Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Originally posted by GTS-t VSPEC

Yes I know a few people who went the same path, and while they are a good clutch I do not think they will hold up under the punishment of 300+rwhp. They are however very easy to drive, but my twin plate only took a couple of days of getting used to. Although second-hand twin-plates are becoming more common they are quickly snapped up, due to most people frying the factory one.

See'ya:burnout:

a bit off the topic..for those second clutch, normally only some % left, can they be re-condition? or rebuilt? Looking for one NISMO and OS clutch..thanks.

  • Replies 97
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Yes the name brand clutches can be rebuilt, we have had it done to a number of clutches including OS Giken and Nismo. They come out feeling like brand new, and will often save you a bit of money over buying a new clutch.

See'ya:burnout:

Many of the multi plate clutches can be rebuilt but they are not cheap to get done. Would only be worth buying something cheap.

I thing extreme are starting to make their own twin/tripple plate clutches as well, a lot cheaper than imported stuff.

Originally posted by GTS-t VSPEC

It is good that some Australian companies are starting to provide performance parts in competition to the Japs, lets hope they make a good tough clutch for the skylines.

See'ya:burnout:

Totally agree, the Japs do what they do well, there is no doubting that, but I do believe that australia can do as well or better, and they regularly do.

Originally posted by benm

but I do believe that australia can do as well or better, and they regularly do.

...only that it still costs the same price.

In some cases yes, but in others no. I got an aussie made coola, 2PSI drop at 650hp cost $800. Also $400 for a custom built dump and front pipe, hand finished and blemish free (have you ever had a good look inside a HKS one?)

Besides, I know where I would sooner spend my money - in Austalia.

IMHO

Steve,

I totally agree with you, aslong as the product is as good then I want to spend my money in Aus. I think the market here is starting to catch on to the growing demand for performance parts, with many Australian parts now being used overseas aswell.

I don't see the point of spending twice the amount of money on exactly the same product just cause one is a Jap brand, compare them on performance/reliability.

See'ya :burnout:

Originally posted by GTS-t VSPEC

It is good that some Australian companies are starting to provide performance parts in competition to the Japs, lets hope they make a good tough clutch for the skylines.

See'ya:burnout:

I agree completely - which is one reason I chose EMS for my ECU (plus is heaps more flexible than others). Also , I decided today to get a Australian Manufactured 6 puck clutch - should be as good or better than a Nismo or OSG one, and half the cost (installed). Actually when I come to think of it, out of all my mods, I didn't buy one new Jap branded part.

Cat = USA

Dump & Front = Aussie

Turbo = Aussie re-engineered (Org Jap)

Injectors = Aussie re-engineered

ECU = Aussie

Plenum = Aussie Custom

Surge = Aussie Custom

Fuel Pump = Bosche (German right)

Catch Can = Aussie Custom

Clutch = Aussie

brendanf,

Once you have had some time with the clutch then let us know what you think of it. It will be good to have a list of Aussie manufacturers that can compete with the Japs.

I tend to get alot of my stuff custom made here, the workmanship is very good and generally much cheaper.

See'ya:burnout:

  • 4 months later...

Clutch is good - quite happy with it - shudders a bit when you take off up a hill, but I understand this is normal because of the grip of the pucks & kevlar.

Re Mods: I didn't get to try them out to full potential before the motor lost compression in two cylinders. (Don't know why yet cause the head hasn't come off yet) Suffice to say that the compression is so bad (60) that we all know what is the problem -What caused this could be a number of things, as we all know.

Right now the car is in my Garage, waiting for me to save up for a full re-build with forgies, strengthend rods/bolts, o'ringed/dipped block, the best bearings I can get, maybe some head work, maybe a metal (or composite) head gasket and definitely cams - AIM = 300rwkw (reliable, safe, strong, bulletproof kilowatts)

When the engine is out, I'll be getting the injectors tested/flowed cause what happened, shouldn't have (in my opinion) - I was only running 14PSI at time failure.

So ATM I am reading lots and lots about what others have done and are doing in terms of engine rebuilds - Also happy to take suggestions/recomendations from the forum on what I should/shouldn't do to attain my bulletproof 300rwkw. The only other mods I had done since this thread is a 1:1.5 adjustable fuel pressure regulator.

Cheers,

Thanks Tony, Your 100% right - I was devesated when the engine went - esp after spending a lot of time & $$ on it and not actually getting to enjoy it at the track - Plus, so soon after the mods - (I even tried to sell it as is, I was sooo pissed off) But I'm over it now, and am looking on the positive side.

1) Will have more reliable power after the next stage

2) Have plenty of time to research all the right moves

Thanks to everyone for the help so far - there is more to come ...... I even changed my avatar to refelct my new found enthusiasm.... he he :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That ring thing is interesting how it's holding everything together 
    • Hey guys. I have a 400R on its way to Australia from Japan currently and have a few questions I’m hoping others may be able to help with.   Wondering if anyone here has had any luck getting the Sat nav unit to work in Australia!? Assuming the Stereo is as simple as a band expanded and tv won’t work?  Seeing as they’re based off a Q50 which is Aus delivered is there any way to link that system to the nav? Nav modules and head unit are different part numbers and appear slightly different at the rear with plug ins etc. can I put my xtrail sd card into the rv37 and will that convert the maps or update to Australian? Has anyone got any advice here?     also has anyone fitted the factory remote start and Security system once it’s landed in Australia? I put an enquirey to Nissan Japan in via a third party, and they suggested it needs a Nissan Japan dealers device to setup and couldn’t guarantee if one here could do it or not. They can supply and I can physically fit it but to setup I would need a dealers device. Any information here would be appreciated also. I’ve seen one here with it fitted already prior to leaving Japan at a dealer/inporter, so clearly passes compliance and works when fitted Japan and doesn’t need changing here.      also, does the tyre inflation sensors work here? Does anything change with them when the vehicle arrives? Where are they actually situated? I’ve read they have batteries and they need to changing at times and seems like resetting involves the nav system?    any help here would be appreciated and any other aust specific information to help would be great. Looking forward to see what the current generation skyline is like and eager to see how many of the gadgets can be utilised here.  Thanks in advance 
    • Do need to take it with a pinch of salt. One of the adapter failures, they clearly had setup issues with the flywheel.  One of the slipping ones I spoke to and it was pretty clear the throwout was riding, rather than fix, just swapped to a new clutch.    These clutches are being put in anything from 5k offroad 4x4 beaters, GR yaris, 500hp commodores to 1200hp barra monsters. Bound to be some issues in some of them when they are not a simple bolt in affair due to the changes in height.    There is a lot going on in this picture and unless I did the job myself no way to tell what really happened. 
    • I did this mod in 2019  You just have to modify the top bracket of the ABS/TC/Fuel Pump Control ECU so it sits more upright and closer to the back seat and run a good quality positive battery lead from the engine bay, the negative lead i just bolted down to the body in the boot.
    • Damn... Not the feedback I want to hear.
×
×
  • Create New...