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The easiest way is to do a run without the filter. This is how I tested it when I was on the dyno.

Prior to that, I changed injectors, fuel pump, and FPR, so you can do all of that too and then change the filter if you would prefer to burn money ;)
It took a FPR gauge on the dyno to actually determine why it was leaning out, which lead to me dropping the filter.

It seems 34 specific though, I do wonder if it is the same part for the Ryco filter or whether 34's have another restriction in the system somewhere that 33's and 32's don't. Is it the same? I have honestly never looked.

The other option is just make 360kw on -9's which is certainly enough for those turbos.

 

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Ideally just want to make one trip back. Not go in, test without filter, no success, come home, buy more shit etc. 

The workshop is small so cars cannot sit there waiting for parts and given it's a 2wd dyno means front drive shaft out each time. 

Thanks for the input, seems the earls and similar are cheap enough anyway. 

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14 minutes ago, Kinkstaah said:

I don't think it's the case of the filter being clogged so much, as much as what GTSBoy said, the actual filter itself is restrictive and it can't flow that much fuel in it.

This^^

Dan think of it like an exhaust, you can run 350kw through a 3" exhaust but you are not doing yourself any favours. Just bin it and put a good filter in and never worry about it again. 

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Arent std efi filters 10micron. Hell my fuel pick up is 15micron!

 

Not sure I would chase better flow thru less filtration. I ended up going twin bosch OE 10micron filters that have M14 female threads. At the end of the day if you want filtration and flow its a matter of surface area...also with E85 and cheap filters you may just want to monitor it that they dont collapse due to any  resin/glue bonding they may use in the filter element letting go in an E85 application. Part of the reason I went OE Bosch as there is loads of experience with E85. Ryco etc is probably fine but finnily enough I see oil pressure differences when going from Ryco oil filter to OE Nisan oil filter so I guess there is something in them

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  • 2 weeks later...

So, I think this may also be a problem also? 

While removing crap form the car to get into the tank again, I had a light bulb moment and checked the wiring I used for the pump vs the Walbro specs. 

The roll of wire was bought from Jaycar when questioned what I'd need for a fuel pump etc. 

As you can see on the specs @ 13.5volts, this pump wants more than the 15amp rating of the wiring. I assume this would mean the pump is not able to draw the current it needs? or does it simply draw the current and slowly burn out the wiring? 

Walbor specs here: http://walbrofuelpumps.com/walbro-f90000267-fuel-pump-e85

20170607_215418.jpg

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How long is the run? Because there will be a significant voltage drop if it's 16GA from the engine bay to the fuel pump.

Small wire, higher resistance, more heat, energy loss during transmission (well not lost, it's converted into heat - laws of conservation of energy).

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thinner wire has a higher resistance, meaning a greater voltage drop over its length. the power loss in that drop in voltage gets dissipated as heat in the wire.

I'd be using 12-14 AWG wire, if its a short run 14 is ok, if its long use 12. 

A 460 at 75+psi & 14v is up around ~20 amps of current.

also of note, the bulkhead pipes in the R34 fuel tank hat are plastic and appear to be a bit thinner than the R32-33 hat. might be an optical illusion, but they look a bit smaller to my eye.

Edited by burn4005
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