Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all

 

Finishing up my rb30/25det build and realized my rb30 doesnt have a thread for this hard line from the head. The engine is in with pretty much every other line and stuff bolted to it (pic from google) so wouldnt really care to take it out and strip apart to tap a hole... Added a pic of my block when it was on a stand, feeling quite stupid :D What is this line for and is it absolutely needed?

 

Thanks alle872bf370d76aab69ef79be3014fe322.jpg9ac3b32c23edf50c521a3b40bc6c6d0f.jpg

After thinking about it for a few moments I think these are my options:

 

1. Tee the head drain to the turbo oil return. Worried if the factory sized drain would be enough for my hx40 AND the head return though...

 

2. Drill and tap a thread to the block. How to prevent metal pieces from getting inside the engine though?

 

3. Take the sump out and drill and weld a fitting for the drain.

 

I was hoping to start my car next weekend for the first time in 2,5 years but dont really want to take shortcuts now that will haunt me in the future. Which would you recommend doing, keeping in mind the engine is in the car? I'm kinda leaning towards 3. If I take the exhaust off and lift the engine as much as I can without disconnecting the gearbox can I get the sump (rb25 oem sized sump) out and back in? That way I could clean the sump and no metal bits would get inside the engine.

 

When I do get the Engine running I will run it on idle to normal temp and then do my first oil change if that changes anything.

 

Other ideas? Thanks

 

 

Is the HX40 ball bearing? Do you have an oil restrictor in the turbo oil feed line?

If both answers are yes then just tee it in to the turbo drain line. And the easiest way to take the sump off is to lower the crossmember while keeping the engine in place so you have access to all the bolts.

Is the HX40 ball bearing? Do you have an oil restrictor in the turbo oil feed line?

If both answers are yes then just tee it in to the turbo drain line. And the easiest way to take the sump off is to lower the crossmember while keeping the engine in place so you have access to all the bolts.

Nope its journal bearing with an3 feed line without a restrictor. The return just meets the turbos demands.

Thanks for the tip with the sump. Its starting to sound like the best option
  • 1 month later...

I am also in this boat. I notice rb26's don't seem to have this drain and others have blocked it off. Is it really required with a sump breather?
I am also worried if I plumb it into my turbo drain it will restrict the flow too much. I have a precision 6870.

2 minutes ago, czy18e said:

I am also in this boat. I notice rb26's don't seem to have this drain and others have blocked it off. Is it really required with a sump breather?
I am also worried if I plumb it into my turbo drain it will restrict the flow too much. I have a precision 6870.

Rb26 don't need it as it is a drain for the vct.

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The cross sectional area of a circular hole scales with the square of diameter. So a 2mm diameter hole is 4x the area of a 1mm hole. Not double. The 1.7mm hole is nearly 3x the area of a 1mm hole. You do not need restrictors at both ends of the oil supply line. If you have new, additional restrictors at the turbo end, that you did not have before, then you do not need a restrictor at the inlet end.
    • Hi all. Been a while but things are moving along. I just have something that I am wondering about. Since I will use OEM turbo oil pumbing, I got myself a new bolt, the one that goes into the engine block oil feed. As I recall (and see visually) this bolt comes restricted with I think a 1.7mm hole? Not quite sure but it was something around that size. The turbos have 1mm restrictor bolts installed, as necessary due to ball bearings and my higher oil pressures. Can I now just use that OEM bolt with the 1.7mm hole in for the engine block or will this actually be too much oil flow restriction and I have to drill it out first? In my head it would make sense for the bolt to be at least 2mm wide as both turbos take "1mm of oil flow". Do let me know if my logic is flawed here, I just want to make sure I don't kill my turbo bearings with too little oil. Don't know if I can trust the saying I read somewhere that ball bearing turbos essentially only need an oil mist
    • There are several aftermarket options available, from not-too-painful moneyhttps://justjap.com/collections/driveshafts-bearings/products/d-max-reinforced-replacement-rear-driveshaft-set-fits-nissan-s13-s14-s15-r32-r33-r34-c35 and  https://justjap.com/products/crank-motorsport-billet-rear-axles-fits-nissan-skyline-r33-gts-t-r34-gt-t?srsltid=AfmBOorQk4xkGUa98kO7v2ePLUiNt-HRrM2AwWNw9mbSIVE1ujBVwY__, all the way up to The Driveshaft Shop https://driveshaftshop.com/skyline-cv-axles/
    • Yeah based on old XRC5964S specs, it looks to be roughly GTX3576R sized? But this 5964S compressor will flow 90lb airflow somewhat similar to the compressors in both the GTX3584RS or G35-1050.. I fully expected the 0.64 rear A/R to choke up top - seems way too small from typical convention - but these are seemingly beneficial over the prior 0.82 results.. Be interesting to see if he comments on the EFR question in that thread - he mentioned in a prior video that BW EFR's were the "cats pajamas 10 years ago", but by the sounds of things all his kits have been using Xona for quite a while now.
    • Yeah it’s still got the oem manual gearbox and clutch, only kinda mods are a blow off valve, coil overs, and a aftermarket intercooler. Also had it for about 2 months now with a lovely midnight purple paint on it.
×
×
  • Create New...