Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 gtst Daily

33easy
 Share

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...
Dale FZ1 Veteran

Dale FZ1

Posted
Posted

The development path you're on looks well thought out, and should be proving cost effective and fun.

Look at a HICAS lock bar, and a 1.5 or 2 way diff centre next.  Makes a massive difference to handling and power down capabilities.

  • Like 1
33easy Contributor

33easy

Posted
  • Author
Posted
10 hours ago, Dale FZ1 said:

Look at a HICAS lock bar, and a 1.5 or 2 way diff centre next.  Makes a massive difference to handling and power down capabilities

The lock bar is definitely on my list, any recommendations? And what does a 1.5/2 way diff centre do?

vxsr33 Proficient

vxsr33

Posted
Posted
The lock bar is definitely on my list, any recommendations? And what does a 1.5/2 way diff centre do?
Go with a Hicas eliminator kit if you can. The lock bar can still develop a bit of play i believe. 1.5/2 way allows you to transmit equal torque between both rear wheels and will give you a lot more traction. Makes the car more predictable aswell. Google is your friend.
  • Thanks 1
GeeDog Experienced

GeeDog

Posted
Posted
7 hours ago, vxsr33 said:

Go with a Hicas eliminator kit if you can. The lock bar can still develop a bit of play i believe

The lock bar won't have any play, but it only replaces the Hicas steering rack, and still uses the stock tie rod ends & ball joints. This is where the play usually develops. An eliminator replaces these with new arms & bushes.

vxsr33 Proficient

vxsr33

Posted
Posted
The lock bar won't have any play, but it only replaces the Hicas steering rack, and still uses the stock tie rod ends & ball joints. This is where the play usually develops. An eliminator replaces these with new arms & bushes.
I don't mean the lock bar itself, i mean the hicas tie rods can develop some play in them.
Elim kit seems to be the better option imo, but lock bar is easy to install and easily reversible.
Both of my hicas tie rods had play in them so it was more cost effective to install a delete kit.
33easy Contributor

33easy

Posted
  • Author
Posted
On 11/9/2017 at 2:02 PM, vxsr33 said:

Elim kit seems to be the better option imo, but lock bar is easy to install and easily reversible.

Thanks for the info guys, I would probably go lock bar just to see if I like it (cuz its reversible) and then sort out an eliminator kit later.

As for the diff that would probably be further down the road, as right now she's just a street car :)

So I got the new bar on... bad news is it isn't colour matched. Will be a little while before I can get it back to the painter to get it sorted. I like the overall look though, should look good when I get the GTR wing on.

newbar.jpg

  • 1 month later...
33easy Contributor

33easy

Posted
  • Author
Posted

So about a month after I buy my fuel pump brand new, it decides to commit honourable seppuku. Was easy enough to replace as I had another walbro 255 lying around. Reused the same wiring and everything so its definitely the pump! Pretty strange for a pump to die brand new like that but shit happens I guess ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ 

I also had to siphon out some fuel as the tank was full and I didn't want to get everything saturated. Found out that siphoning with a garden hose is HARD and P98 tastes terrible... :7_sweat_smile: i  would recommend replacing the pump when you have half a tank or less.

Also attended an SAU event which was a cruise up Putty Road from Windsor to Singleton. I had a great day and was really happy with how the car performed :)

Fuelpumpcollage.thumb.jpg.87add5422267ae4abbaa27091725365a.jpg

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • weikleenget
      R32 GTR clutch master cylinder adapters

      By weikleenget · Posted

      I replaced the whole clutch line with the chase bays braided hose, I think it removes that loop, is it the short hose that comes immediately off the slave or is there a drawing in the manual to find what you’re referring to? It was just re-bled when I upgraded to the nismo slave, old slave worked fine but I thought that might help, didn’t change a thing. It’s like the first half of the pedal is pushing air and then when it finally actuates the master the friction zone is tiny. Makes it practically impossible to launch the car
    • Kinkstaah
      MLR's Bogan cruise ship

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Yep, that was one of the things we learned fast in the past with our MX5. When you drive with the top down, you are effectively standing out in the sun, 100% of the time, and not getting in any shade (because roads aren't shaded generally!). Just like standing out in the middle of a field on a sunny 27C day is a bit of a bad plan, so is sitting in a MX5 without sun protection.
    • The Bogan
      MLR's Bogan cruise ship

      By The Bogan · Posted

      I also just ordered some Frankenstein bolts and side mounts to fit a hard top Just in case I do find one, basically so it doesn't need to be fixed to the car with only the front latch.......and then gaffa tape to keep it in place for the RTN journey from wherever I get it
    • The Bogan
      MLR's Bogan cruise ship

      By The Bogan · Posted

      If your temps are fine now, you probably won't have any issues with where your vents are as they don't look right up at the windscreens high pressure area, so any differences when giving it the beans for extended happy laps would be minimal, but, they should vent heaps when stuck in traffic  Much like how that reverse cowl on my SS let "visible" heat out when stationary, but, because it was basically at the windscreen my coolant temps on the Hwy actually raised because air was being fed into it at speed (110kph), to only come back down to around 90° when I got off the Hwy And your 100% correct about the NC currently not needing vents, but, if I was to add a turbo, and a oil cooler and intercooler in front of the condenserand radiator, and then take it to the track???? It is apparently a recommend requirement if I don't want to worry about coolant or oil temp issues, but, any of the above are possible scenarios, over time As it sits now, with the triple pass radiator and stock air conditioning system, I have absolutely no issues with either temps or air conditioning efficiency, I've been basically daily driving thie car for the last month, both on the Hwy, and peak hour, bumper to bumper traffic, but, that's pretty much expected from basically a standard engine  Talking about no issues daily driving, it was 39° the other day and I was sitting in bumper to bumper traffic on the M5 and then M7, with the top down, and with the air conditioning blowing nice cold air on my feet, balls, and face, well, there was one issue, my head and arms got pretty sun burnt Note to self: leave a hat and sunscreen in the car for such days 🤣
    • sonicii
      Mechanic in Victoria

      By sonicii · Posted

      I would agree, unless you need something specific to the HV motor/battery side repaired or investigated, any mechanic will be able to perform normal services, but if you prefer, maybe look for a mechanic who regularly services/repairs Nissans, the VQ engines are pretty common in the Nissan lineup.  Sorry, I can't make any suggestions, I don't live in Vic.
×
×
  • Create New...