Jump to content
SAU Community

Misfire on boost under load

gach2

By gach2,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

gach2 Proficient

gach2

Posted
Posted
Misfire on boost under load

Hi

Just fired up my car after 2 years (new fluids and battery and starts and idles fine). After warming it up reved it a bit in neutral and its all sweet.

Now took it for a spin up the road and whenever im about to hit boost the car misfires (well maybe not misfire but splutters)

Car has spitfire coil packs and from what i believe its not ignition related (boost would still kick in and it would misfire in neutral but i could be wrong with the skyline)

Also fuel filter and fuel pump was replaced around 2 months prior to garaging the car. Feels smooth when revved in neutral.

 

Any ideas what it could be and also what i should check

 

thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Steve85 Mentor

Steve85

Posted
Posted

My car did something very similar to this. It turned out to be the igniter. If it gets worse and worse as it gets hotter keep the igniter in mind. Good luck!

 

Edit; I'd probably leave this to last to check. Start with plugs, then the usual suspects, then maybe igniter.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

It's all the possible things.

Could definitely be coils.  Splitfires aren't magical - they age like anything else.  Coils will usually run the engine fine and misfire on boost.

Could be a dirty or otherwise wrong injector.  Lean misfire when the fuel rates rise.

Could be the igniter if you have one.

Could be the fuel pump is soft.  Or the FPR might be stuck open and it's going lean from that.

Etc.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

Why would you hesitate to get Splitfires?  That's nonsense talk.  They are the best option other than OEM, likely to be 99% as good.  Even OEM from Nissan is not as good as the original coils that were put in back in the 90s.

All I was saying when I said " Splitfires aren't magical - they age like anything else" is exactly what I wrote.  They aren't immune from the same issues as any other coil, meaning they can have the odd faulty one from new, and they WILL age.  I have a high load miss in my car right now - have to try to diagnose it soon.  It could be my Splitfires.....they've been in the engine for years, one or more of them might be going off.  Doesn't mean that they are not a good coil.

And, for those willing to do a little more work, there are plenty of other coils you could put in your car.  LS2 coils, Yaris coils, and dozens of others.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
-S- Community Regular

-S-

Posted
Posted
Why would you hesitate to get Splitfires?  That's nonsense talk.  They are the best option other than OEM, likely to be 99% as good.  Even OEM from Nissan is not as good as the original coils that were put in back in the 90s.
All I was saying when I said " Splitfires aren't magical - they age like anything else" is exactly what I wrote.  They aren't immune from the same issues as any other coil, meaning they can have the odd faulty one from new, and they WILL age.  I have a high load miss in my car right now - have to try to diagnose it soon.  It could be my Splitfires.....they've been in the engine for years, one or more of them might be going off.  Doesn't mean that they are not a good coil.
And, for those willing to do a little more work, there are plenty of other coils you could put in your car.  LS2 coils, Yaris coils, and dozens of others.


Well yes you're right. There are arguably one of the best to restore power/issues based on price & quality compared to oem ones. The oem ones lasted about a decade or more. .. just wished the splitfires were built to last longer than oem that's all lol ;) but then again it's already priced cheaper than oem ... meh. ..

Link to comment
Share on other sites
gach2 Proficient

gach2

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Noob question but would all these things mentioned go wrong while the car is garage? Car was not even turned over 12 months prior to this issue.

Was thinking of draining the fuel and maybe replace the filter first then maybe fpr and then move onto plugs - coils - ignitor

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Much less twat-tastic. CF wheels are too garish for civilised use.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      From there, as the manual says....assembly is the reverse of disassembly, no tricks worth mentioning Much better (for me)
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      In my case, the standard wheel I had was in good condition but the buttons had more wear, so I swapped them across from the original wheel from the car. The plastic rear cover is held on by 4 tabs, and once the wiring is removed you can get access to 2 screws on each side the hold the buttons in From there I just swapped the wiring over. What was interesting is the standard style wheel is 2.0kg but the carbon fibre one is 50% heavier at 2.9kg. It even has a weight inside the wheel at the top to make up for some sort of imbalance in the design. weird
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Once the airbag is off, to remove the steering wheel.... Undo the 2 plugs into the clock spring, and the horn connector from it's clip. Hit the 19mm nut with a rattle gun (preferably) or if you don't' have one, you probably want an assistant to hold the wheel in place while you use a breaker bar to undo the nut Then, screw the nut back on 3 turns, and pull the wheel sharply towards you. If that doesn't work hit it medium force with a rubber mallet on either side, or possible behind if you can get there. If that all fails (it shouldn't!) you might need a steering wheel puller
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So, to next task....the carbon fibre steering wheel was either an expensive factory option or a chinesium special. Either way, I don't like either the flat bottom or thick ring style, so it had to go So...to remove the steering wheel.... First, disconnect battery negative and stomp on the brake pedal for a few seconds. Then, remove the small circular covers on each side of the wheel's rear surround to uncover the airbag clips. You need to push something like a flat bladed screw driver through, to push the steel clip inwards and pull the side of the airbag forward. Once you've done the easy side, same on the centre console side. You can see the tab you are shooting for circled in red Then, disconnect the horn spade connector and for the yellow airbag plug you need to get something small under the black locking tab to pop it out, then the connector releases......airbag is off  
×
×
  • Create New...