Mild modded S1 RB25, please check my parts list for completeness

[hjtrbo]

Mild modded S1 RB25, please check my parts list for completeness

Hey again,

Nearing the end of the shopping list for engine.  

Would a couple of the experienced members here mind commenting on what parts should be purchased in addition to what is listed? If it isn't listed then it's still OEM. All listed parts have already been purchased.  

Chasing 250+rwkw through a RB25 box. Base engine was an unmolested R33 S1 RB25DET with 120,000km on the front half clock

Bottom end

• Exedy HD button clutch (NSK-7056HDB)
• Exedy lightweight flywheel (NF01)
• Crank balance
• Block acid dipped, checked, decked, honed & frost plugs
• ACL main / rod bearings (7M2394HSTD / 6B2960HSTD)
• ARP main stud kit (202-5403)
• Manley H beam rods (14028-6)
• CP pistons (SC7307)

Head, Intake & Exhaust

• Cometic MLS head gasket 1.3mm (C4318-051)
• ARP head stud kit (202-4301)
• Franklin Cams - Stage 5 Re grind (Adv 272°, @050" 205°, Lift 330")
• Franklin Cams - Valve springs
• HKS timing gear exhaust side (22004-AN002)
• 550cc Injectors (Can't remember what brand they are)
• Greddy front facing plenum (13522316) with standard RB25 throttle body
• Flea bay 600 x 300mm intercooler
• 2.5" alloy intercooler piping
• Plumb back BOV
• Factory turbo hi-flowed (Biago internals & housing machine, don't know flow specs)
• 3" Straight through exhaust into Turboflow resonator (Cats still to be sorted)

ECU

• Link G4 Storm (launch control, anti lag, spare I/O, can bus)

Fuel

• Surge tank
• Bosch 044 pump

There are some obvious omissions such as oil pump & cooler, water pump,  harmonic balancer. The plan was to leave those parts as OEM.

Lads & ladies, again, I only ask for comments from people who are experienced with regard to parts that should be added to this list.

[Ben C34]

Don't build an engine and add cams only to use a highflowed turbo

[GeeDog]

A couple of things that I can see:

1. While the crank is being done, get an extended oil pump drive collar fitted. You probably also want the bearing journals linished or machined as needed. You can also get the plugs drilled and tapped, and replace with grub screws, so the oil channels can be cleaned out. (or you can buy a crankshaft with all this work already done - ask me where).

2. While the block is being machined, get the oil return channels drilled larger. Find out if the cylinders need to be re-bored before ordering pistons.

3. Don't buy 550cc injectors - go straight to ID1000's and never have to upgrade them again.

4. Whatever you think it will cost - double it.

[hjtrbo]

@Ben C34 yes you are right. The build direction changed half way through. The build has been a slow process, just getting stuff done as the cash and time comes up. The turbo will be the limiter in the final power output and may need to be changed as the tune works away from the base values. 

 

@GeeDog I'm going to need to be educated here. My engine builder has extensive experience with V8 engines, however I believe this to be his first RB build, so he will not know the little tricks that need to be done.

        1a. Extended oil pump drive collar? I'm still on the factory oil pump. Is this still needed, or is it to future proof me if I upgrade the oil pump?

        1b. Never heard of changing to grub screws? Why do people get this done? Benefits?

        2a. Return oil channels drilled larger? Got me buggered there... Education please?

        2b.Piston to bore clearance already checked and within spec. Cylinders measured up sweet, just given light hone. Standard size pistons were ordered

        3. Already bought the injectors. I'll unfortunately have to suck it and see. You can say I told you so in a little bit

        4. Will be close to $70k by the time brakes, cage and paint is done. You are so right. I originally budgeted $25k. Next time I see a car for sale that in bone stock factory form is only worth $20k, but it's sale price is $60k and it had $90k spent on it, it's a bargain for the new owner.  

2b, 3 & 4 can be put to bed. 

Edited June 17, 2017 by hjtrbo

[hjtrbo]

OK, just found this to help out with a few of the questions raised from my above post. 

I'll pass this on to the builder for him to follow up.

[KiwiRS4T]

Ideally you would get an engine builder who is experienced with  RB engines but if you show him the above he should know what is being suggested.

For the amount of money and work I would want at least north of 300RWKW and so a better turbo is indicated. You could sell your (probably) old school injectors and the turbo and get ID1000s and a more modern turbo.

A good tune is going to cost around $1000 so you may as well try to get your set-up right first time. The throttle body will be fine but you will need an adapter plate for the Greddy manifold and a longer throttle cable.

If you are going to run a cat get a 5in Venom

[GeeDog]

Holy shit batman - $70K. Is this a daily driver, a dedicated track car, or something in between?

I suggest you bite the bullet now & upgrade at least the injectors. As above - you can sell the ones you have. Did you find the answers about the extended oil pump collar & grub screws in the crank?

Edited June 18, 2017 by GeeDog