headlight diagram I wasn't able to see a suitable part number for the stud itself. The headlight did indeed have a recess that looked like it would accept a stud, but interestingly no thread or anything obvious how the stud would be affixed to the headlight, I suspect it may have been glued in, press fit, or melted into the plastic at the factory. Another member may be able to clarify if they happen to have a genuine set of N1 headlamps. The only thing we have to work with within the recess is a keyway which likely is there to prevent the stud from rotating within the recess. In any case, back to 3D printing, I put together a model which acts like a pug with a friction fit inside this recess, making use of the keyway so it doesn't rotate while tightening a bolt. Printing in TPU will allow it to slightly swell making a nice snug fit without cracking the part. I've designed the adaptor it to accept an 20 mm M6 bolt (stainless with a cap head in my case), as opposed to the standard M5 stud and I made use of the standard galvanised split washer that came with the genuine brackets from Nissan. Once the bolt and screws were all in place, giving the bracket a gentle shake gave the classic "shaking the car" feeling, very solid, which gives me confidence this is going to be able to hold on much better than the janky solution which seems to have been here for the past decade or so. Overall I'm really pleased with how this turned out and maybe there are more people out there running these headlights without a centre stud at all! Link to the freely available model on Printables: Click here Regards, Sean  
    • Hey everyone, This is my first post apart of the introduction. I tried searching a bit on the forum but couldn't really get a straight answer. I got the car to my mechanic as I felt it being weak. It seems that it was missing on two cylinders due to the injectors. I had all my injectors clean and the car runs much better. The mechanic also confirmed my suspicions that the cat is clogged and needs to be tackled asap. The cat rattles a bit and the hot exhaust warning frequently lights up when driving after getting the injectors clean. In my introduction I was asked about what modification I might be interested in and mentioned a cat delete. From what I was told, this is not really beneficial on the RB20DE and there are more cons than pros.  Could perhaps anyone give some suggestions on what the best course of action would be since the current cat is toast and needs to be removed/replaced anyway? I can also sometimes smell a strong smell of fuel, but I'm not sure if this is related.
    • Hope the cans went down well at least 
    • 255 can't go wrong with the price.
    • When I was replacing my pump due to being stranded in the wrong state, I went with the Deatschwerks 320lph kit. It is a direct plug in to the stock wires, harness, everything. It comes with a plug... but you can plug the OEM plug directly into this thing. https://justjap.com/products/deatschwerks-dw300-fuel-pump-nissan-s13-silvia-r32-r33-r34-skyline-c34-stagea?currency=AUD Downside: Won't actually flow that much on boost if you want to push it on E85, but it's comparable to the 040/255 etc. Little more actually.
×
×
  • Create New...